Treecrusher

Just went and had a look at it. It's actually a '97. Just like this one:

Cheers guys. I am trying to get them to just sell it as is. I am sure it is more hassle than its worth trying to get it back on the road. The thing would be lucky to be worth $4k on the road anyway. Think its a goner. Anyone want a de-registered '95 celica?

Anybody know how much it should cost to re-register a car that hasn't been registered for 12 momths? The car is a '95 Toyota celica and belongs to a friend of mine. I talked to VTNZ who quoted well over $1000. Is this correct can we get it done somewhere else cheaper. Cheer.

My mother always said if I had nothing nice to say I shouldn't say anything at all. Valuable piece of advice really.

Quote from auction: "beats STi wrx's and old evo's" and "selling as I've lost my licence " Both tell me this car has been thrashed hard. IMO I wouldn't care if it had a rebuild, it is a bag of problems for whoever ends up with it. Edit: then again I've just red your auction and it doesn't look as though it's been driven by a nanny either.

Is yours the '94/95 model right? if it is it will have the smaller rotors. The larger rotors were installed on the +'96 GTB legacy along with a lot of other "wrx sti" type parts. I think I have some pads for the smaller type in the garage. I will check in the morning for you.

I bought a set of a guy for $75, including tyres. God bless dumb arses that buy 18" wheels for $1 down and then think the factory wheels aren't worth anything. But, about $50 a rim is a good price + what ever the tyres are worth based on quality, wear etc.

Ok i'll give you 2 more minutes for the extra bolts Either way it's an easy job and probably easier than working on it in the car. Nothing like putting a gearbox back in by yourself with the car on axle stands, which is the hardest thing I have ever had to do on a Subaru. A close second would be replacing the rear diff bushes on a legacy, which saw the entire rear sub-frame out of the car.

I'm not going out to count...But there are only 6 bolts on a wrx that hold the diff in; two on the rear and then 4 on the front. On a legacy there are 4; two on the back and two on the front, that's the reason legacy's brake the rear bushes. Admittedly I am going of memory, but I have done it a few times over the years. I do all work by myself on my back in my garage as well. Was just a suggestion but each to their own. P.s. if there was enough beer/money in it I could be persuaded to have a bet on the 15min extraction.

S**t what do you do......It's only 4 bolts on the drive shaft, 6 bolts on the diff, two bolts on the hub carriers, pop the half shafts and you're done. If you've got the car jacked up already with the wheels off, I don't know how it would take you any longer. Now taking the rear sub-frame out by yourself to swap out the diff bushes is a different story.

Why not just take the diff out? It only takes 15 minutes and if you still can't get it out just swap the backplate out for another one. Job done.

It does seem to cheap. Hell I got 9k for my v5 last year and it had 40,000 more k's. Either it is the deal of the century or there is something dogy with it. Good luck to anyone thinking of buying it.

Or it's not an STi. Could be some Cheap arse HX20 with a water damaged conversion . I was a little wrong before, it actually comes up in the submodel field. Mine just says impreza in the model field then wrx sti in the submodel feild. More accurately you can tell by the chassis code. As the car sales can't forget/fake that.

loads of tell tail signs. But the most obvious ones are: black intercooler, 7,500 rpm redline and when you car jam it it comes up as a wrx ra. Not a wrx Sti ra as stated. Find an actual one on trade me and carjam it you will notice it specifies Sti in the model.

It's not actually an STi. Still a damn cheap v6 though especially with those k's. There may be more than meets the eye though.

And if you do get adjustables factor in a rebuild and cert. But that will work out around 4 x the price of kingies. Maybe look into the JDM brands. The last time I looked was a couple of years ago on a translated japanese website. You may find local importers now that can do them cheaper. But they will be a lot more than $400.

There are loads of JDM tuners that offer springs. And I would imagine that they are pretty good. But the price and availability always puts me off. Heck for the price of new HKS springs you could buy second hand set of adjustables of tard me

Yea I've always wanted to try a set of those, but the price has always put me off.

I have always used king springs and they have worked fine. They do sag a little over time but that only becomes a problem if you have a wanker wof man. (when I sold my v5 I told the guy I'd put a new wof on it. Long story short I had to buy a new set of rear king springs for it). I tried jamex springs once, in my bg gtb, they were s**t. I drove it straight down to mag and turbo and luckily they agreed to swap them out for king springs. I always thought of buying a JDM set of springs but when push came to shove I couldn't justify the additional cost.

I'm just messing with him. It is an easy job and you can't really mess anything up. You're not in any danger of blowing your engine up or anything. There will just be a time when you want to kick it really hard. As smurff says you will just need to be patient.

Don't worry, worst case scenario is you get the knock sensor off and you can't get it or the intercoller back on.........no biggie

This is only my opinion, so take it or leave it. But I think you are better off diagnosing it (either yourself or another fellow clubsub member) and then ring around asking for quotes. Once you find a good price tow or tailor your car to prevent further damage. That way you can get several prices and aren't at the mercy of the first shop you get to.

That's just what a legacy needs.......put the knock sensor further away from the problem area so it really munches itself before pulling ignition ;D

It is a pain in the arse to get off. Oner of the water pipes to the heater core goes straight across it. You need to remove the intercooler and I also clamped the water pipe and dis-connected it. Even then you will need a long extension, a "wobble bar" or knuckle and a lot of patience. I found getting the bolt started after replacing the sensor was the hardest part. Other than getting the f**king intercoller back on that is. Damn twin turbos, f**king it up for all of us since 1994

I don't want to prejudice any price Tony will give you as it will depend on your engines requirements. Needless to say, my mates engine ran a bearing and he agreed to only replace the bearings and required gaskets (after a big disclaimer). It was the cheapest bearing job I have ever heard of. Most mechanics would say everything needs to be done. The BH5 legacy in my signature; when I bought that the previous owner had been talked into a $5k rebuild by crow sport for the same problem! I know it's business, but come on. S**t like that is why subies have a bad name.