Stodart

Just got bill for full cam belt kit :-\ $500 ( water pump/thermo/gaskets seals belt idlers tensioner) through mechanic friend

oh dear! nice 1 to know ,don't know much about engine internals to be of any help coz never had to go there with mine and the only thing in the drive line I had to deal with was a new clutch. "We Are borg" is probably your man to talk to

12mm bolt plug drain on bottom of heads, one side in front of exhaust manifold, and the other side behind manifold this one difficult to get at coz of maniflold etc so use a good quality ring spanner/socket as they will be tight corroded in. this picture was of brumby (ea81) ea82 are similar from memory? bolt drain above exhaust manifold in pic. these two pics following are of drains on ej25, am assuming they're the same on all ej engines: ones next to oil filter and others next themostat housing and both at the front both with internal hex drives and much easier to get at, depending on car may need to remove splash covers 1st to expose.

yep will do pics and {we are borg} yes you're right forgot head controls are on air flow (my paranoia to have everything open for flushing)

underneath block, one for each cylinder bank they can be impossible to remove if corroded in couldn't remove ones on my brumby so left and flushed as best l could with radiator hoses off. ea engines have a bolt plug ej engines have a larger plug with a recessed hex drive. if can remove plug may need to use a piece of wire /pointed object to break " corrosion " thats formed there to drain cylinder banks.

yep for sure, l'm probably am going on a bit, sorry, :-[ subarus are prone to this and it upsets me to see so many come an early end because of this. l am speaking from experience having 2 out of the 5 subarus that l've owned with cooling system issues ie in particular a 10 year old 86 leone with 200k overheating with clogged/scaled heater core leaking on floor and radiator 85% blocked as well which had to be rodded out, managed to save it along with iron tight a chemi weld in the cooling system to fix heads/gaskets? as it was consuming water out exhaust. that car ran for another 13 years and 160k with no problems. All that is required is to flush out the whole cooling/heating system every 2 years, is to remove radiator hoses, drains for each cylinder bank, heater control on "hot" to flush its core, a garden hose will suffice, care in refilling for airlocks. l promise not to say anything more about this unless asked :-

just dreaming :-\

If the recommendations in the owners manual were followed ie flush cooling/heating system every 2 years, most of these issues would disappear

finally got it now thanks

hey thanks have been doing that per instructions from on here but keeps dropping out of profile when updates

na sorry not for sale was fathers so sentimental value as well

trying to post/attatch a pic to profile

Some history/clarification on Leones generation 1 71 to 79 (brumby 78 to 81) generation 2 79 to 84 (brumby 81 to 94) generation 3 84 to 88 then omega 89 to 94 then impreza since 92 http://www.wikien4.appspot.com/wiki/Subaru_Leone http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Impreza

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/196393_1014022527512_1834792_n.jpg

the reason why this happens is lack of maintenance!!!!!!!!!!!!!! if the heater core is blocked then its a good chance the the radiator is getting blocked as well. ie flushing radiator, removing 2 engine bank drains and heatercore every 2 years. l learn this from saving my 10 year old 86 leone with 200k which had a blocked heater core bypassed this with a piece of copper pipe then still overheating, flow tested radiator was 85% blocked tanks off and had to be physically rodded out by radiator specialist. so managed to save it no thanks to previous owners

was dreaming for a while as really liked my old 86 leones smoothness (electonic ign)+ 5spd as against harshness of ea81 + 4 spd in ute (dizzy+points) but would have to change diffs as well from 3.7 std with 4 spd to 3.9 for 5 spd. and the more thinking about it was going to be a nightmare ie probably nothing would match up in engine bay + wiring harness etc so put that one to sleep and sticking with the orginal

These manual wagons had 3.9 diffs (l have owned 2 of them) on 13" rims, as a point of interest my 01 out back runs the same speeds in gears but 4.1 on 16"

Hey good luck As themostat was removed it was probably over heating (as you mentioned rusty crap in radiator) so may have cracked heads / clogged/scaled radiator. l saved my 10 year old 86 leone wagon at 200k ie radiator 85% blocked (flow tested) thanks to previous owners lack of maintenance and had to be dismantled and rodded out, also water consumption out exhaust, suspected cracked head/s- gasket/s so tried iron tight (chemi weld) and that car ran for 13 more years and + 160k while l had it.

this is the best sound you could ever want unfortunately you'd have to import the kit from Crawford Performance in USA

do remember reading a car mag on sti 22b coupe in late 90's whether there are e any in nz at all? don't think that many were made

Ok nice 1 l'm not a mechanic so not sure on prices, waiting to get bill for my parts for 2001 outback due for 200k, got my parts thru mechanic friend at trade

Do it yourself if you've got some tools, either get a haynes repair manual (from Repco) youtube links helpful as well. (dohc) (sohc)Use factory genuine parts its not worth the risk taking shortcuts, or penny pinching at the risk blowing a motor particularly if its an interferance one ie dohc/turbo and later engines eg [ had an 86 leone did 200k belt idlers tensioner etc but sprocket idler reused with new bearing pressed by subaru dealer and that failed 1 year later ie seized destroying 1 of the 2 timing belts ,luckily old ea ohc enine non interferance so no serious damage just inconvenience so moral of story use new parts] its a good idea to mark everything with white marker like twink marker, ie line up and mark all the timing marks on cam pulleys, crank sprocket with marks on timing covers and mark old belt and have everything in the correct postion BEFORE disassembly. need to replace : 1 belt obviously 2 all idlers (plain and sprocketed { toothed}) and tensioner/idler- not really a good idea to reuse the old one. 3 oil seals on crankshaft and cam shafts 4 water pump at 200k or 8 years not necesarry at 100k but if car 10year + probably a good idea to replace. 5 Some suggest replacing the oil pump not sure about this but l'm of the opinion that it should be ok if there has been regular servicing. the biggest killer of subaru engines (cracked heads, blown head gaskets, cooked motors, clogged radiators) is lack of servicing ie regular oil/filter changes and replacement of coolant / flushing of cooling system (every 2 years) because subaru engine is in a flat boxer configuration the oil and water (coolant) stays in contact with gaskets and oil / water in bad condition can eat away at gaskets, clogg radiators etc. eg l had an 86 leone with a radiator 85% clogged after unexplained overheating driving uphill, had a flow test done, had to be taken apart and physically "rodded out". so managed to save it. no thanks to the previous owners. sorry have gone on a bit but hope this is useful, on sub no. 5 and for 20 years :}