Rosssub

Cheers, most people I know only service their vehicle when something falls off or it wont start. I guess workshops will add wof type checks to regular servicing such as checking tie rod ends, wheel bearings etc? Makes me wonder how much the accident statistics will rise from mechanical faults. Also how many more tickets the police can hand out for \'Vehicle not up to WOF standards? Or am I completely missing the point for the change and dribbling again... ;D Edit: Insurance company\'s will love the change too, "We\'re not paying out as the vehicle was not up to Wof standards at the time of the accident".

Here\'s a full list of interchangeable parts: http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=13&p=172881

This isn\'t it but covers the same question: Says fronts fit if you change top hats? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/differences-bh-bl-bp-suspension-181806.html

I read something last night that I can\'t find now that said fronts fit but rear don\'t, with pics of bh fronts fitted to a bl and it sat about 2 inches higher at the front because the BH is heavier and has a higher spring rate than the BL/BP

Ahh, so the GTB has \'Progressive\' springs, softer at the top end of suspension travel and stiffer at the bottom. But BH & BE have \'Linear\' springs that have the same increasing \'bounce\' rate from top of travel to bottom? BE 2.36kg/mm front & 2.36kg/mm rear BH 2.36kg/mm front & 3.4 kg/mm rear BH GTB 0.912kg-2.183kg/mm front & 1.28kg-3.9kg/mm rear

I got a warrant yesterday and the mechanic told me that june/july ish next year cars later than 2000 will only need a new wof every 12 months, cars older than 2000 stay at 6 months. Anyone know the facts? I\'m guessing they must be changing s few minor things such as tyre tread minimums etc?

Close, that\'s the \'progressive spring rate\'. I\'m after the \'loaded spring weight\'.

The second chart shows which rate values are loaded or progressive. Does the GTB use the same BH5 springs on Bilsltein struts, or does the GTB sit lower needing a higher spring rate?

So that makes OEM spring rate for BE: 2.36kg/mm Front & 2.36kg/mm Rear BH: 2.36kg/mm Front & 3.4kg/mm Rear But still don\'t know the BH5 gtb rates?

This is in Lbs, multiply the Lbs rate by 0.0179 to convert to Kg. Found as an attachment here: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/27136-spring-rates-specs-eas-legacies-imps.html Also found this chart in Lbs. But covers Heaps of aftermarket Subaru gear: http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/spring/spring.html

Anyone know the difference in Front/Rear OEM spring rates between BE and BH and BH GTB? only spec I\'ve found was in wiki that said the B4 rear OEM was 4.84kg/mm. I\'ve read a few posts about people fitting BE rear coilovers in a BH and getting a saggy rear end so figure the BH rear would be 1.5-2kg/mm more. My non damper adjustable Cusco fronts are knocking and I\'m on the hunt for a second hand full set or just replacement fronts. I\'ve been quoted $250 per shock by Shockshop Christchurch for recon which they will need to go to Auckland for. Looking at second hand sets which I can\'t see part numbers on to get the exact spring rates for, I\'ve taken some averages through set I\'m looking at for comparison (also to match my cusco rears if I only buy fronts). All for BE and BH. (N/mm to kg/mm conversion is 1KG = 9.81N) Tein: BE/BH 6kg/mm Front & 6kg/mm Rear Eifle: BE/BH 6.75kg/mm Front & 6.75kg/mm Rear BC Gold: BE/BH 8kg/mm Front & 8kg/mm Rear Cusco: BE 8kg/mm Front & 6kg/mm Rear BH 8kg/mm Front & 7kg/mm Rear Tanabe: BE 8kg/mm Front & 6kg/mm Rear BH 8kg/mm Front & 8kg/mm Rear OEM: BE 2.55kg/mm Front & 4.84kg/mm Rear I assume the factory loaded spring rates are so different because of the difference in spring size front to rear, yet most after market coilovers are about the same F & R.

FMIC? You will get a lot of different opinions but personally I wouldn\'t bother unless your building a 400hp beast, or constantly stuck in traffic heat soaking. You will get more power, but boost & acceleration will not be as responsive. I\'d prefer response over a slight power gain any day. Plus with factory parts needing to be moved/removed and the extent of work involved to get a professional fit I would be doing a lot of research before spending any money. But in saying all of that, they do look pretty damn good...

If one coil pack was bad the rest cant be far behind. But it\'s running pretty rich to foul the new plugs that quick, maybe worth trying a different AFM. Did you fit a boost guage?

I give mine a gentle wire brush or slide a piece of wet & dry through the gap, then spray with WD40 and wipe with a rag. A plastic bread tag is 0.8mm, check your gaps with one. But chances are your plugs aren\'t the issue so they will foul again. AFM dodgy or bung coil packs?

Are your battery terminals clean and very tight? Any dirty/corroded or loose earths?

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,34751.0.html

Zerosports sequential controller doesn\'t alter or control boost and I disconnected the factory boost solenoid when fitting the EBC

After getting my massive VOD troubles sorted by fitting a Zerosports sequential controller. Running factory boost control solenoid and stock exhaust, it ran perfect for a month but is now boost spiking as high as 1.3 bar (18.9psi) under full throttle and boost cutting if I don\'t back off. I\'ve fitted a Hdi-ebc-r which I\'ve set to 1 bar (14.5psi), which has lowered the spike slightly. Even with the EBC I can still get it to spike to 1.2 bar (17.5psi). -I have tried different boost guage -I have no boost leaks -ECU reset tried -Waste gate is working fine -No inlet leaks -No CEL yet I haven\'t had the exhaust off yet to check for blockage, but will tomorrow if it\'s fine (I have been thinking it\'s sounding different lately). What else could it be?

Primary is passenger side, Secondary is staying cold because it\'s doing nothing. Do 98 Gtb\'s have a BBOD, might be time for a solenoid clean out. Any CEL\'s? Last resort remove the secondary downpipe and check the turbo out.

Have you got a good multi tester? Check for resistance (ohms) between soldered join and the main Z/S loom plug, should be 0 resistance. any resistance indicates a brake in continuity or broken circuit.

Thanks Marky, seems to be going fine now. Finally lol, definitely been a good learning curve though. Thanks to all for the help

2 posts below your one: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,37166.0.html

When you spliced wires 1-5 into the ecu loom did you solder or use easy splicers?

Yeah your right #6 is always seeing vacuum once it reaches certain Rpm ect , #1 hose (intercooler dashpot) that sees vacuum at low rpm (closed) and boost/ atmospheric pressure at higher rpm(open) works in semi Sync with the #6 vacuum , could be a fraction before though . Hose 6 gets vacuum for prespool. Hose 1 only ever gets vacuum, never boost pressure. The IACV is spring loaded to open.

that dashpot under the intercooler is a normally open butterfly , that vacuum #6 line gets boost pressure once the secondry turbo starts to come online during the VOD / secondry turbo spool up > now the reason for the one way valve is to stop this line seeing boost hence keeping that secondry turbo flowing freely, if this one way valve was not there , that exhaust flapper inside, will slam it shut causing a huge loss of power,@ say 4800 rpm if incorrectly hooked up its the easiest and the most efficient way to keep them running parallel Hose 6 never gets positive pressure, only ever vacuum. Also pulling the rod up closes the ECV, pushing the rod down opens it.