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ajayel last won the day on April 25

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About ajayel

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    2007 JDM 3.0R Outback
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  1. If you go with the strainer I don't think it's on partsouq because subaru don't list but uses Denso 952-0086. You got the factory service manual ay? The 2005-2007'ish docs didn't detail replacing the filter tho added notes in 2008,9 but the procedure is the same. It recommends changing heaps of parts and breaking the case open . It can be pried open with screwdrivers and re-used. The only parts I replaced were the pump as mentioned, filter & big seal around the top of the assembly and there's 4 o-rings should be replaced, note the slightly different diameters on partsouq IIRC 3 * 8mm, 1 * 7mm. The procedure's similar if you replace the pump or not as it snaps into the filter. Anyway there's a good video here. Please let us know how this or other work affects driveability and timing. Yeah I ended up paying for the leakdown test. Ended up building a smoke machine from a youtube video to see where smoke escaped from the air intake or exhaust plumbing but workshops often have these. Gotta love partsouq eh except when they refund something as out of stock and then send an e-mail after shipping saying the part's back in stock. haha all good fun .
  2. I looked at the before & after logs - after the fuel pump changed IAM increased and stayed higher. Strangely the fuel trims didn't change much but guess it would only need a brief lean moment to knock as you say. Chopped the old filter open with a saw - didn't seem too dirty inside but wouldn't really know. I changed the fuel filter once before last year but it didn't make much of a difference to the engine computer so I'm thinking it was the pump that helped here unless I did the filter wrong first time around.
  3. Mine did for ages. Like yourself and Caleb it bugged me because it didn't drive like an 3.0 but also that IAM would change weekly, even on the same fill of fuel (98 RON), weather so on. I had an e-tuner work on it before learning basic open source tuning but neither helped much aside from using heaps of fuel. Then had Tactrix log full time to SD card awhile and loaded it all into a database to analyse the parameters when the worst feedback or rough knock correction happened. Highway gradients in 5th would trigger changes which is lugging but other times it would jump around in benign driving conditions. By then I loved reading and learning anything on the H6 3.0's here or other sites, still do. But back to hardware. IAM's been higher but more importantly stable and driving better with recent fixes however it's just a month in. Also it's Autumn so things could change when warmer humid weather arrives, or before. Most of these helped my car, you might have done them already but if not I hope they help ; Cylinder compression & leak down test. For sanity and to make sure I wasn't spending up on a no good engine. Regular servicing. Just good fluids, genuine filters & parts as we don't know what the previous owners did & our cars are fussy as. Check the plastic air chamber that sits behind the throttle body. There's a known vertical crack that opens up front and centre. Also the join seam that runs around its circumference can peel open a little. They can cause vacuum leaks but are easily filled with JB Plasti Weld. Check the catalytic converter covers, they are made of mild metal and should have a couple mm gap around the pipe at the forward and rear openings. Mine were rusted around the bolts & the ends smashed right up onto the exhaust pipe plus small stones trapped inside. These factors can make a vibration that the knock sensors shouldn't hear . Change the in tank fuel filter & strainer. I ended up changing the fuel pump as well which is provided with a new strainer but you can buy them separately. This change was also reflected on the knock logged.
  4. Likely the ECU is still learning. Could've reset back or settled on 0.5 tho unusual. Mine needs 10 minutes gentle driving followed by some wide open throttle to add timing.
  5. Not sure , someone here may be able to help out or post those error messages to the RomRaider forums. Did you see where the IAM value is at with RR logger ?
  6. For the gearbox hard shifting problem especially 2-3 & 3-2 there's a transmission software update available at Subaru dealerships - got to pay I think less than an hundy. We got this on our '07 3.0 5EAT but now no longer notice the shifts.
  7. Just means that your cars ECU ID isn't in RomRaider's default defs, not unusual for the 3.0's. From your first post BtSSM screenshot it's D2UH001T - we can add this to RR; 0. close all open instances of RomRaider on your computer 1. download D2UH001T.xml from http://www.romraider.com/forum/download/file.php?id=12507 or http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6476 2. move the file to you documents folder or wherever you stored the ecu_defs.xml file 3. open RR ECU Editor 4. click the ECU definitions menu to open the manager 5. add D2UH001T.xml to the end of the list, press save 6. close RR ECU editor 7. connect to the car, open RR Logger to try learning view again
  8. yeah true they are real lethargic immediately after reset. you can get LV by pressing F6 or the Tools menu whilst connected to the vehicle
  9. edit - sorry didn't read proply - you reset the battery already. does it drive different & can you share the learning view here ?
  10. @Outback Ash my EZ30 has the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor front of the passenger side cylinder head but yours could be different. There's a section for each engine in the factory service manuals with component diagrams, specs & install instructions. Also covers how radiator fan speed is set by the computer depending on ECT, vehicle speed and a few other params. You can find all of the Suby service manuals over @ https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/. Sounds like a interesting workshop there bro!
  11. If the fans don't run at all BP leggies have a built in test to force them to spin up. this could identify the ECT sensor prob @Technikhaus described. 1) with the key out 2) pull up the passenger side floor carpet from under the plastic trim roughly RHS of the glove-box. 3) rummage around behind the carpet. should find two loose green electrical connectors, 4) there's not too much free cable but join the connectors together 5) Turn the key until the dashboard lights up 6) You should hear the radiator fans spinning up, on and off every 20 seconds (guessing from memory here) but don't worry if the check engine light flashes 7) maybe leave it for 5 mins - other tests are also cycled you might hear clicks from various relays or pumps 8 ) turn the car off, disconnect the green connectors
  12. Any oil or coolant clinging to the engine or radiator ? Might need to remove a plastic cover underneath the engine to look, tho I guess the workshop would/should have reported leaks. Do you know if the radiator & radiator cap are original or replaced ? Does the temp gauge climb or rad fans eventually activate if you watch the car whilst parked for a 1/2 hour with the engine running ? Sorry so many q's
  13. With our cars the thermostat is fully open @ 95C, couple of images from the factory service manual below. Seems the dashboard temp gauge specs are horizontal approx' 88C to 102C. Normal temp is a good question as there's not much log data shared online for the 3.0's but after reading around my guess (and it is just that) perhaps around 90C to 96C for Auckland with the dash gauge one tick below the horizontal. Maybe plus a few C for heat soak at traffic lights. Plenty of people report that the dash gauge can clock-face 9 up to 11 so right up to the 110's with hills, hot weather or towing but I guess each car would be slightly different. It would be great if other H6 owners had data to share on this. I don't reckon small spikes of temperate are critical especially when it's managed back down but when my radiator developed a small leak the amount of time the temps basked in the 99 or 100C range increased more and more.
  14. haha yeah it would relearn fuel trims and knock cells after a few drive cycles, you can watch these on BtSSM or RomRaider learning view. a change in airflow caused by a new AVCS solenoid would affect the long term fuel trims and lean spots cause knock (FBKC, FLKC on the logs which contribute to IAM) so I would reset it on my car. is yours auto or MT ? my 5EAT auto doesn't like the engine (ECU) to be reset in RomRaider unless the transmission computer (TCU) is also reset in RR. or just disconnect the battery whilst you do the change. did you say you were in Perth , hows the temperature there or was the car loaded or towing ? one of your logs had coolant temp up at 98C on a short drive. it's not real high but getting there, worth keeping an eye on these aluminium engines. mine got up to 99, 100 in auckland summer when the original radiator just started to leak , replaced the rad, t-stat and coolant and it's dropped back 4 or 5 degrees .
  15. maybe pick a part or the wreckers ?