Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×

ajayel

Subscribed Member
  • Posts

    66
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

ajayel last won the day on April 25 2020

ajayel had the most liked content!

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    2007 JDM 3.0R Outback
  • Location
    auckland

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

ajayel's Achievements

Restricted License

Restricted License (2/7)

55

Reputation

  1. Good to read this @flokie, any chance you can share the modified ROM file ?
  2. Did you have any luck getting this car running any better @BMCracer ?
  3. Yeah just 4 bolts but you'll lose a little coolant disconnecting those lines so may need to bleed air out again and it's recommended to use a new TB gasket. You can also hold the throttle open for cleaning with engine off/ignition on & a brick on the accelerator.
  4. if you post up examples of mismatches someone here maybe able to chime in with knowledge or experience
  5. try https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/ On that site the PDF manuals tend to be US market , the web versions match JDM better. Check the identification section under general description against your chassis number, my imported 07 is an 08 JDM model year .
  6. IAM 0.0 is the ECU needing more data to make up it's mind but somethings definitely wrong here, as you know! FLKC protects the engine up to 7 or 8 degrees which did get touched on albeit spiked very briefly. Could be so many things but airflow is interesting. After you let off the pedal the throttle closes appropriately but it's taking three or four seconds for the mass airflow reading to reduce. - is that intake chamber crack fixed ? - the pipe between the the air filter and intake chamber has a tab that must line up on the chamber kinda underneath and towards the driver - the pipe on the air filter box & where the chamber hooks onto the throttle body has rubber ends which can get kinked or tear causing leaks ? - is the MAF sensor dirty, loose or wiring damaged ? - is the MAP sensor (front of intake manifold) loose and have it's small rubber hoses to the filter connected (should be able to blow air gently thru filter & hoses) - are the 2 knock sensors (under the intake manifold, blue connectors) loose or corroded, cabling ok ? - any loose debris rattling around under the intake manifold ? - any gunk around the fuel injector seals ? - the orange gaskets under each side of the manifold and on the throttle body have tabs do they look perished ? - is the throttle body clean ? (added with edit)
  7. Just one more ; fbkc (feedback knock correction) I've thought of others that may help, not all available on all vehicles; gear (could be calculated gear) fuel tank pressure (if available) cpc (canister purge) egr steps (exhaust gas re circulation) You don't need these; Engine Load (Relative) (%) Mass Airflow Sensor Voltage (V) Main Accelerator Sensor (V) Sub Throttle Sensor (V) Sub Accelerator Sensor (V) Main Throttle Sensor (V)
  8. Might be worth a Romraider test run but prolly don't collect a heap of data until the intake is sealed as that's a vac leak. Please inc. both air fuel ratio sensors, both oxygen sensors and the others mentioned above.
  9. Feedback Knock Correction = FBKC (aka FKC) changes Fine Learning Knock Correction = FLKC changes Rough Correction = IAM changes If FBKC happens often it is stored to FLKC. To calc total timing base timing, (KCA*IAM), FBKC and FLKC are combined. The knock control strategy doc posted previously explains this properly but each of the three correction modes are applied within preset load/rpm ranges. A log file after the intake crack is fixed from normal driving, cruise and harder acceleration (joining the highway) might show us more around the conditions at accel/cruise/decel (load, rpm, pedal,throttle sensors) and airflow (VVT,MAF,AF,O2 sensors). The logs show how the params are increasing or decreasing rather than the freeze frame btssm is triggered to collect.
  10. The 3.6 has a lower compression ratio (10.5) so can use regular fuel and would prolly ping less but not had any hands on time with the EZ36. If you can get btssm to log another CSV that would be interesting. So similar to your previous logs posted maybe drop the OCV, OSV stuff and add in Feedback Knock correction and Fine Knock correction. The computer only applies knock correction above certain thresholds of load & rpm because some is just noise but these parameters tell us when its detected and learnt.
