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  • Drives :
    06 Outback 3.0R S I Drive Facelift 87 Brumby 4 man hi/lo
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    ski camp tramp mt. bike
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    ex farmer also drove taxis buses now in tourism

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  1. For those that have a JDM S I Drive BL/ BPs and wonder what the random occassional single audible beep means (similar to each time transmission mode is changed.) And not able to read the Japanese script in the multi - function display as well. - finally worked it out with mine recently - display showed 2 at the time it beeped which corresponded with 2 hours driving. when checking trip duration. Guessing its a warning / alert to take a break from driving.
  2. Car: 06 BP9 Outback 3.0R S I Drive (facelift) JDM Tuned: Stock Fuel: 95 as recommended. Tank 64 litres Tyres; stock size 30 fr 28r psi as recommended. Fuel economy: Worst: 7.5-8km / litre urban-short running) 13L/100km Mixed running 35% short/ 65% open road 9,5km / litre. 10 L/100km Open road 2-4hrs+ trip 11-13km / litre. 8 - 9 L/100km (figures taken from trip computer and also set trip metre at each fill up to check) Best 7.8 L/100km Dunedin to Invercargill once - ideal conditions no traffic good weather Spring @ 110kph Reasons for good economy 3.0R tall overall gearing ie 3.27 diffs 100kph @ 2000rpm. SI drive better for fuel economy - torque converter locks up sooner and engine power reduced in "Intelligent" (economy) mode. (10% better than non SI Drive 5EATs) Its interesting watching the actual fuel consumption on trip computer once open road and 80kph + fuel consumption improves a lot.
  3. Have you considered a 3.0R (without the turbo hassles, headgasket issues of EJ25s, EJ cam belt changing issues ) Unfortunately 3 Gen BP 3.0R Outback only available with 5EAT. 4th Gen BL / BP Legacy 3.0R has 6MT option as well JDM ex Japan A regularly serviced EJ 2.5 will easily do more than 300K + along with head gasket replacement at some stage. They [EJ 251(BH) / EJ253(BP)] headgaskets usually weep oil /coolant externally. Mine leaked coolant from the left rear head - onto the crossmember - not obvious to detect. (only dripped / weeped while engine running.) When I replaced the headgaskets (with MLS ones) and resurfaced heads - on previous 01 Gen 2 BH9 D/R Outback at 255K 2 years ago the engine was still in good condition. (while engine out replaced clutch as well) Apart from this these cars give few if any problems. In some ways regret selling it as it was the not so common manual dual range. But was seduced by the extra power of 3.0R Outback and for ground clearance and ability to go offroad (live in a mountainous rural area) and having really liked the previous Outback for those reasons. If Legacys had more ground clearance i would have bought one years ago - instead hung on to my 86 Leone til 09 then got 1st Outback. If BP Legacys had more ground clearance I would have got a 3.0R 6MT. The only advise I can offer is that its a trade off between the the better handling lower Legacys with turbo performance with associated issues against the 2.5 Outback with impending / eventual headhgasket issues. similar to yourthought Your choice depends on how you're going to use the car. ie (Outdoor / off road interests etc or straight highway use)
  4. Had 6 cars before 1st Subaru in 1992 - now on 6th Sub. 1st in 1975, 69 Austin A60 ute ok from getting from point A to B , 1st wheels so style / performance didn't matter too much then - good / more convenient for carting dirt bikes around at the time. (not actual photo - identical one of it from google)
  5. There's no power difference with SI Drive but it seems a lot more lively as throttle response is a lot sharper and the Transmission (5EAT) shift points are higher up the rev range and holds it in the lower gears longer in "sports sharp" mode. Haven't driven a 6MT SI Drive so can't comment on them. Going from "Intelligent" mode (economy) - sluggish response to "sports sharp" (using steering wheel button) and shift selector to manual (5EAT) and paddles to downshift - is like selecting warp drive (3000rpm - 6500rpm) - the car comes to life and 150kph comes up quickly - Great for overtaking those losers who speed up on straights and passing lanes who make it difficult to pass easily. However not as quick as turboed H4s which have more mid range torque from lower rpm. The 3.0R doesn't get off its ass til 3000/3500rpm - 6500rpm . Would highly recommend an SI Drive 5EAT transmission (facelift 06-08) from my experience, as the general comment is that they are better for using the power in "sports sharp" and for economy in "Intelligent" mode-although sluggish in this setting. (economy claimed to be 10% better) Can believe it because best economy I've had is 13km/litre indicated by trip computer ( about 8 l/100km) but that was ideal weather road conditions (flat) and just me in car on a 3 /4 hr trip. - normal country trips with hills and overtaking etc get 11- 12km / litre (trip-computer) 8.5-9L/100km. I only use the middle "sports" setting when the blue transmission temperature light is on indicating that "sports sharp" can't be selected until transmission warms up and this blue light goes out. (unfortunately pay a premium - more expensive ie $12-$16K as there aren't many for sale.) Paid $12K for mine in Chch ex Japan (06 JDM 3.0R Outback SI drive) 14 months ago and that was a good deal then as all the others similar were $1K to $2K more. Its just as economical if not more sometimes than my previous manual 2.5 Outback most of the time except for short /Urban running- (the best i could ever get was 8.5l/100km with 2.5 MT on a trip) Reason 3.0R has 3.25 diffs so 100kph @ 2000rpm vs 2.5 5MT has 4.11diffs so 105 / 110kph @ 3000rpm depending on 5th ratio.
