Decimate

Well sh!t thanks swindog lol. Hmm well yes flywheel certainly needs love, and I agree. when pressure is placed on the release bearing (like full weight) it will spin on a stable axis pretty consistantly) but still, what is the deal with the two sections of the release bearing? Seems weird. Thought the clutch was OK too. looks like it might be easier to replace the whole damn lot

OK, here we go..... I best make reference to what I thought was the metal jamming the flywheel last night: Then I\'ll start with clutch, not too bad: Flywheel, pretty grubby: So, pressure plate + release/throw out/whatever bearing: It seems intertwined with the pressure plate - there\'s some little fingers that wrap around the pressure plate - im guessing this is normal But then it seperates like this: This is what it looks like form other side But then it warps like this when pressure is applied Not sure what it all means, hopefullt it means I just need a new clutch, TO bearing and to skim the PP.....

Indeed, the more I think about it, the more this would explain the symptoms: i.e. would roll in neutral but in gear with the clutch in, it wouldn\'t move (i.e clutch was having no effect due to farked R.B) Also explains the noise as part of the release bearing is locked into the pressure plate so would be spinning whenever the engine was cranking regardless of clutch being engaged or not. I hope this is what it is. I\'ll stop rambling now and post some actual pics. Oh, and yup decent meat on clutch, it\'s a bit glazed is all.

I have got the flywheel etc off, that allowed me to check condition on both sides of flywheel and clutch which is where I identified that wear on the flywheel. The release bearing also seems to seperate into two pieces....really not sure if that\'s normal or not, and when I spin it around it\'s well off centre and spins around in a lumpy/egg motion instead of in a circle. Will take pictures later, seems like that would be the best thing to do.

Well, I did note the flywheel looks rubbish, heaps of marks/residue on it, and the clutch doesn\'t look in great nick either, so maybe that\'s a possibility. I will post solme pics tonight if I remember. So maybe it was just bad timing from lack of use (I think titian mentioned clutch had stuck to flywheel or something on page 1). Thanks for offer titian, I\'m in Nelson though! Stumped

Well s***. Just s***. After finally getting the gearbox off tonight (wtf to the people that can do it in 2 hours) I finally saw what must have been stopping the flywheel from rotating (there was a piece of what looked like scrap metal jammed behind the flywheel) So I got in there with a screwdriver to see if I could pry it out and ..... it was just some plastic wrap. Not only that, but the flywheel now turns freely (well, it\'s stiff because of compression etc but I can crank the engine over a few times if I put some weight into it). So what\'s wrong with my car?!?! I\'ll kick myself in the face if I\'ve gone through that whole exercise and it was just the starter or something lol. Still tempted to change the clutch and go 4.44 while I\'ve got the box and diff off but I\'m mainly puzzled as to what it was that was making the horrendous noise and that stopped it from starting. I thought maybe the starter wasn\'t engaging properly but that doesn\'t really explain why the car wouldn\'t roll unless the clutch was in amd it was in neutral (clutch in and in gear = no roll...) If I get the gearbox back in which will prob take me another 2 weeks and it does the same thing someones gonna get hurt HELP PLEASE! ??? ??? ???

Thanks mate and to everyone for the helpful replies I'll put pics up next weekend when I find what happened.....

Can someone please tell me about this pin lol

Haha umm ... so anyway, I've done some reading and actually it doesn't look too bad to remove, I'll hopefully get it done weekend after this one. And yup - will take flywheel/clutch etc off to check too.

Hmm yes box out time indeed. I'm already pricing up 4.44 box, diff and HD clutch....sigh 4WD boxes freak me out, I've only done a couple of FWDs before but hey nothing like a baptism of fire right

Well.......I'm screwed then. Thanks mate I'll wheel her into the garage. PS I did try and move the flywheel with a screwdriver but it wont budge a mm

