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Andy_Mac

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Posts posted by Andy_Mac

  1. have now developed a high pitched whine that gets higher and louder with more things running (stereo, lights, a/c) and when engine rpm rises so i get the feeling the alternator is just struggling with the extra load from the stereo.

    Can\'t get it to do it when it just sits there idling. Still makes the whine with the stereo volume turned right down which i\'m thinking would rule out interference running through the speakers, could be wrong but logically i\'d have thought with the volume right down a mild hum would be the most you\'d ever get. Stops when the stereo is turned off which turns off the amp so not sure what the draw would be from the amp with volume turned right down, might test that tomorrow.

    Will take it for a drive with a passenger tomorrow so they can confirm whether it\'s coming through the speakers or not.

    Sounds like a similar issue to this one, never posted up what fixed it in the end though..

    http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,19430.0.html

  2. Don\'t know what kind of pressure\'s car refrig runs at but with commercial refrig after a compressor burn out we just change the drier and the pressure pushes any remaining crap along into the new drier and that gets changed again in a month or so, And when condensers can run into the tens of thousands its pretty hard convincing the customer they need to replace them just because of a little contamination.

  3. I\'d disagree with replacing all that. All you\'d really need to do would be pressurise it to a couple of hundred psi and push any crap out and do a decent vac. Unless its been left with a component unsealed then maybe there is too much to deal with but chucking in a filter/drier is normally enough. If you think the contamination has effected the condenser enough to change then by that theory shouldn\'t the evap be changed aswell.

    Although the price of a 2nd hand coil is potentially cheaper than the effort needed to clean out the old one.

    As long as there is a couple of psi left in it it should stay uncontaminated. So really before going down the full replacement track they should crack one of the pipes and if any gas is still there then most components will be ok. The tx valve and solenoids are the only parts that will really struggle to deal with a small amount of contamination

  4. Would i be right in assuming the condenser is being replaced as it had a hole and compressor burnt out from having no gas? Has something hit the frontend?

    $500 isn\'t all that bad really for someone else doing it but it would be a fairly simple task to do yourself.

    Those discount vouchers do make regassing a bit less of a rip off but if you know anyone out your way who does a/c stuff get them to hook you up for a box of beer, these car systems only take a few 100g. With our big systems its acceptable to lose about 50g every time we check the pressures so what a car takes is nothing.

  5. Not a mechanic so not really sure what sounds are ok on a car and what aren\'t.

    I know in my trade (A/C and Refrig) a sound like this would generally indicate stuffed bearings which should be replaced asap

    So i think this noise is coming from a pulley somewhere in the deep abyss.

    I first noticed it as i was looking for the source of a high pitched whine that has come about since installing a decent audio setup.

    It seems to only occur when the sounds turned up a reasonable amount and stops when the headunits turned off, maybe something to do with the alternator. Possibly a different problem though, thinking maybe wiring interference.

    EDIT: Changed to youtube as photobucket compressed it and decided the possible bearing sound wasn\'t a necessary part of the audio...

  6. Thats what I felt like too, I like the idea of a rex but aren\'t really keen for the popo attention and all that goes along with them, interior wise i like the BE\'s a hell of a lot more than older rex\'s. And i really don\'t think i could live with all the blue in the interior.

    Talk to subout, part of subworx. Don\'t know if they\'re in the right part of the country for you but they quoted me 2800 for a unspecified version sti conversion with turbo and ecu or 3800 for full v8 conversion with group n ecu.

    The only problem i feel would be the small block as you\'d be getting new heads and all that but whether the legacy block is strong enough for any power increase. Just thinking out loud though, someone with more experience could say otherwise.

  7. yea thats why it makes bugger all sense. And nothing else got knocked, checked everything after i took it for the first drive with it changed and it felt worse.

    Oh well might just have to do a half arse tear down over the weekend, was keen to see if the primary had any shaft play as i think its been getting a bit louder lately.

    Assuming the turbo intake can be moved aside enough without taking off the manifold.

  8. got an issue thats kinda stumped me, was having a nosey around the engine bay the other day and noticed someone had moved a clamp from holding on a pipe going between the passenger side bov and turbo intake and had it just on the pipe squashing it quite a bit. so i decided to move it to where it should be, the pipe wasn\'t the whole way on so i pushed it down further and clamped it. The part i don\'t get is now the vod seems exponentially worse. The only thing i could think of was some air was escaping before the turbo which doesn\'t seem quite right as pressures were always slightly high rather than low. And the pipe was on enough that it was still fairly tight.

    749_zps1641f7e1.jpg

    Cars a 2000 B4 RSK btw

  9. Has anyone seen one of these before. The internet just links the model number to a whole load of Asian sites i can\'t read but one says its a GPS antenna.

    Assume its for a headunit the car used to have that had GPS as i guess an alarm one wouldn\'t be put in a spot so easy to rip out.

    fr_771_size400_zps1846652c.jpg

    fr_765_size400_zps10634713.jpg

  10. narrowed it down to this setup which i think wwill get the job done.

    DD 8" sub

    http://www.onlinecaraudio.co.nz/DD_LE_MINI08

    Infinity components

    http://www.onlinecaraudio.co.nz/Infinity_REF6510CS

    and a amp capable of atleast 90w per channel. Narrowed it down to these two as a haven\'t found many others that\'ll do round the 90w mark

    http://www.onlinecaraudio.co.nz/JBL_GTO1004

    http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/amps/131/amp-4-channel-lw4-640-lil-wonder/153786/detail

    just can\'t decide whether the JBL is worth the $100 extra

  11. just sidetracking a little. My B4 does the same, any idea what it actually is doing to make the sound, i\'d always thought it was bearings or something like that and that it\'ll need replacing in the not too distant future

  12. Looking at getting a better setup for my legacy as it currently sounds like absolute rubbish.

    Thinking maybe two 6x9\'s in the section behind rear seats. I\'ve heard good things about rockford fosgate and figured i\'d go with them for these speakers atleast. Just not sure whether to go for the punch series or prime. Anyone tried both as if the punch is not much better i\'d rather not spend the extra $$

    Also i can\'t be bothered with a sub as space is limited as is in a sedan.

    Thinking either of these

    http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/speakers/129/coax-6x9-inch-p1692-punch-series/153404/detail

    http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/speakers/129/coax-6x9-inch-r1693-prime-series/153427/detail

    With

    http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/amps/131/amp-2-channel-pbr300x2-300-watt-rail-boost/153457/detail

    For the amp

    And the door speakers will get sorted after i make up my mind for this part

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