lowandy

Well on closer inspection i dont have coilpacks! Haha so just gonna replace the HT leads, anyone recommend a place that sells 8.0mm leads?

Would it be best to test the HT Leads for resistance or is it only when its under load that the leads become faulty? Where would you recommend getting new parts from? Not much on trademe in the ways of coilpacks or ht leads so was thinking Supercheap auto for Boch leads

Got a forester with a V4 sti motor and when giving it the jandal it seems to jerk like the boost is cutting then coming back on quickly. Basically only does it under load e.g boosting it, planting it in 3rd gear when cars going 20kmh. From what i know about nissans is that its mostly due to the old coilpacks. Just thought id double check that thats what is could be and also any place inparticular i can get some new ones? Would you guys recommend new or secondhand? Cheers

Orange AFM is Sti? What kind of injectors do they have?

Hey guys Im looking at buying a new car and found a Forester with a Sti v4 motor in it. Any way i can identify that the motor in the engine bay is actually an V4 STI motor? I viewed it today and it has a purple sticker AFM (could be old one from forester motor?), couldnt quite read what turbo it has and the owner didnt know what turbo it had either, has STI intercooler. Any help appreciated

Let me know how well the R180 holds up to the abuse

You can weld the centre diff and also cut the output shaft on the centre diff which spins the front diff to (maybe) decrease power loss. Also if you do that then you dont have to remove the front axles because they are basically there for show now - plus you wont get picked up on a WOF for not having them in.

I got a N/a ej25 rwd bg9 and i can say your axles will last you alot longer if you slide it rather than dropping the clutch from a standstill. Shock loading is what kills axles real quick. Mine felt alot more responsive going from awd auto to rwd manual so would probably be worth your time and effort to give it a go. Just remember if you snap an axle and your rear diff isnt welded, then you wont be going anywhere haha

Yes early style diff with one axle longer than the other and i think keeps snapping the shorter axle. Hmmm so you reckon they are stonger because the axles are equal length or are they thicker or something else?

So ive snapped 2 left rear axles in the past month (rwd) but what i find weird is its only the left ones that are breaking.... Whats the reason for that? Also i snapped my first axle on the hub spline and where it goes into the diff Then i snapped my second one into 4 pieces. Any other rwd subis having the same problems?

Install a new left rear axle after i snapped my last one into 4 pieces on sunday

So the next best thing would be a 2 way diff or something of the likes?

I have removed the stub axles from my rs diff and want to install into my bg5. Ive heard there are different variations of axles so wanting to know which will fit. So looking to buy some axles aswell

Cheers mate that worked mint

So i brought an rs diff with the stub axles. The question now is how do i remove these stubs so i can use my male axles? Any help would be appreciated

You bleed the clutch correctly?

Ive removed it completely for the time being to see what difference that makes. Still not sure about the heater core but might just leave it as it is since its not causing any problems

So today i pulled the thermostat out and redid the coolant. Pros- Doesnt overheat anymore = suspect faulty thermostat? At idle with heater on max it seems to blow coldish but once driving the air heats up....any ideas? When i first got the car around 2 years ago the heater was bypassed already so that could mean that somethings wrong with the heater

Yea mate flushed from the top rad hose, then from the hose going into the heater aswell as just the radiator. And flushed them all for roughly 5 mins jst to be sure. I dont know if this is something to note but i flushed from the top rad hose and was flowing out the waterpump alot but then i started the car and left the hose on there was less water coming out the waterpump aswell as water was flowing back out the top rad hose-- if that makes any sense to anyone?

So i put the thermostat in boiling water and it opened up but then seemed to close after maybe 5 mins when the water was still hot. (Didnt know temp because thermometer was working properly) I put everything back in and tried to bleed the cooling system. It was sitting at normal operating temp with the heater on max but still blowing coldish air - which i thought was suspect. Temp continued to rise slowly above half. Had the radiator cap off and touched the water and was cold but top rad hose was hot + bottom hose cold. So thermostat not opening correct? or possibly thinking about it now it could be water pump since its not pumping hot water into the heater core? I will remove the thermostat and run it without it to see if thats the problem

So ive got a 1 year old waterpump and thermostat from subaru, replaced the radiator cap but its still got a weird problem. Ill be driving around fine then the temp will start to rise so i pull over and the overflow bottle is overflowing and the radiator cap is cold. Im suspecting a block somewhere in the system? Im currently flushing it the block with a hose and have removed the radiator to flush it aswell. Testing the thermostat in boiling water and its opening fine. Also when flushing the radiator there was some oily residue in the water which could be headgasket leaking? Thanks

Yo nick from instagram correct? When i converted my bg9 it wouldnt start either so i connected a switch that would turn over the car since the key didnt work. i then wired the starter to the ignition. Thats my method to get around it

Ah i see. How much you looking for the diff?

So if they spin the same way is that a plated lsd?

might have wrong diff oil but from my memory i put in castrol lsd fluid, not sure which grade as it was a year ago. Might give it a go at changing the diff fluid in hopes to spin two wheels. What oil do you recommend?