sultan

Why did you even bother posting anything when you already know all the answers?

You've installed a boost tap or something, cranked up the boost until it makes funny noises, then think that pouring a bottle of shit in your gas tank will make it sweet? When you blow it up, I'm sure you'll tell all your mates how unreliable subarus are

Are you trolling or just a moron?

I would have thought moving weight forward would promote understeer

Has to rev it with a restrictor? Somethings not right

Yeah, the only difference between any of them is that the more expensive ones make your car go just a bit faster, so if you don't care about that so much, just go with cheapest available. Try diesel, its pretty cheap.

I had one of your bovs on a previous car. Think it had "show off valve" stamped on it?

But does surge at low pressure actually do any damage? I know of cars from factory that do it

If you can get a 150a minimum that can be manually switched off and you can make money on it at $40 delivered, I'm keen, otherwise ill just grab one from that trademe guy. Thanks either way

for any one interested, found these on TM http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=509571546

Cool thanks guys. I'll be wiring one in asap

i've seen up to 150a rated ones, i assumed they would trip pretty quick with 300+ amps going through. you've got the 100a one tintin?

check your voltage when car running, it might be different to the power circuit on my 94 wrx. it doesn't take too much power to run a car when driving. i'm not exactly sure how much, but say if it averaged 15ah, you'd be able to drive the car for around 2 hours before it depleted the battery. which could by why yours hasn't conked out yet if it does work the same as mine

Any one know where to get a circuit breaker capable of allowing the car to start with battery in the boot? Needs to be able to accept 0/2 gauge wiring

Be careful when the fuse pops because your alternator won't be charging the battery due to not being able to contact the check alternator light, or something

Seems a lot of effort to potentially make it worse

Fine for a drag car. Would be a disaster on the road

Pwr systems can, although expensive. I think there are better gains to be had for the money.

Now we're talking. I'd use two. One in the front for the front wheels, one in the rear for the rear wheels

Why?

180kw

Probably best to speak to an engine builder. Your question is extremely open ended. Are you going to remove and refit the engine yourself or do they need to charge you for that too? How did your engine fail? That may give some indication to what parts may be reusable. Do you want to use genuine parts, or aftermarket standard or performance? Are the heads ok and are you going to freshen them up? Going to do a new clutch at the same time? The answer to your question is $2000-$20000

Just build a 2.5. This all seems like a waste of time to me

Any vf turbo is an upgrade to a vf22 unless running 550+cc inj plus other fuel mods, computer, and tune, etc

same. rather spend money on something that actually makes a difference