shore_boy

I\'ll be taking my car to Hampton for a play day next weekend. This will be my first track day. I\'m real keen and looking forward to it however, i\'d like to make sure the car is going to have the best chance of holding it\'s own against a newbie driver. I know that for Hempton i\'ll be needing a helmet and overalls but on the site it makes no mention of a fire extinguisher (unless i\'m a fool and missed that part). Some advision from those who have been regarding this would be great We\'ll be taking the car on a trailer so that if the worst happens we can transport it home. Pessimistic yes but who knows... The things I\'ve done so far in preparation are: Check motor oil which looks nice and clean. I\'d like to know how much to overfill the oil as I am worried about bearings. I\'ve replaced the fluid in the transmission. I\'ve replaced brake fluid and bled the brake lines. I\'ve had my front discs machined to take my new EBC pads well (EBC yellow stuffs). So yes done the pads a well. Rear pads are endless pads and have plenty of life in them. My tires are Eagle F1\'s with about 4mm tread (are these good for a dry day?) I have most of the mods that are mentioned on the building a track car on a budget too so I hope that it\'s sufficient! Let me know what you think, cheers!

I completely agree with you and I do not endorse this by any means. However, it is an option which answers his question...

Yes it does look as if it was a very poof install on Subaru\'s behalf but I can\'t really come to the conclusion that the fault was on the factories behalf as we\'re all aware that there are very few Impreza\'s that have had an easy life. Just beware of pulling it apart because I\'m sure that the parts must\'ve been pressed together. You will NEVER get them back in and seated perfectly. I can say that the part that sits within the ring is wider on one side that on the other and is not flush (if I had a vernier I would\'ve shown that). I see where you\'re coming from but having come to the conclusion that it is not the outer ring but instead the inner ring that is too wide to fit I honestly think that whoever purchased the car with that installed never had a reverse gear. Yes all is working perfectly and there is absolutely no play in my fifth and reverse gears. Really pleased with the result and how it all worked out.

Lift it and put a nut underneath or weld one back on to the chassis would be my first options. Or a self tapping fastener if you\'re feeling lazy.

To answer your questions... First photo is the 5th gear synchro hub assembled and loosely assembled just so you have an idea of what it looked like before and after. The following photos are compilations of some of the parts that came out. The video explains my thoughts and I make mentios that you should have a look at the photos before hand because you get a better idea of what i\'m trying to say. I did also say that I\'ll describe here in words but I don\'t think that\'s necessary anymore... ****Please note that in the video I say that info can be found \'on my forum\' I mean on my thread and I also say that i rested the synchro \'on a punch\' i meant to say vice. **** Anyways, here\'s the link

I\'ve done this before and I didn\'t use anything but patience and a piece of wood. Dont use scrapers or anything metal as you will ruin the trim.

[quote name='evowrx said: Are those black/scarred bits the weld dude? Absolutely stoked to see some take the time to view the video. Really appreciate that guys. The video was just a result of wanting to share something with the forum rather than always asking for something. As for your questions I\'ll answer them tonight with some pictures and potentially a descriptive video as I\'m at uni currently.

So after numerous attempts on Friday night I finally found my problem! The problem was that I could get every gear BUT reverse. So after reading through DIY threads numerous times it was clear that you either get every gear or no gears at all. Here are a few photos I\'ve robbed from ETF\'s thread, all credit to him and here\'s a link to his write up (http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,26913.0.html) about the /replacementof the synchro that I replaced about two weeks ago. When the synchro is pushed out toward the \'claws\' of the clasp it is in reverse. This is the opposite of fifth gear and this is where the problem was. Here is a video describing what I believe caused my input shaft nut to come loose and what prevented us from putting this all back the very first time two weeks ago. Sorry for the poor dialogue, it\'s the first time for me so hopefully it\'s alright. Skip to 1:50 if you don\'t want to hear about what i understand regarding the functions, parts and assembly. Thanks to everyone who has provided feedback and answered my questions throughout.

