Rosssub

Last time I did it I think I just turned the wheel hard lock right and pulled the front edge of the splash guard out. Then took the solenoid out and used a lead from the battery to open and close it manually, then put cleaner in at 15 psi with a compressor. Then did the same with each BBOD solenoid too.

-Remove F/L wheel -Remove under guard/splash guard (now you see solenoid, near battery) -Unbolt the boost solenoid (2x10mm bolts IIRC) and let it hang from the 2 vac hoses/loom -Pull hose 10 from the solenoid (fluid will drain out this nipple on solenoid) -Pull hose 23 at the primary turbo \'T\' and pull enough back/clear so you can squirt into it hose 23 -Put the car in Diagnostic mode (G&B plugs under dash) and turn the ignition on so all solenoids start opening and closing=D mode -Squirt some carb cleaner into hose 23 then blow like a mother father -As you blow you\'ll feel the solenoid pulsating as the fluid bleeds through and cleans it -Repeat until fluid runs clean -Could even bleed the fluid into a glass jar so you can see what comes out -Done, put her back together If this doesn\'t sort it then it\'s on to the BBOD ;D

Cheers Paulngui, Loving the way it sounds. Weird but the car seems a bit slower with it on, the only reason I can come up with is loss of exhaust back pressure combined with my blocked/deformed inlet at the primary turbo? With increased exhaust flow the inlet can\'t keep up anymore?

Squirt it into hose 23 not hose 10 or it will just blow into your intake not through the solenoid. But doing it this way, all the crud that blows out is going straight into your primary turbo through the inlet pipe So maybe: *Disconnect hose 10 at the inlet as drain hose. *Block the open inlet nipple where hose 10 was just removed *Use hose 23 from primary to squirt. *But then when you put hose 23 back on all the carb cleaner will drain/vac through the bleed nipple straight into the primary turbo. So, maybe do it the old fashioned way?

The OEM just looks funny:

Yip just Autosol/rag/elbow grease. 3/4 of a tube and just over an hour, surprised me how well it came up too.

BBOD cleanout how to: http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/11043-code-66-and-boost-issueshow-to-clean-them-out/ Boost solenoid is inside passenger guard near battery, hose 10 & 23 lead to it.

Go Autosol Go. ;D Rub ,rub, rub, rub, rub, ruuuuuuuuuuuub, polish, ruuuuuuuuuuuuuuub, polish, ruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuub, polish. Before and after Growling nicely now.

Would the wining noise be from F or R diff, whichever is dealing with the broken CV?

My gauge is in Bar/kpa, so is the Zerosports controller boost display and turbo timer -20inhg = 0.677kpa x 100 kpa = 3.38639 x (inhg/10)

Something snapped in the centre diff?

Also only just clicked that the 25-30mm long off cut from the secondary outlet(47-60mm dia) is the perfect spacer for the primary side. ;D

Glad it\'s helping somebody, thanks to Telemekas/Zanzarah for getting the original made. OEM inlet pipe is fixed midway on 2 brackets (seen below), so the new silicone pipe could heat, soften and droop to sit on the block. I\'m going to cut slices out of the OEM pipe where the bracket mounts are to make plastic loop brackets to go around the silicone. Have also tied a Double layer of 2 inch heat wrap to the under side of the new pipe.

Needs 9 or 10 wires spliced into specific ECU loom wires. It\'s not too bad if you can read a wiring diagram and use a soldering iron.

With a TT, YES definitely. OEM change over from single to twin is just over 4000rpm, with the ZS controller you can adjust the change over rpm, I have mine set to 5000rpm for around town, so I can go a little higher between gear changes without it wanting to change to twin. But the main reason is VOD (valley of death), loss of boost at change over as the ECV pre-spools the secondary for smoother transition and to bring the secondary up to speed. The ZS controller takes over and can half you VOD, giving faster change-over. I had a terrible VOD now it\'s pretty much gone ;D

Why not : Had some copper wire and 2" exhaust wrap was only $4.44pr/m. Thought about it and the OEM inlet pipe is suspended on 2 midway brackets so the new heavy silicone pipe will heat up, soften and droop to sit hard on the block. I can also use the copper to suspend the inlet pipe from the manifold

Hmmm to wrap or not to wrap, maybe better off with a layer of wrap between the block and inlet pipe so it can still disperse but is protected from the block? If I had some wrap laying around I might but nah. After a good run the front edge of my TMIC is not far off the same temp as the manifold and the silicone joiner is still too hot to lean on. I imagine after the spacers go in the whole TMIC will be cooler and silicone joiner only just warm. I already brought the double OEM gaskets ($17.50 per set), just been out and spoken to a mechanic/motorsport mate. He says use the OEM gaskets too, phenolic being so smooth and hard it wont compress at all or seal well against alloy but the steel/paper will.

