marc

Whatd you leave off/un done? lol

Who knows only subaru lol guess cus it wasnt needed in factory form lol. Ive seen 236wkw form an ver8 sti on 1.4bar but more mods then just an exhaust.. not much too much more tho. FMIC, Fuel pump, rails and reg, intake pipe under mani nd thats it. STD afm and ECUTEK (once again torques dyno)

keen for another dyno day lol. I think it will be a reality check for a few . Never know tho lol. I agree wit TP Dyno being a good bench mark (very profesh about the runs and setup etc) STM would be mean but yeah not in aucks lol. As for power figures I agree thats some damn good numbers for the mods! Look at STM's recent RA-R run in the wellywood section and that managed 219.8wkw so 220 was about on the money and that isant a V7 lol. Better cams, better intake pipe, intake manifold, headers, turbo and yeah thats no stock exhaust in the dyno run clip but exact specs are un knowen...

Very phat Subaru indeed ;D

Dont put s*** in the radiator and as above no real solution but you can try what scoobydoo said but in my experence it doesnt take well to the crappy material suby side tanks are made of even with as lots of prior cleaning and scuffing the suface etc. There is a 2 pot type powder and catalyst mix stuff you can get for plastic repair but its bloody expensive and 95% of the time probbly wont hold it for 2 weeks at 14+psi coolant pressure! Go to pickapart for the cheepist option I can think of or park it up unless you want bigger issues later on

STI Type R and STI RA use bigger rear shafts and yes a larger diff too. Shafts from normal v1-6 sti wont work. Could still be a CV or wheel bearing as mentioned. If you say coming from specific side wouldnt think dif as that is central. Check wheel bearings ie if the hub has play 1st then go from there..

Yes I would. Just service on time and use good oil

Yeah or your plugs are blowing out. You using proper platnums in it or coppers? If coppers what gap?

there a whole brand new v10 carbon bonnet on trademe for 600 if thats any use to you Stephen :-\ lol.

Nope, JUST slides/fits out. I undo them with a cut down 17mm spanner I customed up one day lol. Some youl get without and some you wont get the angle unles you have a stubby spanner set. just undo the bolt til its touching the combelt covers then pull the oil feed line up with the banjo bolt still in it (should be enough to just slide out as all the thread should/will be out of the head when its undone back to the belt covers)

Difference between the 8 and 9 is abit but not a hell of alot! Both twin scroll etc but 9 has mini rear flares, slightly different door cards and center console (heater controlls) then the 5x114 stud pattern with larger bearinged hubs and some spec C suspension components fitted factory (arms). All in all not a hell of alot if you ask me. If you intend on doing track days or building the car up for a track car etc the difference is worth it but for a street car its not all that important unles you really like the interior or flares lol. JDM 2L V10 would be the go as mentioned but yeah your looking at a fair load more $$$!!

think I have a coil pack floating around if you think thats your prob

You would have to drill the return etc so not easy to do! id say complete GTB/RSK motorv . These tactics or wrx non sti are very common from the encounters ive had over the past. Just had another one last week and was a mint low kms std car with a "rebuild"!!

thoes numbers wont help you much. U need to look at bell housing bolt number, head intake mani pattern, rocker covers (possibly under them aswell depending on what the cam/rocker covers look like). also may need to look thru piston pin removal bung etc

Parts end up costly to do it ALL. Heck bought a auto tensioner only bout 2 days ago and had forgotten their price lol. $225+ GST retail at repco. 155+ @ repco with trade account. still got 4 idilers and a belt to go!!! Then thers cam and crank seals if your doing it ALL. Gets up there but ppl have said about right. Misus GDB was done by shop (cus of mechanical warranty) last year cost $1750 doing all cambelt stuff + plugs and engine oil,filter,coolant and a general check over.

yep fustrating and being rushed for time having to leave is bout right . Yep std PBR 230mm replacement STI clutch from BNT. Hopfully crack it tomoro with some peddle rod adjustment . Thasks for all you input once again guys and will let you know the outcome tomoro

Yeah what I thought as its not the clutch kit that was last in th car (come with the replacment V7 Sti shortblock from a mates crashed v5 Sti) one u got bits off funky. Ill try it tomoro and post my outcome hopfuly = ;D not lol. I hope the rod has enough ajustment in it lol. Yeah with car started in gear (otherwise cant get into gear) the car starts to move when you release the clutch like 5mm off the ground. Sounds like rod to me too ae. damn lack of time , fingers crossed

Yep and has like a downpipe looking 14mm headed bolt that goes thru it but pokes out quite far on the end that the nut is on.. So best to put that on the turbo side

Hey guys thanks for your input. The pin and fork are in correctly and the release bearing is "clipped" into the P Plate. I know this because yes It feels like the clutch is there from the peddle feel (semi light but def clutch feeling there) I bled system already and no go. Ah bolt suggestion is in the correct way . I used a big creasent on the top fo the clutch fork to manually opperate the leaver. when the clutch peddle is fully in if you pull on the creasent you can get about another 13mm travel and that allows you to get into gear (another person in car lol) and not easy to do manual version of hydrolic force lol. So therefor clutch and P Plate+ fork and pin must all be good really. Just yeah requireing more travel for some reason?!!? Will see what the rods got left for adjustment tomoro as I had to leave where the car is being stored at 630pm . Other then the rod being my problem any other ideas?? nah ae lol theres nothing left of a clutch system lol ??

Put motor back in my car today and now the clutch wont fully disengage! When the car is running you cant get it in gear. Turn it off goes in gear mint and you can start it but feel its still tryna drive! The thing is I couldnt remember which realease bearing came off the clutch kit that i put back in the car (bout 5kms old PBR one). Have tryed the obvious stuff like bled the clutch at the master and the fire wall with new fluid. I cant see it being the slave or the master as car was driving fine befor the engine was removed. Im going to try adjust the peddle clutch master rod under dash tomoro but just thoiught id ask if any ones seen any differences in pull clutch release bearings???????? Like just the length of the sleeve that has the circlip groove in it??? I havent to my knowledge!? Just an idea worth asking incase adjusting master rod doesnt help or its guna be box off time but would hopfuly not do that lol, just put the motor back in : lol

just the people with randm s*** that they dont know is common on trademe !! Wrecks for people tring to sell genuine stuff even for example the most common I see "Version 5 STI" and its a bloody 97 V4 STI lol. Just guessing and they dont know the dif i think!!! :-\ Ps was just waiting for some1 to get ripped with that first link but as mentioned its cheep so ohwell but yeah missleding for sureee

stoffa was refuring to the VALVE faces not the camshafts. the shafts have IN EX on them as per usual and thats it. The v5/6 Sti valves have somthing else written on the face. (cant member off the top of my head)

Super phat. Just needs to be a ver8 STI to begin not wrx . thn 6spd, brembos and twin scroll not to mention how it would haul!!

Prodrive STI 7 ;D. Bout as phat as a relitivly stock bug gets!!

one way to kill a comp wheel LOL