I couldn\'t tell you if they\'re easy to replace or not sorry. You could also try to run the starter on the battery? That way you can eliminate the possibility of a faulty starter and move on to the leads.

Potentially the leads to the started or the fluid level of the battery. You checked battery on a multimeter? If you can rolling start I would look toward the starter leads.

Will it crank before being jump started?

This is true, the scan sheet they will give you will show what the ECU is recording. The one I got did not even show safe operational parameters. Also it is not specific by any means. Mine showed things like my throttle position and other irrelevant recordings from sensors. Although no guarantees that connecting the plugs under the dash will show anything either. I guess the main question is how much is your time worth and is it worth it to troubleshoot on your own.

2000 grit sandpaper (with water) and cutting compound is a good option for headlights. Helps a huge amount if you have a buffer too.

Yeah buddy. Less attention from the popo too i\'ve noticed.

Try a new afm as suggested. Previously I had an R34 Skyline (yes coupe) and it had an issue with power loss in the high rpm range and also it was running rich (over fuelling). I took it to Nissan to have a diagnostic scan done and they didn\'t find anything. I replaced the AFM as per some forum recommendations and never looked back. Don\'t be scared to go to a reputable wrecker like \'all subaru parts world\' as they provide plug and play warranties and the parts that they do sell are all tested. I\'ve never had an issue with them. Although I could be wrong as we\'re speaking about electrical components and as always nothing beats new (except price). Also going back to the mechanics suggestion of a chipped/aftermarket ECU is not terrible as I know earlier Possumlink ECU\'s have issued when it comes to idle. Electrical faults are not fun... Ask subirex if he can post a little something about what he noted on the car. No harm in a second opinion.

Nope I have a wagon in steel blue. Quite like the extra space and performance loss is very minimal. You could always try yourself plenty of threads regarding general servicing and tune ups here and on the net. You\'ll even find them specific to your engine. Unfortunately cheap mechanics don\'t really exist. Everybody likes to think their time is worth as mush as someone elses. Cant blame them, so would I.

Yeah I\'d agree with that. I did think the power difference was substantial and I\'m also pretty confident my comment was result of tired suspension and factory parts. Gc8\'s are old cars now. However, I\'m lost as to how you didn\'t find different injectors and a vf22 in there. I do miss the vf22 my 28 gives up at about 6700...

Gotta start somewhere! My starting point was the day i purchased a WRX.

I don\'t mean to be a prick, but I thought that my "JDM" WRX was a world apart from my WRX and again with my STI. The only thing about the "JDM" WRX is that I felt the suspension and components were not up to spec to handle the extra power.

Mechanic is probably right. Although I do think I heard a missfire? Just check leads and plugs as mentioned before. The ecu wont tell you if the afm is dead. Well mine didn\'t... lol. ECU codes are more for sensors and specifically emission standards. AFM is a meter (as the acronym would suggest). I like the colour!

My car had rough idle and seemed like it was running on three until the ecu was surged and died. Mechanic replaced the afm and ecu. Car was fine after that.

A clutch shudder due to your clutch can be due to bending the clutch plate upon install. I did this when I tried to install my own clutch... I did make it about 5 times better by adjusting the clutch pedal. Because before that it was literally violent as you describe.

If you need to fix the leak where the drive shaft meets the center diff you\'ll need to buy an \'o\' ring for that. Picture and part number are in my thread just below yours. You can do it with the transfer case on the car but mine was extremely tight and i had to be quite forceful to get the new one in and the old one out. Your issue could with idle could be rough idle? Caused by a few things unfortunately. Run a search for it. I\'m sure there will be a thread related to rough idle on the forum.

Put it together today and got it shifting etc. Must have knocked the shift rod out when I put the spring pin in... So out she comes for round 2!

Fark me sideways... I used this as a guide and everything worked well when I tested the shifter at first. All gears were taking and i could feel it in the shifter. Pop the sring pin into the shifter linkage and carry on installing all the way to the drive shaft, stop and give the shifter another go. Nothing... FFS! All coming back out. I feel ya mate you\'re not the only one. I can only asusme that i knocked it out whilst installing the spring pin.