  6. What ever is the best deal is at Repco ie when monthly sale on for 5/10W30/40 Castrol Mobil Penrite etc
  7. 1st Subaru 83 JDM Leone GL EA81 wagon 160K km in 1995. added 50K over 3 years. (had to do front CV joints) 2nd Subaru, 86 GL Leone EA82 wagon added 200,000 km over 14years 350,,000 km total in 2009 when gave it to neighbour. only issues new clutch at 200K km , rebuilt carb. 3rd subaru 88 similar to previous cooling system issues due to previous owner neglect 180,000km was NEVER as good as the previous car. 180K km - added about 10 K km over 2 years 4th Subaru 87 Brumby in original condition, no rust - was late fathers from Alexandra 210K km still have, motor tired ie 1litre oil / 1000km but still runs ok a project rebuild still waiting. 5th Subaru 01 Outback 2.5 manual D/R 255,000km when sold in 2015,added 100,000 km in 6.5 years, only issue replaced head gaskets at 250K km as left rear head weeping coolant and replaced clutch. 6th Subaru 06 facelift JDM Outback 3.0R SI Drive 166,000km - added 21K km over 14 months since purchased.
  8. How bout this? 87 in original condition. Was late fathers so have had for 10 1/2 years - so not for sale. Came from Alexandra so rust free.
  9. 87 Brumby / 06 Outback (Legacy) 3.0R S I Drive Facelift
  10. Could it be a faulty (temperature) sensor perhaps - throwing it out?
  11. 1500kg is pretty much on the limit (maximun) Rule of thumb - max towing weight (braked trailer) no more than the weight of towing vehile
  12. Well Im not blind as you seem to be. Read and take note of the content on this forum and all the other failures NOT talked about on this forum. You only need to talk to mechanics that fix Subarus. Age means experience had no issues so far with Subarus apart from maintenance for age related stuff ie 6th Suburas in last 24 years. I'm also entitled to have an opinion also without being being personally attacked. _ Haven't been on this forum for a considerable period of time the this is a good reason not to bother again.
  13. Anything turbo charged particularly 2nd hand in essence is a time bomb waiting to go off The extra performance not worth the risk. Upgraded to 06 3.0R Outback + 5 EAT S I Drive Facelift JDM (no manual option in Outback) Fuel economy (trip computer) 9km /litre (mixed running) 12km /litre (open road) Have never liked Legacies / too low too and on road focused . Thats why I kept an 86 Leone wagon 5MT D/R til 2009 replacing it with an 01 Outback 2.5 man. D/R The only Leagcy I would of had would have been an early non interference SOHC 2.2 GX manual hi/lo wagon.
  14. these don't like short running, mine (BH9 01 manual with 240K) fuel consumption drops significantly with city driving / short running. take it on a good trip to get a better idea what its capable of.
  15. To put costs in perspective 2c/km to 4c/km for tyres is cheap compared to fuel cost of 22c/km ( @ average consumption of 10L/100km) Don't really want to economise too much on tyres especially going into winter. So much is said and done on here ie money spend on : regarding performance increases, brakes, suspension mods etc all a complete waste of time, if tyres not considered, if those 4 small rubber patches that make contact with the road is compromised. Electronic traction aids ie ABS VDC traction/stability controls etc are compromised also. In my opinion the first thing that should be upgraded / maintained, is tyres before anything else, before going silly / starting on other mods, at least you know have a better chance of staying on the road particularly if boosted. Run GTs (normal use) / Bridgestone Blizzaks (winter use) on Outback and cheapies on Brumby coz thats all it needs
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