Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×


General Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


ReubenH last won the day on December 28 2023

ReubenH had the most liked content!

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    1998 BG GTB SIngle turbo
    1991 BC EJ25 converted
    1995 BG 250T runabout
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

ReubenH's Achievements


Authority (6/7)



  1. still on here bro?

  2. Any of the old school subie mechanics know the difference between the 4EAT transfer solenoids? My BG9A lists a part number not in stock on partsouq. But I have a part number which looks identical in the google image search listed for facelift BG's/late 90's, which is in stock... When it comes to hoiking used solenoids in, if the shoe fits, in she goes... But why did subaru have different part numbers? They don't supercede to eachother. Numbers that I'm aware of: Early - Bolt in the rear housing style BC - 31942AA070 - Listed agains a 91 facelift GT BG-A - 31942AA051 - As googled, "94 BG" BG-A - 31942AA061 - Listed against a 95 250T BG-B/C - 31942AA090 - As googled "97 BG" Later - bolt onto trans style (from what I can see in the diagrams - found this listed for an SF5A im working on) SF-A - 31942AA103 The main question obviously is, if i order the facelift BG solenoid, will it work in my prefacelift BG? My assumption is yes, but I'm asking to double check if anyone knows if there will be issues with this. And lastly for those who have no idea WTF I'm yabbering about, if you've ever driven a 90's auto Subaru, and when you turn hard lock on a corner, the transmission binds up, and the car sorta stops moving. If you power though it you often get a chunk-chunk-chunk coming from the gear box (often miss diagnose as binding rear diff), or your inside wheel braking traction and slipping forward, as iff you had a locked diff. This is whats wrong with it, these little slolenoids I've been talking about fail, and the centre diff locks up. If the car binds completely as described, chances are the centre diff clutch packs have eaten grooves into the clutch housing, and replacing the solenoid will no longer fix the issue completely once this has happened (though can still help a lot to replace it). If the trans power light blinks at you every time you start the car up, and there's a slight resistance to turning on full lock (i.e. the car will stop driving itself forward as auto's do), the solenoid is still failed. but the centre diff hasn't wrecked itself yet, and replacing the solenoid should completely fix you're issue. (Of course check your trans error code to confirm it is the transfer solenoid, aka duty solenoid C, before buying parts...
  3. I was thinking about giving racebrakes a call anyway to bounce ideas off them. Might just do that.
  4. Well stopping force is fine, they can lock up if you stomp it hard enough. Pedal feel is more what I’m shooting for, I figure bore size will have more affect on pedal feel than pad material. But I may be wrong? I’m certainly no expert on this matter.
  5. Seems promising. Might have to get it customised too, it’s starting to look like 1-1/16” is ABS only.
  6. So i’ve Upgraded the brakes on my BC. Factory non ABS, so has the 1” 4-port master. The other option for these cars was ABS, same design, but the two bottom ports are blanked off, and it has a 1-1/16th” bore. Now on the BC with the old 277mm 2-pots, I had added a BH large brake booster, and the pedal feel was great, nice and firm, very responsive (it’s a great upgrade for first gen owners with stock brakes) Now though, after upgrading to 4-pots, the pedal feel has gone back to what it felt like from factory... a bit spongy (not bad, just not as nice). i assume this is due to the fact you gotta send more fluid into the 4-pots? So you need a longer strike to get the same pedal feel? Am I also right in assuming that going to a 1-1/16” would compensate nicely for this? thats why I’m here asking, I don’t know if that’s going to do anything, by stepping up to the next larger master... Next question is, does anyone know what master came on the non ABS 4-pot equipped GC’s? Was it 1” or 1-1/16”? If it was larger, and had the 4-ports off the master, easy, I just need one of them... if not... we’ll there is a place I can send a 1” non ABS master to get bored out to 1-1/16, and then re-sealed, they quoted about $200, which I thinks pretty reasonable. So brake experts please advise, is the bigger bore a worthwhile upgrade to suit my new 4-pots?
  7. That’s the feeling I’m getting too. I managed to cure the misfire on both these cars I worked on this week with just new plugs (the both had standard, not iridiums). On the first one I replaced just the orings to stop the external leak, I may call him back to chuck some crimp terminals on the stop the oil pushing further through. The second nicer one the guys elected to replace the sensors, i think I’ll do crimp terminals on that one too to future proof the job.
  8. Yeah I was thinking something like that, I like the crimping on some terminals idea too, as a future proof for when the new sensors let go. As for cleaning out the oil from the rest of the loom, I’m at a bit of a loss as to how that might be possibly, thinking it may be impossible.
  9. These sensors are going to be a common thing for me I think! I found this thread again a few weeks ago through some random googling, and guess what, the next day I had a customer complain about an oil smell when the cars hot, and sure enough these little AVCS position sensors were the culprit, leaking externally. I did find the are dead easy to replace if the rocker cover is off, and given rocker cover leaks are the most common oil leak on a Subie, not a bad idea to go for the up sell and do both the sensors and rocker covers at the same time, saves you plenty of cussing when changing these sensors. I did that job yesterday on a 99 250T, and today I had a 98 BH Lancaster come in with a misfire, and guess what, same bloody sensors. Also leaking externally, and from the rocker covers, and also had oil at the body harness connector like the 250T. Partsouq have the sensors in stock at reasonable prices, not quite the $400 genuine wanted a few years back!!! But I could see no supersession in part number which is a bit of a let down. Is it worth trying to clear the oil out of the loom? The 250T I worked on yesterday the guy bought for $1100, these things are hardly worth the money chasing after the big proper fix now, almost a case of just slapping the new sensors in and being done with it! Maybe worth checking the ECU and acting if the oils made it that far... A bloody bugger of a problem really. Anyone have stories of what happens when it’s left for a long time and the ECU has copped it?
  10. ReubenH