Thanks for the replies, haha I only cranked it maybe 3 times, but yeah that was prob 3 times too many. Thing is if I had not cranked it again after the first time I would have walked away thinking my bottom end was gone and never realised where the sound was coming from....lol. So I think I'm gonna find out how easy/hard this inspection plate it to get to. If easyish I'll try that, if hard, I'll take the starter off, slip her back a few notches and jam a magnetic wand down, and failing that, I'll crack the bottom of the case or take the whole thing off. Sounds like a good excuse for a new clutch and/or 4.44 box though. And maybe a flywheel if I've mangled that one

A few weeks ago when I had all the intercooler piping etc off my car and was swapping the turbo I lost a bolt. I heard it clatter down into the bowels of the engine bay somewhere but had a strange feeling that it could have fallen into the flywheel/clutch area (via the big exposed hole in the top). I forgot all about it, and last night when I went to start my car after finally getting it ready to go, as soon as I turned the key there was the most hideous metal on metal screeching. I thought for a second maybe I'd forgotten to fill the oil back up but nope wasn't that, I tried a few more tentative starts but same hting each time. By then it all started coming back to me.....eventually it just refused to crank over, like it had siezed the flywheel or the bolt had become so mangled it had stopped the flywheel from spinning. Interestingly, the car could be rolled backward and forward in neutral and with the clutch in, but when it was in gear with the clutch in it wouldn't budge? So...is there an easy way to crack the bottom of the case without taking the whole gearbox out and hope that the bolt falls out? Or even try a magnetic pickup tool through the hole in the top? Or am I going to have to pull the damn thing out? Any suggestions welcome. Chur

Ooohhh this is going to motivate me to get the rest of my car together - seems a few of us are in that boat lol.

Ive PMd twin turbo guy, and that leone fella might be interested too

In with a grin

OK, so can I swap only the ear diff and still have the same result? Or do I need the diff and internals?

Hi, My mate has a 4.44 sti v6 box for sale, and I have the stock 4.11 box in mine (RS legacy). Could I take the internals out of his one and fit them into mine? Or just the diff/output shafts? Basically want that sweet final drive. Cheers!

Agreed, and nitrous on both. But be careful because when racing you might get a danger to manifold message pop up on yo laptop then your floor might fall out

That's good, the part numbers seemed to match a Subaru model, it's a big-16g I believe. I'm going to buy a 90 degree 2.25" - 2.5" bend, and hopefully that will work, I'm concerned as it would be a silicon bend going onto a plastic bend, so I'm not sure if I would be able to clamp them together, I might need to get a piece of pipe to put in between the bend and the stock intake pipe

Nelson, but turbo is already on hold, someone got in there like a snake

So just another ordinary evening in the garage, have recently pulled a few bits off the engine as part of upgrading some things, and was putting the oil feed back on my stockers RS legacy VF8, I think I must have over-tightened it cause nek minnit: Sheared the bolt right off...so I thought oh well f*8k it, might as well chuck the TD05 on (I wasn't going to do this until I'd done the fuel pump, pressure reg, injectors etc, as I need to drive the car when I'm moving house in 2 weeks and wont have all that sorted by then). 2-3 hours of faffing round later and I've finally got the TD05 on. Anyhow, I compared the two turbos, and they seem almost identical in intake/outlet diameter etc, see pics below: VF8: TD05: TD05 Left, VF8 Right: I know that;s no exactly scientific but I did get the measuring tape out and they're pretty much dead even. Still got to work out how to get a goddam 90 degree intake for the TD05 too. So what can I expect by going TD05? I've got injectors and fuel pressure reg ready to do split rail, but not fuel pump yet, if I drive it casually when moving house (25kms away) should I do any damage? And anyone want a free VF8?* *Pay shipping, and may require removal of bolt from oil gallery

With a Walbro right?

Do you think that is also partly the reason for the 3rd cylinder running lean? I mean I know they're fine if the boost etc is stock, but seeing as they start to lean out once boost is raised...well, that would support that theory. Unusual for Subaru to under-engineer (comparitively) something for once And funkytown......cool, thanks

I talked to Razz last night and it seems his account was hacked or he left it logged in on a public computer or something. He also re-iterated just now that he also isn't a dolphin or troll but I saw the thread and it was pretty out of the ordinary I know he wouldn't try and blow his car up :-\ maybe instead of banning him you could just ask him what it was all about?