boostin
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Posts posted by boostin
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Welding it will put a heap more strain on your cvs and axles, and increased tyre wear.
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Did they have a key? Or just dragged it onto a truck? No easy way around the factory immobiliser.
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There must be some seriously rough techs out there. Our apprentice has pre facelift BP/BL down to under an hour for dash removal, remove and disassemble passenger airbag, fit new inflator, and refit to vehicle.
And no, you don't fail a WOF if it hasn't been completed. Yet. It will happen though, probably end of next year.
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11 hours ago, GC8E2DD said:
The other thing to factor in is that they are 30 year old thrashed to death pistons.
Agreed. They may be worth a bit if there is proof they are genuine RS-RA pistons and you find the right buyer, but otherwise they're fancy ashtrays.
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Pics help too.
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If you're talking about the rear muffler itself, yeah rock on into Pitstop, choose your replacement muffler and get them to weld it on. For a cat-back or complete system, you can buy kits and simply bolt them on yourself. You just need the ability to get the car in the air a foot or so to give you access, and a reasonable quality socket set and spanners.
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Pmd you
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I'm in Pukekohe if you want to check out my manual 3.0R.
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Where are you based?
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Correct. 8 way power adjustable, but no memory.
If Mr Anal cert guy doesn't like bullets, solder and heatshrink it. Bullet it later on if you want to pull the seats out for whatever reason. If they're connected and the light is off, I don't think they will fail it.
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Technically autos do actually flat shift. The throttle doesn't close. The ignition timing is retarded to reduce torque, shift applied, and timing brought back to correct angle to bring power and torque back up.
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Whenever I hear rug doctor, I think gynaecologist....
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5 hours ago, GorGasmSpecB said:
Yep, what a chump ;P
I couldn't figure out how long it has been. That means I must have had it in 2009 or something
Almost a decade ago!
First registered in 09. I'm sure that the older I get, the faster the days (years) go by!
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7 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
Any idea if the plugs are the same? As in, will it drop in without kicking up a stink?
An airbag is an airbag. Worst case chop the plugs off and bullet it.
I take that to mean that if the vehicle is 14yo or older, it can be removed and LVV certified, but under 14 years cannot remove. My interpretation anyway.
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Needs LVV cert the way I read that.
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4 hours ago, GorGasmSpecB said:
Here's how I learn't to drive a manual:
One day about 6 years ago I saw a manual 3.0R at a dealer, I asked for a test drive. The guy gave me the key. Off I went. It was fun.
I bought the car in the end.
The 3.0R manual is a lot better than the auto. In the turbo I don't think it's as much of an issue. Think of the 3.0R manual like an Accord Euro R.
With that said, the turbo can be a lot faster.
Then you sold it to some sucker aye. And it was more than 6 years ago. Late 2011 I took custody.
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On 15/03/2018 at 11:32 AM, Joker said:
are you sure?
as in I'm being pedantic & many 'fog' lights are in fact DRL's & you can use them, or the headlights on low beam is a simple solution
back to fog lights : the symbol for fog lights is VERY similar to DRLS and easily confused
usually a case of RTFM (Read the effin Maual)
would be very odd for any Subaru to not have an extra set of lights, & do they still all go off with the key?
As I used to always leave my lights on on my 98 GTB, never had a flat battery cos they don't operate with key off etc
Fog
DRL
colours may vary
and believe it or not this symbol comes up when you Google DRL's too, same as fog but horizontal lines
Orange light is rear fog. Subaru's don't have an idiot light for daytime runners.
No, Subaru have no option to activate DRL's.
+1 for getting a decent aftermarket kit wired in properly. This means the lamps must turn off when the headlamps are on.
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2 hours ago, BriteLites said:
So its only getting hot under high load competition driving but not on dyno? and cools down when you stop driving? thats odd becuase you have more airflow whilst competing and none standing still other than fan? weird will be interested to hear what you find.
Agreed, I find this a bit strange also.
@THUNDA, I don't condone drilling the thermostat, but it should still have had some effect. Drilling them usually just masks issues somewhere else, like heater cores.
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The alternators are controlled by the ECU to reduce engine load and fuel consumption. They charge when there is an electrical load like lights or AC on, or at a (very low) preset battery voltage. There is possibly an ECU update for constant charge. I recall when the Impreza came out with variable charging we had lots of elderly customers with dead batteries because they'd drive it once a week to the shops and back, in daylight with the AC off, so the damn things would barely charge.
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Drilling the thermostat should have made a reasonable difference. Have you tested it to make sure it opens at the right temperature, and opens fully? Might be worth banging a new one in there. 78 degree is stock, not 82 or 88.
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Hard to diagnose faults over the internet. Best you get it to someone who knows them asap.
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Tried different thermostats, coolants etc?
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Just a word of warning. If it's been too hot, the alloy goes soft and it's trash. You'll forever have issues with head gaskets etc. Any good engine reconditioners should be able to hardness test them for you.
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Don't forget rear sway bar mount stiffeners. They're prone to snapping the mounts off the subframes with bigger rear sway bars.
Almost a decade ago!
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What diff is this and can it be made better?
in Gearbox and Drivetrain
Posted
Hard to finish a race with a snapped axle. Even a tight mechanical lsd has some give. A welded different doesn't. And where he may have been getting 4 races out of a set of semis, that may now only be 3. It's something to consider, and up to him to decide if the risk and costs are worth it to him. You can help, or you can be a cock.