scottiescottiescottie

Yea Im in the same boat, to get the banjo bolt out of my 05LGT it would mean the removal of my turbo. even after removing the side engine mount you cant get it out. So I just change the oil and filter every 4000 Kms...

Well I have been busy but here are the inlet and outlet tubes I turned up on the lathe today... Also the outlet end tank rough shape in plasticard... Just the mounts and BOV templates to make, final touches to existing templates... then all the templates are off to get made of sheet alloy then ill tip them into submission and tack it all up! ;D Thinking of using pems for the BOV bolts. On an important note has anyone got a good link OR experience with fast acting temp sensors that I could utilize for my testing?

TL;DR???

thanks... now to sell some engine loom...

Just one question... I got a V4 manifold but looking at it all I am pretty sure I just reuse the wiring from the TT manifold right?

Well here are my end tank patterns... I made them out of platicard but this should transfer nicely to sheet alloy more to come...

So trying to mimik the advantages of the tube and fin core... I am keen to cut tubes into half round and weld them to the leading edges internally and externally. This should provide a smoother entry to the air in the per core end tank. On the "post core" tank I want to create a 'V' shape to emulate a tear drop and decrease air separation and vortices as the high speed air exits the tube. (seperation and vortices on the back of a round let alone a flat!) Cutting the tubes accross the 90mm face is easy but the front 280mm face may need to be machined to ensure accuracy and good contact for heat transfer. The two wall thicknesses combined create a 48% contact with the external facing which should easily be enough to retain good heat transfer between the face and half round. Bear in mind that the front face of a bar and plate core is not like a tube and fin in that its actually quite thick by comparison... The front "leading edge" of the core is 5.5mm thick so will actually be primarily acting as a heat sink than a heat exchange surface as seen below... End tanks are coming along nicely (but cheaply!) so will post progress soon!

Have you seen these guys? http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=216&products_id=1006&osCsid=f72e1b1ef6bc91ef17988f79d015e6d2 How does your settup compare to this? what are the differences?

Love this angle! LGT's 03-08 are in my opinion the best lookin leggy Subaru made!

Thanks for the leg up mate, I have seen it before bar the last more scientific post... great stuff!

the cooler inlet and outlets were the same external diameter but different internal diamters but only by 3mm... Got some inlet outlet mounting rounds turned up as per images... also got my cores!!! IMG_2951 by flamshackle They are $460 for the core alone from Heat exchangers christchurch... I am not entirely happy with them at this price but its the only local vacuum brazed bar and plate I could find. IF ANYONE KNOWS WHERE TO GET GOOD CORES FROM PLEASE LET ME KNOW... I intend to weld the tanks flush with the internal tube entry points as below pic shows... IMG_3170 by flamshackle The core weighs double the factory item WITHOUT TANKS! this will ensure good heat sink qualities... good for road use upgrade... will be very interesting to see the test results when it comes to speed of heat transfer on this core :-\ IMG_3174 by flamshackle I am planning to make up a rectangle to oval for the end tank to work for the side as seen below... will be a mission but should flow better than the "Hyperflow" end tank design I think... IMG_3180 by flamshackle Anyway I am working on the end tanks in plastic first then will transfer patterns to sheet alloy and tip the round sections... should look ace!

so is the top mount you are using a standard twin turbo cooler boxed in? simple and effective if so... the pics look tidy mate good work

Far out! your total build cost is $650??? thats what I am thinking my costs will be for an air to air top mount... Thats a flippin reasonable price mate!

My plan is to compare mine to another after market TM and FM cooler (air to air) The option to compare it to yours will be great too! flick me a PM later on when the coolers made up and we can sort out how to pull that off That heat soak test is actually a stroke of genius for comparable results under WOT. [quote name='soopersubaru said: P.S Just get wound up with peeps baggin what they do not understand,, Then I instinctively react too it! All good sounds like typical kiwi behavior to me... We are the worst in the world for baggin stuff before we even listen... got some pics to upload tonight of the progress! its coming along slow but steady.

But yes! very keen to chat and compare some data :~) I think my theory at this stage is that the water to air will be better in stop start environments but air to air with water sprey will bs better on constant running. Open to being wrong however.

Seriously, I think if you got some conclusive comparible results instead of hostile posts like your one above you would sell units.

