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scooby-wrx

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Posts posted by scooby-wrx

  1. I had an old HKS one in my Type R and it never gave me any issues, was easy to set & held boost very well.

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    Have a GFB in my RA thought it was great to start off with, but am sick of it now as it over-boosts regularly I had it installed & tuned the car at the same time. If I floor it in 1st or 2nd and carry on through the gears no problem, but if I'm cruising in 4th and floor it, it over boosts! Very annoying...

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  2. Genuine wing's have 10 male studs which slide into slots in the wing. I removed my V5 Type R's wing to apply a foam rubber seal and managed to find some replacement studs at Pickapart. Have a fiberglass V6 copy which has female studs and they only have 4 mounting points so can be fitted without drilling holes.

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  3. I've done the engine conversion. Be prepared for a lot of wiring, that's the worst part. Otherwise a fairly easy swap.

    Its best to replace the clutch master cylinder so that it clears the V7 top mount as its a fair amount larger than your original one. I did an entire loom swap, but found out later this is not really required if you run something link a Link G4.

    Before:

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    After:

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    Wiring loom

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    In my experience the conversion is worth it. V7 STI engine's are nice and responsive / more torque with the AVCS (variable valve timing).

    Worth having a browse through this forum as a lot of guys have done the whole conversion so lots of info.

    http://www.rs25.com/forums/

  4. Hey guys,

    I have a Retna / 22B build on the go and was wandering if anyone knows the restrictions relating to guard cutting. I plan on doing something along the lines of the image below - does it need to be certed / carried out by professionals or can I do this in myself in my garage?

    Cheers

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  5.  lachlan said:
    oh come on dummies . its a 3rd position thrust engine . is that not hint enough

    also do you think if a crank was grinding on a alloy block it would machine it perfectly smooth ? no it would be all galled up to fk

    Thanks for confirming. That's what I though, but wanted to get some opinions as I haven't had many engine's apart.

  6. Hey guys,

    I pulled the sump off an engine this wkend and was wandering if the marks on the inside of the block are normal (last 2 pics)? Have they been machined or are they from the crank....? There were no metal shavings inside the oil / sump so assume they're machined? Crank rotates freely etc. Perhaps the engine has been apart and rebuilt? I know its been sitting around for years.

    Thanks

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  7.  ADIKT said:
    Did you use dry ice? Makes it a lot easier. Trust me.

    Wire brush on a fast speed drill works well to remove the left over residue too

    Thanks mate, appreciate it. I've used these tools on another car and deadening came off easily so thought I'd give it a try, but took hours so will definitely get some dry ice this week.

    Picked up a V4 STI alloy bonnet to replace the V1/2 steel one. Also got a set of alloy STI wishbone arms with aftermarket front swaybar links. Trial fitted the V6 STI Wing. Fitted a temporary V1/2 rear bumper to replace the terrible body kit it came with.

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  8.  SpeedySub said:
    ^ Thats a good looking wagon. Is that a 250T? really like those rims

    Thanks mate, recently bought it with the hope that its capable of towing a car / trailer as I need to do a track day soon! Rims were temporary while a new set of tires were being fitted to the OEM 17's.

    Its a 2001 250S

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