    EJ18 Parts

    I may be able to attain said pipe for you, but I'm sure it's the same as any onther non turbo of the era.
  11. As bout as many members as you'd expect from a small population of 30k or so! Mostly offline subie mates rather than forum goers though. We had a pretty strong contingent for flatnats, something like 8 cars! Not bad.
  12. Almost 10 years later, I'm hunting the internet high and low for DAYS trying to find a BH5A twin turbo pinout to diagnose a no start... and google leads me right here! Thank F*** I uploaded these, cause 3 or 4 computers later, they are gone from my hard drive! Anyone have the complete A-C rev BH5 turbo service manual? I can only find D-rev AUDM complete, or A rev USDM N/A... Anyway, I've re-archived these on my google drive, I ought to make a public drive for posterity.
  13. BG5B Means you have the solid lifter facelift EJ20H. No 4-plug ECU, this conversion should be exactly the same as a GTB 20R converision, only you're limited to V3/4 WRX AUTO ecu's that run the smooth 20G with grey tops and i think purple AFM.
  14. I didn't see mention here what EJ20H was in use. Is it a BG5A HLA (ribbed rocker covers) 20H, or a facelift auto solid lifter (smooth rocker cover) 20H? I'm going to assume it's the former hydraulic type. I've come to love these engines over the years, I used to hate the hydraulic engines, but I see their charm these days. Good old school blocks that make an awesome noise, and can still be made to make a bit of power. If it's a good block, don't feel obliged to pull it out and put something wanky and modern in it when you don't have to. Just use a WRX ecu for the conversion, or better yet, a link if budget allows (even an old possum link can be had for about $200 these days). If it's a 4-plug loom, it will not be pleasant you re-pin, but you can choose to go to either a 3-plug or a 4-plug. Going to a 4-plug is probably the harder choice, as you'll have to revert to older sensors (though will let you run V2 WRX ECU's which are perfect for that block/combustion chamber/head flow etc), going to a 3-plug would be fine. in which case, a V3/4 WRX Auto/wagon ECU will be the go, and should make the same power as the factory BG5A ECU.
  15. No it's not, my dads BH5A has a rev D motor I put in it. No re-wire required. What you gotta do is whip the intake manifold off the Rev-D engine, and slap on the car's factory manifold. Essentially what you're doing is only using the rev-D block, but everything else about it is factory. You also need to swap over the timing cam pulley, and crank sprocket, as the timing marks differ between them. If you want to make use of the pink injectors, tough. Easiest way will be to get a link, then you can use what bits you feel like, and no re-loom required. Maybe a re-pin of the rev-d engine harness or something if you make a hybrid setup.
  • Create New...