Dodgy TPS? Have a read of this thread: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f159/tps-settings-74887/ Should only be 4.5-5 ish volts at full throttle, 0.1-0.5 at idle or closed throttle. So your ECU is getting a WOT voltage at idle causing the high revs, but no CEL because the TPS is still sending back something.

Yeah with the manifold sitting 15-25 degrees cooler I might get 3-5 degree drop in charged inlet temp maybe, which is better than nothing. Less heat through the mani means less heat transferred into my TMIC which has to help. I\'m going to scrap the OEM gaskets, I figure the layer of steel will hold heat I\'m trying to disperse/block? Just the spacers with a skim of gasket silicone. I see torque specs for the non turbo manifold is 18.1 ftlbs, Guessing the turbo probably more like 24 ft/lbs? Closer I am the less chance of it leaking

Yeah no data Subaru specific, every discussion I\'ve seen on them points to the same original test by Outlaw Engineering, Some say Ford V6, some say it was a Mazda V6. From all I\'ve read, from Subaru owners that have fitted them with responses in the above links and a few others * I could never lean on the hot inlet manifold before, but now I can. * But performance/gain wise, minimal, only bother with them if the manifolds already coming off. I\'ve got a pyrometer that I could fit post turbo to see if exhaust temps drop at all, but it\'s just so much messing around for more than likely disappointing, un-conclusive results. I could try borrow a decent thermometer/tester this weekend and do a few of my own before and after manifold temps, but I\'m also changing to a silicone inlet pipe and de-coolanting (new word) the throttle body, so again nothing conclusive?

Tests carried out by Outlaw Engineering, test car was a 94 Ford Probe GT 2.5L V6. http://gizzmousa.com/thermal-gasket.html Same test results used by Gizzmo and Grimspeed word for word in their spiels lol.

Got the new Gizzmo spacers today 4mm, sandwiched with double gaskets total thickness is 6.44mm. Quote from UKLegacy link: "When compared to the 0.025 inch steel gasket it replaces, a quarter inch thick phenolic insulator will conduct 200-1000 times less heat! Although the insulation benefits increase with thickness, ¼ inch (6.4mm) sheet was chosen because this is the thickest that can generally be used with stock mounting studs and bolts." So looks like I should get away with OEM studs but will double check when manifolds off. But??? With alloy heads, alloy manifold and thermal spacers do I even want the standard steel/paper gaskets in there? Will they raise or lower heat transfer? Also it\'s just adding another 3 layers of possible leaks? So OEM gaskets as well or not? ???

After all that dribble anti venting BOV\'s I\'ve just gone and put it back in for the weekend : Doing the hose 10 mod will also make your aftermarket BOV more responsive: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,34751.0.html

This is the back of a VF27 run rich, you can see all the build up round the sides. The carbon flakes are 1.5-2mm thick. Should be a pretty clean burnt orange like a healthy spark plug. I\'ve got a diesel CT20 turbo with 340000kms that\'s cleaner.

That would be more an unresponsive boost gauge from hoses too long etc taking a few seconds to register slight boost. But I have the same old style HKS, not adjustable. Goes off loud with even the slightest boost, then sounds like a compressor plug popping out at full boost. If I take my foot of the gas slowly while changing gear I can make it hiss for about 3 seconds. Tydon try taking the restrictor pill out of your BOV line if there\'s one in there, made a huge difference to how much my valve went off. I\'ve gone back to recirculating OEM, all venting to atmosphere does with MAF is cause over fuelling every time the valve goes off which will foul plugs, cause hesitation and slow spooling when you come back on the gas, anyone running cats will ruin them with carbon/soot build up which will eventually block the cat. Given long enough it could even clog up around the waste gate and ECV valves causing them to not seat/seal properly and leak?