telemekas

That may explain it. So lets check it out to confirm. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,11508.0.html The diagram needs to be modified for your car. No:1,2,3,5,6,8 and 12 are correct No:10 now goes to a step-up pipe which connects to the intake near where No 8 joins to the Pressure Relief Valve. No: 11 not used

Do you have 3 pipes or 4 pipes comming from the manifold. The later Rev D has only 3 pipes and hose No 11 became redundant.

There should be four pipes comming from the manifold. The centre two pipes should be going to the BBOD. Track the centre two pipes 11 & 12 back to the BBOD. What year and model car do you have?

No need to remove the intercooler.

There is a diagram on this page showwing where No 11 goes to. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,11508.0.html BBOD = Black Box Of Death = Solenoid Box

Yes just replace it with a longer vacuum line. The seal/gasket should be reusable as long as it has not been cracked or deformed. No need to stick it.

From the ECU case ag443 the ROM ID is A4SHCOOH I can send you a copy of your ECU rom hex file and the XML definition to generate the maps for the tuner. Let me know your email address.

No 11 connected to metal pipe going to the manifold. There is an Absolute Pressure Sensor in the solenoid box for No 11.

Since the tuner has the TACTRIX cable he should be able to access the ECU depending on the program he is using ie:EcuFLASH, ROMRAIDER/Enginuity or EcuEdit. What he may not be able to do is open the ROMs hex file using a definition set or decoder. The full definitions for the TT are not readily available. Only the DTC are. I can supply you with the definition either from the ROM ID ie A4SH----- You will have to ask the tuner for it. The ECU case will have an ID as listed ag--- Legacy Twin Turbo - ag440 Legacy Twin Turbo - ag441 Legacy Twin Turbo - ag451 Legacy Twin Turbo - ag850 2581 Legacy Twin Turbo - ag850 2591 These are from EcuTek Let me know what the ID is. As for the water injection this may be the way to go, if the timing pull/retard is not sufficient to solve the problem.

How easy is it to map using this open source software or does one need to have a readily available codes ? #EcuFlash is easy to use, tuner should not have any problems. Copy the ECU rom hex file into the EcuFlash program and find out the ECU Rom ID it should start with A4SH---- Once you have that I can send you the XML (the hex decoder)to use in EcuFlash. This will then open the 2D,3D maps etc. Im not sure but i am willing to give it a shot . #OK Though i am uncertain what type of ODBII cable to get so that i can flash as i have seen the tactrix cable but its like a wireless dongle ? #The TACTRIX connects the car OBDII port via cable to USB port on your PC. Im not sure if that what i need to get please could you point me in the right directions? #Giving it a go. My other question is my tuner wants to charge me 750 usd and thats not evenfitting a after market ecu just opening my ecu and flashing it ? I am confiused should it cost this much ? #Yes for a complete tune may require 30-50 reflashes as you adjust map parameters and run the car on the dyno to see the effect.(adjust reflash-->adjust reflash-->etc) he says thats including dyno time as well? #Dyno usually charge approx $150/hr and a tune may require 2-3 hours depending on difficulty and TT are more involved as the ECU runs two boost maps.. #The tuner can 'just' pull the timing for your low 93 octane fuel and should be minimal cost.

A possible option for you depending on budget etc. Reflash/Logging/Diag Codes for Liberty/Legacy Rev D (DENSO ECU) Purchase EZYFLASH unit from here:http://www.ezy-flash.com/products Purchase additional tune set ROMS from here:http://www.chiptorque.com.au/Ezy-FLASH_Pro.html A more do it yourself option: Purchase a OBD II cable http://www.tactrix.com/ Download software EcuFlash:http://www.docstoc.com/docs/2141081/EcuFlash-Tutorial or RomRaider:http://www.romraider.com/ Once you have your ECU Rom ID ie:A4SH---- Let me know and I can send you the XML so you or your tuner can open the Rom maps for adjustment/tuning

Example: Legacy Twin Turbo - af330 Subaru Legacy BH5 EJ20 Turbo ECU CPU L3 22611 AF330 JDM

The primary turbos VF13,VF16,VF18,VF20,VF25,VF26,VF31 and PE1016F are direct bolt on replacements. However the wheel sets, bearings and turbine A/R does vary between turbos. The VF33 primary is the exception with its larger compressor inducer (60mm)and exducer(50mm).