You can buy that direct from the manufacturer "hyperflow" and IMHO is one of the best top mount upgrades on the market... I personally hope to make my design flow slightly better than this with a couple of small improvement. As for the cost I really don't know but will work out costs and keep it as cheap as possible :~) [quote name='soopersubaru said: $ 250 for the top mount rework, Radiator for front $275 (brand new) Intake manifold thermally coated $350 then a circ pump, and water lines to be added. All up around $950. The one shown is the Mk3 version. Would like to fit another one and hopefully recover some costs once others realise it does work extremely well for the road car. (Soon to fit to our rally car too) I did initially suggest $2000 as a retail cost installed. THEN the bagging began!! No doubt some will climb into me again on this thread. AS IF I GIVE A DAMN!! It works and that's that!! Well I guess some conclusive and clear results would win people over to see if it really works well or not. After reading your thread (and knowing what I know about infer oolong) it looks like it would work very well! $2000 does seem like a lot of $ though? It would have to bs considerably better than an air to air upgrade to justify it being twice the price I would think. Good stuff for developing something cool for your own car though!!! I love a bit of home made action! Keeps the bigger performance upgrade companys real!

Hey soopersubaru, yea I did see it. looks great :~) How much did it cost you to make?

Anyway I got my jig sorted! I know its average but im using custom wood for the jig! (cos its free) standard intercooler is a super restrictive unit! I can see loads of potential improvements already... anyway here she is! the jig almighty! IMG_3191 by flamshackle internal shot of heinous internal passage for the air to "flow" through... IMG_3171 by flamshackle the jig with standard cooler on it... IMG_3190 by flamshackle So next job is to get the cores I ordered on there and start fabing the mock plastic end tanks to make my patterns from... also a couple of other ideas Im working on to make this bad boy flow like a river! ;D will update soon...

Hey all, Iv looked and looked at all the options for intercooler upgrades for my LGT below... The child's writing about the wheel weight was for a US forum sorry... 261 Jaemyn & Chris smaller by flamshackle, on Flickr As far as intercoolers go- I have not been overly impressed. What I have discovered is that most if not all the manufacturers I have researched make small to large compromises in the flow of the cores and tanks based on mass production, men compensating for something, easy of manufacture and the bottom line design value (MAKING $ OUT OF US) With a little time and TLC I feel its wont be hard to do away with some of the shortcuts and build something that not only cools well but also FLOWS BETTER (more on this later...) Because of this I have decided to build my own top mount intercooler ;D Being one of the tight in the rear ended variety of persons I will develop and build three of this design, selling off two (to some lucky customers here in New Zealand) hopefully making my one essentially cost free! (Bar the stupid amount of time that will be spent on R+D) So this thread will cover the development and build over the next few months. My background is fabrication and I previously fabricated my own end tanks and front mount setup for my WRX race car. I am a busy man and dont have oodles of time but all that said it will be fun to get back into some fab work and doco the build for all to hassle and heckle! Its important to note as I dive into this that my project car is the JDM LGT (2.0 engine) with the tincey wincey twin scroll huffer (love that early boost!) So in light of this I have made the call to go with a top mount upgrade in keeping with the size of the 2.0 engine and my love of the sweet twin scroll response. A front mount would add lag and make this tiny wee cute little huffer of mine loose much of its shining qualities (in that it comes on boost VERY early). So if you interested keep in touch to see some dodgy jigs get built (custom wood I am thinking), wild exaggeration, ruthless pursuit of function over form and all of this will unfold in my living room! haha! PS I am presently also single turbo'ing my mates TT so the time is not easy to come by...

I have started this conversion with my mates car! Im pumped! Got the parts all off and the parts are coming in via trademe nice and steadily now. Just one question... I got a V4 manifold but looking at it all I am pretty sure I just reuse the wiring from the TT manifold right? Thanks mate for giving me the ability and confidence to do this im loving it!

Thanks for all the help all! great info. The box is built now (not to hard actually) and I am looking forward to seeing how she handles once the car is up and running :~) im in CHCH so might see some of you at the track one day.

the DCCD will be auto controlled by this... http://dccdpro.com/zcart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2 mechanical ABS??? [quote name='kamineko said: you will need to have the backlash reset though hmmm do you mean the shims at the end of the box where the transfer case bolts up? I didnt "reset" it but just tapped it down. Will this be bad? it shifts fine by hand?

Yea I put the crown wheel on to suit the box its going into. Now to find out what my rear diff ratio is!

Hey guys, clubsub has not been alot of help in the past but here goes... iv got a TV752VB4AA trans and want to put in a mechanical LSD front diff then attach the DCCD center. It all bolts in mechanically but I want to know if there is anything that I need to do to make this work? ie rear diff? does the front LSD from an STI change the ratios? I wouldnt have thought so since it uses the same crown wheel. The trans is normally 4.1 so does the front/center diff change modify that at all? are there any problematic issues here? thanks.