  11. That timing is down eh, either BtSSM is reading IAM wrong or there's a fair bit of real or perceived knock which explains the lack of drive-ability. I see you've already checked for loose parts that could make a metallic ringing including the cat shields. Any corrosion or cracks on the knock sensors themselves? Does you car have an EGR valve under the intake passenger side ? Much residue/clag around the injectors (would have to remove the black fuel rail protectors ) ? Also the serpentine belt tensioner and idle pulley are a weak point on our engines and can chatter before failing. My intake had a similar split that filled well after sanding with JB Plasti Weld (Repco) and an opp' to check throttle body is clean. Catalogue codes show Subaru made a later revision to the intake but these are expensive.
  12. If you go with the strainer I don't think it's on partsouq because subaru don't list but uses Denso 952-0086. You got the factory service manual ay? The 2005-2007'ish docs didn't detail replacing the filter tho added notes in 2008,9 but the procedure is the same. It recommends changing heaps of parts and breaking the case open . It can be pried open with screwdrivers and re-used. The only parts I replaced were the pump as mentioned, filter & big seal around the top of the assembly and there's 4 o-rings should be replaced, note the slightly different diameters on partsouq IIRC 3 * 8mm, 1 * 7mm. The procedure's similar if you replace the pump or not as it snaps into the filter. Anyway there's a good video here. Please let us know how this or other work affects driveability and timing. Yeah I ended up paying for the leakdown test. Ended up building a smoke machine from a youtube video to see where smoke escaped from the air intake or exhaust plumbing but workshops often have these. Gotta love partsouq eh except when they refund something as out of stock and then send an e-mail after shipping saying the part's back in stock. haha all good fun .
  13. I looked at the before & after logs - after the fuel pump changed IAM increased and stayed higher. Strangely the fuel trims didn't change much but guess it would only need a brief lean moment to knock as you say. Chopped the old filter open with a saw - didn't seem too dirty inside but wouldn't really know. I changed the fuel filter once before last year but it didn't make much of a difference to the engine computer so I'm thinking it was the pump that helped here unless I did the filter wrong first time around.
  14. Mine did for ages. Like yourself and Caleb it bugged me because it didn't drive like an 3.0 but also that IAM would change weekly, even on the same fill of fuel (98 RON), weather so on. I had an e-tuner work on it before learning basic open source tuning but neither helped much aside from using heaps of fuel. Then had Tactrix log full time to SD card awhile and loaded it all into a database to analyse the parameters when the worst feedback or rough knock correction happened. Highway gradients in 5th would trigger changes which is lugging but other times it would jump around in benign driving conditions. By then I loved reading and learning anything on the H6 3.0's here or other sites, still do. But back to hardware. IAM's been higher but more importantly stable and driving better with recent fixes however it's just a month in. Also it's Autumn so things could change when warmer humid weather arrives, or before. Most of these helped my car, you might have done them already but if not I hope they help ; Cylinder compression & leak down test. For sanity and to make sure I wasn't spending up on a no good engine. Regular servicing. Just good fluids, genuine filters & parts as we don't know what the previous owners did & our cars are fussy as. Check the plastic air chamber that sits behind the throttle body. There's a known vertical crack that opens up front and centre. Also the join seam that runs around its circumference can peel open a little. They can cause vacuum leaks but are easily filled with JB Plasti Weld. Check the catalytic converter covers, they are made of mild metal and should have a couple mm gap around the pipe at the forward and rear openings. Mine were rusted around the bolts & the ends smashed right up onto the exhaust pipe plus small stones trapped inside. These factors can make a vibration that the knock sensors shouldn't hear . Change the in tank fuel filter & strainer. I ended up changing the fuel pump as well which is provided with a new strainer but you can buy them separately. This change was also reflected on the knock logged.
  15. Likely the ECU is still learning. Could've reset back or settled on 0.5 tho unusual. Mine needs 10 minutes gentle driving followed by some wide open throttle to add timing.
×
×
  • Create New...