Andy_Mac
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Posts posted by Andy_Mac
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@B4 2000 Gonna put spacers on them at all? I've always liked those ones besides the terrible factory offset
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On 9/10/2023 at 3:30 PM, Gripless said:
Most brands are made in China anyway.
often they skip some finishing steps. Could be they skipped a chemical wash or final bake to save money.
That or failing some form of quality control. I've purchased a few things as tests that look identical as other ones I've already had besides casting damage etc-
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You'll probably have better luck asking on one of the Facebook groups, besides @B4Gordon I don't think many of us have had much to do with 5th gens
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1 hour ago, Batbaruman said:
thats some nice finds. might need to get the pulley cover myself.. was going to DIY one with some alum sheets i got ages ago but been on the backburner for years 🙃 if someone gets the short shifter, would be keen on reviews.. not sure how much better it gets but as you say does feel pretty short already from factory.
I've got a mint condition black grimmspeed one I'll be parting ways with very shortly since it doesn't work with reverse manifold
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May have found the cause of the mystery front end clunk that started recently 😅
@B4 2000 What's with the odd comp cover rotation? Is it going to have a 90 welded straight on it going forwards?
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Cam tools are good to have. I got a set from TM in a hurry that'll surely be aliexpress quality but still work as intended without the massive markup from real brands
That brake booster bracket could be a good way to go. I tried hacking up a cusco one to fit past my WG actuator but never quite worked
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1 hour ago, Gripless said:
The ‘eventually’ part says sell it.
If you don’t have the funds to do it now then sell before it becomes a money pit.
Also doesn’t manual conversion require cert etc now, was way easier before.
Hasn't it always needed a cert because of the brake pedal swap? It has been that way for at least as long as I can remember-
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Probably not worth it. Converting these to manual is a pretty complex process so only really worth doing on a limited edition one or low k’s on the body
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13 hours ago, Gripless said:
Well gearbox rebuilt and setup correctly.
holly s*** what a difference.
Now no gear shifter slop as it had previously even with all rubber bushings replaced.no whine on lift off either
Was anything properly damaged or just typical age related wear? -
38 minutes ago, Banksy02 said:
So I have a update. Took it to Crowes. They found it still misfiring on 3. Took the coil out and swap cylinders and the fault followed. Tested the brand new coils. 2 were running at 7v. Tested another subies coils in mine - all then ran at 12. So ordered me yet more coils these ones ran at 12v and now I haven't had a issue since. The head mechanic there said it was a weird issue which he hadn't run into before. I'm just glad all it needed was more new coils....
Weird, were they genuine ones or aftermarket? Genuine ones are usually reliable as hell
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@MattyMo has the same style thing. Think it was the idoing version but I'm not super clued up on them other than that there are a couple of hardware variations out there with some being ok and others being rubbish.
You're on FB aye? Join the hatch messenger group as there will be a bunch of guys there that have tried them. I prefer the tried and true solutions from mainstream brands for audio quality and response but they do have their benefits with running on the android platform
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Couldn't tell you if there's any differences between the factory one but PBMS lists the PW TMIC as fitting both GR and VA which must mean they're close enough
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Never heard of m45 but crowes and sas are pretty decent. Anyone somewhat specialising in Subaru’s should make it easier than a generic mechanic not familiar with any quirks these have.
What was the cel you had? Or was that just a misfire on that one cylinder?
What's the engine km and oil thickness used? It's not uncommon for the avcs curves to be a bit laggy if cold or the strainer is partially blocked.
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Has he had spark plugs and coils out and test fired them to prove they are all working fine? I had a spare coil that would work for a few mins then fail for a few then come back again. Is he doing any logging to see what parameters spike/fall over when it does start to run rough? AVCS is a good thought as it'll behave weirder when the oil is cold if partially blocked then come right once thinned out
If he has no luck just take it to SAS or Crowesport
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Worth asking in the Legacy loonies FB page, not sure if anyone on here is particularly clued up on the H6’s
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3 hours ago, Gripless said:
Most cars only have 2
Anything pre turbo would kill exhaust pulses so unlikely one in up pipe.
dunno about anything on this side of the world but the US had a heap with uppipe cats. Only ever a single scroll thing but a major headache for them as they had a tendency to break down and kill turbos. -
Fan wise you’re probably best getting a second hand one from a wrecker like Subidoo spares. Shouldn’t cost too much since they aren’t exactly high demand items.
the lock issue is a bit weird. By floppy I assume you mean you can pull the handles with no resistance like they would be when in the locked state?-
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Mine still isn’t reliable enough yet to be taking part in any track work
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3 hours ago, boon said:
If the rebuild was 23kk ago how come the cambelt's let go already, please tell me someone didn't rebuilt the shortblock and slap the same belt back on...
Pistons are probably fine unless you smacked a valve so hard the head of it came off and bounced around the chamber for a while, in which case the block is probably toast too. We bought a motor that had seized the cambelt (when the chassis rail hit the cam pulley, lol) and the head itself and pistons were ok, just needed valves.
10/14 hours labour feels pretty light for engine out and rebuild heads? But then the parts cost shouldn't be massive either.
that’s what I was thinking. That’s not a decent check over and measure everything job in that amount of time, more of an autonomous replace the bare minimum.
Even for someone who does it every day there’s quite a few hrs in removal and reinstall, but you could do that yourself and save a decent chunk of cash
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From the looks of it that’s from a rev D Legacy. There were a few changes with the D and anything earlier as it was essentially V7 STI based rather than …5,6 based like older ones. From memory I believe it was cam/crank position stuff that is different but there was possibly more
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doesn’t really apply to you since your top mount but I quite like the look of the setup they’ve gone for with these nozzles. Looks very OEM+
https://motoiq.com/project-gd-sti-adding-an-intercooler-sprayer-to-a-front-mount-intercooler/
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12 minutes ago, boon said:
Now do it with the factory manifold and a RHD car. Stock location turbos blow ass, anyone spending the money to make 500hp but then getting all funny about an extra couple of grand to move the turbo is.... a silly sausage, IMO.
Things have come a long way in the last few years though. They’re not all big ass cores jammed into tiny housings to give disappointing results anymore. I was reading his article about these precision ones a while back and they look pretty decent and shouldn’t be too hard to fit.
Slightly limited with intake sizing and whatnot but it’s a decent improvement.
But in reality if you’re aiming for 500whp rotated does open the door to far more options that ‘should’ work better -
This may be simple for you in your field but this seems way too techy for me.
ECU control is nice but could you not have some form of super basic controller with a contact thermometer on the backside of the intercooler outlet to let you know if temp is getting up and then have it run for a max amount of time and then shut off -
Is it pre or post facelift? You shouldn’t have to connect those plugs for facelift. What vehicle type have you used? Subarucan?
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where to buy CVT body control valve (valve body)?
in Gearbox and Drivetrain
Posted
Good find, I'd tried to find a substitute PN but none of them were available anywhere, but yea a wrecker trans is possibly a better way to go