raijin

New rods bolts purchased as a precaution and ACL main and rod bearings. New EJ257 crank purchased from the states for $330 USD! Bearing clearances set, pistons matched to bores, ring gaps set and short engine now assembled

Nice - yes those are supported by both the lip at the top of the sleeve and also where the sleeve meets the casing at the base of the bore. The westwoods are only supported at the base as they do not have a lip at the top so more likely to have issues in hindsight. Good work.

Are they top hats?

Yes you can but you need to insert liners so there is significant machine work and cost involved. I had a 2.0 CDB modified to receive dry westood liners to run a 98mm bore. One of the liners dropped a couple of thou after running circa 2 bar boost though so I had to strip the motor and have the casing redecked which was a pain. That\'s when I decided to go down the EJ22T route to rule out potential future liner related issues.

thanks - here\'s a 2.1 stroker from one of the leading subaru specialists in the UK holding power very nicely at higher rpm (can\'t see the exact rpm but you get the jist from the shape of the power curve). Torque curve is flatter with a 2.35. Standard length rods with a 79mm crank and even using the OEM JDM AVCS cams on this application (with supertech valves and springs). 634 bhp on 99 octane pump fuel using a Gt3582 billet @2.1 bar iirc. http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/dd391/AdvancedAutomotivescom/Escort%20mk2/Graphs/AFRatiovsPower-1.jpg?t=1335030238

For a non competition engine with normal clearances a 10mm pump is perfectly adequate imho. If you are looking for a little more pressure you can shim the relief valve. I have used a 12mm pump in two competition engines with oil squrters, AVCS, larger bearing clearances and a 23 row oil cooler and never had any problems with oil temps or bearing failures.

yes these are 2618 alloy which has higher expansion than 4032 so you need to run a little more clearance. This makes them noisier when cold but they can take a serious spanking ;D

I\'ve been on the hunt for a pair of these since 2010 and it was a lucky find. They came out of a USDM legacy which was a farm run around in the midwest in the states and was being broken for spares so I did not pay a silly premium.

That\'s certainly an innovative approach to closing the deck. In know a chap who welded a deck closed with TIG but it ended up distorting the bores excessively unfortunately. I\'ve previously run a 2.1 CDB stroker so did consider just running the EJ22T as a 2.2 out of curiousity to see any difference in rev response and torque output between the two set ups. Horses for courses as you say. 8)

"With a 75mm crank and stroker pistons, you can fit longer rods. Which is what it sounds like he was thinking of doing. Have had similar thoughts myself in the past." Ah I see - have you run calcs on potential impact on torque of this configuration?

Hi Lachlan what casings are you running? I think the pin height on these pistons has been set for the standard length rods on a 79mm crank so doubt they would work with a longer rod.

I thought I would start a thread to track progress with my 2.35 build. I managed to pick up a set of EJ22T casings from a farmer in the USA (these are rare as hen\'s teeth now!). Rear thrust conversion complete, surface ground and bores honed to suit pistons. All ready to receive an EJ257 crankshaft Pauter X-beam conrods (these are built to last!) Mahle 2618 stroker pistons matched to bore The crowns and skirt are coated as standard Check out the design - these pistons really are a work of art There is even a cut out to clear the oil squirters - no need to get out the die grinder I\'m currently in the process of chambering a pair of JDM big port AVCS heads to match the 98 mm bore 8)

In the first instance, given there are historical codes stored for multiple sensors and P0350 has now appeared (which in my experience is usually the code the ECU throws when it cannot attribute a misfire condition to a specific coil pack), I would recommend you check your engine harness earths (specifically the harness earthing bolt to the top of the passenger side inlet manifold) before you start swapping coil packs around.

the oil is coming from the breather pipes in your turbo intake. It is quite normal to see some oil in your intercooler and it will become excessive if the oil level in the sump is too high or your bores or turbo are worn. Per other comments this is not related to the cel. On your ECU a flashing cel is specific to a misfire code. Usually a faulty coil pack or plug will trigger this . I have seen faulty injectors also trigger a flashing cel. The ecu will assume a misfire if the injector drops out of sync with the crank sensor. On one car this was caused by a connector plug on an injector not being pushed fully home after a rebuild. The stored code on the ecu will isolate this for you once you gain access. Drop me a pm if you need any help. Cheers .Alistair

No worries re the offer. All the dodgy O2 sensors I have seen on newage cars result in a CEL which causes the ECU to disable air to fuel correction learning (but we learn new things all the time about these marvels of engineering). Whoever mapped the car for you in the first instance should really be trying to sort this for you, however rather than swapping sensors on and off the car with the hope identifying the issue, I\'d recommend the quickest way of sorting this is to take the car to someone who can log the channels on the ECU whilst you drive and replicate the condition. For example all the sensors can be working fine but the ECU can make massive false knock correction adjustments due to unusual mechanical noise which causes the car to run poorly and the only way to diagnose this is to plug in the laptop and get a mic onto the engine. Hope you get it sorted. Drop me PM if you need any help.

Hi I\'m not sure where you\'re based but if you are in the Auckland area you\'re welcome to bring in the car for a free diagnostic session. Cheers. Alistair.

I don\'t know what your power goals are but I have a set of blue OEM 550cc side feeds on V5/6 rails coming off a car shortly. Drop me a PM if of any interest. 8)

PM sent 8)

My point it is possible to control target boost level by gear using the V7 Sti ECU per gear compensation which is beyond the functionality of most EBCs apart from the like of the Apexi AVCR. On the OEM VF turbo set up the standard 2 port boost solenoid works very well in my experience if a correctly sized restrictor pill is used and the car is properly mapped. Mapping a 3 port boost solenoid should not be time consuming for an experienced mapper if the correct base WG duties, integral and proportional TD settings are dialed in at the outset. Also it is possible to set up twin boost maps on the V7 Sti ECU without using the group N Rom which you refer to. In summary, a software patch can be applied to the OEM MAF based Rom which allows the user to switch between the MT and AT boost and WG tables on the fly using a combination of throttle position, RPM and the application of the defog switch. This functionality works very well on road cars and does not require any regular resetting or impact on fuel trims (nor should it on the Group N Rom if correctly set up in the first instance).

You don\'t need a boost controller. The OEM ECU is capable of providing 3D boost control i.e. determining boost levels per rpm and which gear you are in. Also your ECU can run twin boost maps switched by a combination of your defog switch and throttle angle if properly set up and mapped so don\'t waste your money on a boost controller.

I have seen this with loose battery terminals