gazzy2000

forgot to say thanks to Debs too (clubsubmum) as she had been through this process on the same car (replace v7 shortie into a a v4) i was able to cross referance information ensuring i get things right. Plus she still had the reciepts with part numbers... so thanks for that Debs.. too handy! My mate has ordered all the bits and we will start up a garage thread.

update - we purchased one of these circlips and it is mint re-fitted engine.. only did the basic bolts up n fitted the clutch slave, tested the clutch and it feels geat! So a combo of the new circlip and the unworn/new groove that it fits into on the new thrust bearing, means the thrust bearing is tight-as and locked inplace (as it should) thrust bearing was around $100 (the old one had wear in the groove where the circlip holds it) Circlip $38.00 from Ford dealer

no skin off my ball bagus man

well if you were in say chch (i am in timaru) i have a black or a green one here

nice job boosted.. i see your bonnet is silver.. so it wil fit mine nicely, when you want to sell ;D

forgot to mention, i sat the clutch plate on my lap, inserted the thrust bearing n pulled it in and out and it always plulled straight off the clip.. basically simulating what it was doing on the car thats when we inspected the clip n found it was worn

super! thanks!

nice one thanks. Clubsubmun (a membe on here) did the exact same conversion, except hers was a v4 GF8. She used 1.6mm head gaskets on the v7 block (v7 block has identical part number to what we are using) and she states that its a non issue... car pulls hard as you like with no funny stuff going on. so due to her project being a sucess Is it safe to assume i should just goe with 1.6mm gaskets and be done with it? rather than like you say trying to match the exact CR i am guessing that v3 & 4 have the same CR here.. still trying to find out for sure (i know a v3 = 6s ECU and a v4 = 75 ECU)

i have a question for scottspeed.. The car we are putting the v7 short block into is a 97 Version GF8 WRX STI Regestration: GFY212 VIN/Chassis: 7A8GF090706031821 Engine: EJ20-797982 Type: GF8D5ED assuming the car is 8.0:1 CR, from what you have already said the head gaskets should be 1.34mm (when using the stock heads with v7 shortB) However the stock subaru part# for a head gasket for that exact car is listed as 11044aa463 of which google lists as a 1.6mm thick head gasket. (thats from wingers) In the name of mirroring the original engine Compression ratio and from what you have already said.. 1.6mm would be well wrong yea? does that ring true with you? (obviously if you were using the stock shortblock the 1.6mm would be fine) If maybe you tell me what you think is right we could then look at what ECU he is running (should be a 6s) and then be able to cross referance/confrim the Compression ratio. many thanks! Gary

SWEETBIX i have a part number N315-16-416 for the circlip and Ford sell them LOL WTF rang ford overnight = $39.00 ex GST

Hey, question: can you buy the circlip/cage separately from exedy? the one that holds the thrust bearing onto the clutch plate we tried to fit a second hand clutch in qiksti's STI and learnt a lesson.. the subaru pull clutch relys heavily on the circlip and cage that holds the thrust bearing in place, we found that secondhand clutches.. although the clutch plate and pressure plate are fine etc, if the clip has wear marks on it eventually the bearing will simply pull through. We fitted the clutch, and fitted the engine, bolted it up.. put foot on clutch and "ping" the bearing simply pulled through. Thats engine out time again! Obviously this circlip is critical to the pulling operation of subaru pull type clutches My advice, when using a second hand clutch or when you hav eyour engine out, remove the clutch n take the clip off the pressure plate etc and inspect for wear. Or do what we did n find out the hard way LOL So yea.. anyone got a secondhand one? (circlip)

congrats to you both!! god bless the interwebz!

i am guessing if you are running the standard BH Twin Turbo ECU and the v7 block is in place already etc, your stock BH ECU will be the wrong CR and tune for the v7 block, so you could potentially do damage to the engine under load/hard boost. My advice.. for the cheap option.. wire your BH leggy wiring for V5/6 layout then chuck a stock v5/6 STI ECU in and you will be good to go. As mentioned.. get a link and you will still have to make the wiring into single T layout, but with the link option you have the cost of the Link ECU and a tune on top.. i will hazzard a guess starting @ $1500+. A v5/6 STI ECU will cost $150 and if you do the wiring yourself your are set. The main benifit of the Link ECU option is you can add/do mods latter on. What ever you do.. dont drive it hard until you have it sorted

wiring for TT to ST.. whether or not you use a Link ECU (the insert/plugin type) or a V5/6 ECU, u will still have to to modify your BH legacy Twin Turbo wiring to convert it to a Single Turbo v5/6 ECU. The Compression ratio (CR) problem i.e. engine CR to ECU tune mismatch that is a known issue with this conversion on BH5 leggys, should not be an issue when using a v7 block as the CR is right for the v5/6 ECU tune your list of mods are such that you may not need to get a link or tuneable ECU (start doing bigger injectors and turbos and you will obviously) BH5 TT to ST wiring mods here: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,21250.0.html

nah, wont be the belt.. theres another 20,000km in that LOL WTF!

YEA! about time http://breadfish.co.uk/

Bloody mint info! thanks! will be getting the heads done and yes its been over heated. FYI - We are getting the radiator fully flushed and a new tank, FULL cambelt kit, all new silicone hose kit. My mate that brought the shortblock is going to sign up as a member soon n start a garage thread, we will wheel the car in into my garage next monday to start work. he has a mechanic to do all the engine work but i will certainly pass on any info to him (as long as he isnt a silly old fool and listens)

hey i have a couple of questions.. if using this short block in a stock V3 STI.. 1) will the compression ratio be right for v3 STI? (I guess its a 6S ECU) 2) depending on the answer to question 1, what head gaskets should be ordered? (thickness & material etc) 3) if its a stock application, what head bolts should we purchase? plus who has the cheapest cam belt kits these days, or should be ask winger to supply one at a good price since we brought the block from them.

now thats some good info right there, thanks..

train snow plow arthurs pass NZ

this guy http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,27246.0.html

mate of mine won that, we ganna pull the engine out of his GF8 v3 STI. This is the STI that that guy signed up on here on CS, introd himself, he had just brought the STI, just moved to timaru, car started over heating (obviously) then sold it on to my mate and didnt tell him it was forked! sad story that..

is that like the shortblock you used in your BG?

747 lifting in strong winds

yea WTF, we were meant to get snow here over night.. but nup! I was hoping to ring work and say i cant get in coz we have 6 meters of snow at our place