Heat shield (between the CHRA and turbine wheel) this will lock done when you attach the turbine housing and secure with C-clamp

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbo-Repair-Rebuild-kit-SUBARU-STI-IHI-RHF55-VF30-VF35-/280571807560?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4153620748 http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-forced-induction/185596-ihi-rhf55-vf39-vf30-turbocharger-rebuild-how.html http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/turbos/technical_data/ihi_RHF5/ With rebuilds I usually supply the rebuild kit and get it done by turbo specialists.Due to shaft wear etc the wheel set (compressor and turbine) may require a rebalance and possible replacement.. Plus they have the tools to do the rebuild.

The VF27 secondary turbo good choice. The VF20 primary same as the earlier VF16 (wheel sets). Recommend for primary getting the later VF25 or VF26 to match (wheel sets) the VF27 or unmatched VF31

It is possible yours may have been removed? However you need it for boost control with the subaru two port solenoid. http://www.scribd.com/doc/104227/How-Subarus-Factory-Boost-Control-System-Works-v11-01

Open bonnet. Standing looking in, go to right hand side where the battery is. Just above, in the inner wing, you will see the vac lines numbered 10 and 23. Hose 23 (to wastegate solenoid) You need to unplug hose 23 and not number 10 near the passenger wing. This will slow down your boost to about 5-7 PSI and you need to gently run the car for about 5 minutes. (essentially clears the line) Then after reconnect the hose 23 and do the Mod with hose 10 Mod hose 10 (bleed off from wastegate solenoid) In line 10 there is a small hose joiner approx 15cm down the hose. Gently prise the hose apart here. Leave the end going into the inner wing open. The other end heading away into the engine intake gets blanked off. (essentially shortening the bleed off hose length/restriction) Then secure the now loose hose 10 and know where find it if you change your mind

Their is a nice pic of a VF32 with the large actuator cannister here. You can see the rod with long central adjustment connector and lock nuts at each end plus the ECV. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger-SUBARU-LEGACY-RHF4-Twin-Turbo-VF25-VF32-/280566977606?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4153185446

The return rpm 3300 may need to be increased. Trying to go on boost again (ie 3400rpm) before it has dropped back to 3300 rpm from 4500+ rpm you will be in parallel mode. The ECV (large cannister/actuator)is located on the drivers side of the engine.There is an actuator rod connecting it to the ECV . ECV can be fine tuned. "You can adjust the actuator rod on the ECV to optimise the changeover. Start the car cold (unless you have heatproof fingers) and undo the locknuts on the ECV adjustment rod and wind it out until you hear it rattle, then wind it in till the rattle stops and then another complete turn then redo the locknuts. This allows it to leak a bit of boost on the primary before the changeover actually starts so it reduces it a bit. You have to play with it a little to get the right amount of leakage or it makes less of a difference or you cant reach full boost on the primary and get poor primary response" quote billsy

Appears maybe that your ECV (exhaust control valve) is staying open and you are in parallel mode at low RPM. What have you set crossover rpm (valve open etc) and return rpm (valve close etc) points on the Seq Controller.

For low end response with matched wheel sets: VF31 with VF32 or VF25 with VF27 For more top end: VF26 with VF27 or PE1016F(VF31 on a shaved P16 housing) with VF32 Depending on whats available you can use either VF32 or VF27 as a secondary as they have similar flow rates.

"Recommend in order of response VF31, VF25 or VF26" The VF33 is ball bearing turbo with P11 turbine housing. Therefore the fastest responding of all primary turbos.Has the same wheel set as a secondary VF32. The VF25 and VF26 are non ball bearing with P12 and P14 turbine housings respectively.Both use the same wheel sets as a secondary VF27. All the other suitable primary turbos though they are ball bearing, sit on P16 turbine housings.

The VF13 is the very first TT primary turbo. Therefore any primary turbo from then onwards would be an upgrade and will be a straight bolt up (with the exception of the VF33). Recommend in order of response VF31, VF25 or VF26.

What primary turbo is on your car now?