Decimate

Cheers bro

Not you, and not me. I didn\'t put this up as a sob story - quite the opposite - the intention was to show that an engine can still start whilst spewing litres of water, and to admit that mistakes can happen so hopefully I, and others, can learn from it. I seem to have attracted a few clowns though who are a bit \'holier than thou\' about the whole thing though - just another reason why I spend more time on other forums now. Let me be clear - I was not aware there was water in there until 1st start. Once I was aware there was something wrong I did not know how much water was in there, or where it was originating from. The very first time I started it was with the turbo on, when I saw water coming out I though it might have been from the coolant coming into the turbo so I took it off and videoed it to check. My first reaction was not to pull the sparks or anything like that. I need to learn the lesson at some stage and thankfully it\'s not really an expensive engine to learn it on, and a good chance to upgrade again if it\'s really shagged. We\'ll soon see wont we.

Yep I agree not the best way to get it out, I guess you could say I have the luxury of not needing to care too much as a replacement engine is readily available should I require it. The only alternative to it going through the throttle body would be it going straight into the uppipe but I don\'t think I had the turbo off while it was outside at all. I\'ll take the sump off as suggested, put some new oil through, bolt up the exhaust and let it run for 30 minutes and see what happens. I\'ve taken a spark plug out of each bank and they look fine except one has a chunk out of the ceramic so I\'ll repalce that one at least.

Can you elaborate please? Sure I can appreciate there would be some pressure in the combustion chamber whilst it tries to squeeze the water out of 2 x little valves, but compare that to the same amount of boost pressure it would take to bend a subaru rod (20-30?) I don\'t see how it would be that much. Or are you talking about a different factor caused by the water altogether.

So, Long story short: -V7 scoop on an RS +Leaving the intercooler piping off (so throttle body = just sitting there) +Car outside for a few days +Rain = And after a good clean and with the turbo back on Not bad for a 22 year old motor which has been drowning for 3 months!

Last resort! cheers tho man

Crap, I\'ve sold the old box I had no ides. Might email the guy I sold it too see if he wants to sell the parts back as he was just replacing an old style one of the same type

So, I\'ve not got the box mated to the engine (refer previous topic) but now I\'ve found several other issues. Firstly - I have tried multiple searches, I am guessing this stuff has been covered before but without perusing hundreds of threads I figure it\'ll be OK to ask. Plus, thanks everyone so far for your help with my project. Now i\'ve got the GTB 4.44 gearbox on the BC5 I\'ve run into a few issues - thought I might get a sanity check: Firstly, there are lots of electrical/sensor connectors that the old box didn\'t have: The larger circle on the above pic is part of the loom but doesn\'t match anything on the gearbox? Then there\'s the speedo drive - old one is manual, the new one uses electronic right? What do I need to do to convert? And finally - the shift linkage seems to be missing something? It\'s about an inch or two too sort too, argh! Plus there doesnt seem to be anywhere for the spring to go ??? I\'ve had a look at some other pics, and it\'s missing a U bracket type thing it seems - is this correct? Thanks people!

Sometimes the obvious thing to do isn\'t so obvious haha will give it a try thanks

Oh bugger yeah I mean spigot oops sorry guys - thrust bearing is on the selector fork/input shaft as it should be.

OK, so without doing enough research beforehand, I\'ve gone to get the gearbox reinstalled onto my engine and it wont go on past the bottom two dowels. I realised that I\'ve got the gearbox as far forward as it will go, but it\'s the engine that needs to come back. Yup - I didn\'t brace it properly when removing the gearbox totally my fault. I\'ve tried jacking the front of the engine up a bit from a couple of different points etc but it will only push in closer about 1cm, maybe two to the gearbox then it just locks and wont go any further. I\'ve had a mate underneath shaking the gearbox whilst I jack the engine, vice versa, etc etc but it wont budge. Is there a proper way to brace under the engine to get some good lift on it, or do I need to pull the box off and start again. To give you an idea this is how it\'s currently sitting: It\'s also possible that the input shaft isn\'t sitting in the thrust bearing, but I did line everything up properly with the correct tool etc etc

Holy shit mate that\'s insane, glad you\'re OK, the fact you can type a legible paragraph in itself seems like a big win (if that\'s the right term to use given the circumstance). May you have a speedy recovery, give us a yell if you need anyone to keep the engine warm for ya Razz & I will happily help.

Thanks fella, it\'s all good, I\'ll battle away. I\'m in Wakefield FYI. My goal is at the very latest to have it done by 1st week of Jan cos I have a whole week off then. In reality it\'s really only a full days work or so if I put some effort in. It\'s the annoying things like lining up dowels and sorting CVs that seem to stuff me.

If some yo clowns want to come kick my ass and get my 4.44 gearbox in then I will finally be able to roll around and be sociable. I\'ve got the new clutch and rear diff in but have hit the wall in terms of one man ability lol

Thanks fellas that\'s all I needed to know, I\'ll pass on this one methinks and try and find something sti or 2.5

Hi folks, FYI I have just spent the last hour doing various google combinations but can\'t find a consistant answer: Does anyone know whether there is any difference internally between a 96 wrx ra and sti ra engine? I\'ve been offered a bare block wrx ra engine with stuffed bearings for $100 and thought it would be ok to build up on the side for when my RS engine blows (it will happen). I wont bother though if it\'s just another closed deck block with nothing special to it, but if it has good heads and internals as opposed to same old then maybe it\'ll be worth it..... Ta

That\'s what I was hoping for - BNT? I\'ve tried the local bearing place and will hear back from them when I get them the bearing #.

Thanks guys. $190 from Subaru.....fark that!!!

Sweet, are all turbos pull type? I\'ve read some stuff that mentions all wrx and turbos from 93-on use pull type but no mention of the BC shape?

So I\'m running a real dogs breakfast in my BC5 RS, it\'s a GTB 4.44 box and diff, and the clutch/pressure plate is from an early 90\'s legacy RS I believe. I just need the release bearing so when I go into Subaru what model should I tell them I have? They should all work shouldn\'t they?

All good fella I just want a good outcome for ya, me personally - I loath paying any garage any sum of money, because I\'ve been ripped before but that\'s my prerogative, not yours. As long as you\'re happy, sweet, give it death ;D

I\'m sure a few of us boys here in Nelson would do it for some beers and pizza lol, knock it out in no time. Wish I could afford to pay garages silly money

WTF I hope you\'re not serious about paying that much

Yeah good points I didnt even think about the starter (can\'t crash start it without a gearbox either lol) I\'ve decided to go 4.44 with new clutch, RB and flywheel, hopefully hopefully hopefully that solves it

Thanks dude, well maybe that blows my theory that the RB was the problem, I\'ll pry it apart and see how it looks. Next question: would it be stupid to start the engine w/ the gearbox off just to make sure it wasn\'t an engine related noise?