gazzy2000

fark thats ghey LOL

17mins of rally crashes, sum i hvnt seen b4... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHyoURMw1yQ&feature=fvwrel

hi Mate has a 2003 leggy that is having issues idling, very ruff. initial Compression tests stated that the right hand side was low 90PSI, but during that test there was a click clack.. and the compression came up to a good 190PSI, then the compression test on the left hand side stated 80 and 90PSI and never shifted. motor was pulled, exhaust valves on left hand side looked to be burnt, the right h/s were fine. the AVCS oil filter/gause on the right hand was crushed... sort of folded over... that has been replaced... the left hand side AVCS gause looked to be OK put all back together and its still has idlling better (prolly due to valves being done) but not really fixed. real time data showed the left hand side at 53degrees advanced and right hand was 2 degrees advanced, after fitting a new pulley on the left hand side the problem then shifted sides?? i.e. the right was 53 advanced etc question is... has anyone come accoss this type of idling problem before? there is no oil in any of the AVCS sensor plugs as per the known AVCS issues

Ipad slap

focus

yip, well said. You will also find there are other real talents in this club that cudnt give two hoots about having their ego's stroked and hence will not even bother posting in this thread ;D. You know who you are, dont be shy, tell us how good you are... we need to know

I am 39 y/o, was an auto electrican from 1994 to 2001, then retrained in Computer Networking (Cisco Networking Academy trained to CCNP level) Full time study for two years. Been in IT since early 2003. well before the auto sparky days i was a car fanatic, have had 5 RX2's, and a RX4 (back in the day when you cud buy a blown up one for $1000 lol) plus built up a DX and starlet with 4age's. Brought my 1st WRX in late 2008 (late bloomer) and have owned, repowered, repaired, wrecked and parted out around 10 subarus (mainly legacys) since then. I have done 3 single turbo conversions.. 2 on BG5a legacies and one on a BH5 legacy.

is that the heated front windscreen so the wipers dnt stick in a frost?

for the mechanics

this is what you need, long as yr car has central lock... http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,27921.0.html

running out of ideas...

yea well if the timing is out that would do it. Get it checked if you are unsure (especially if someone has been in there doing stuff) One thing i found too was to be careful to get the cam and crank sensor signal wires round the right way as well as their earths and shielding wires, as per here, note 3: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,10158.15.html

right, so you have spark (assumably with the wiring done the right way) and you should have fuel... if the pump is priming hopefully you have the injector plugs on the right way round... how are you cleaning the plugs? what method? using some fine sand paper in between the gap and blowing try with air or WHY? yup i have spark i tested with a known good plug and checkd each lead and got spark on all 4 leads. what sound does the fuel pump priming make? i checked the two colours on each wire on my uncles v3 sti motor and changed mine to match his i cleaned them with a wire brush and and blow dryed them to air them off cool, well you cant be far off! try some sandpaper in between the gap next time fuel pump priming is just the ECU turning the pump on then off when the ignition is first turned on, you can normally just hear it turn on then off with KOEO. Then the pump runs normally once started

Oh, and some times if the cylinder is full of fuel... you need to crank engine over with plugs out to clear them so next time when u clean the plugs properly, take them all out and unplug the coil pack (so there is no spark) then crank away, it will sound funny as there will be no compression, this is normal, refit plugs and try again

right, so you have spark (assumably with the wiring done the right way) and you should have fuel... if the pump is priming hopefully you have the injector plugs on the right way round... how are you cleaning the plugs? what method? using some fine sand paper in between the gap and blowing try with air or WHY?

KOEO = Key On, Engine Off. When u 1st turno KOEO do you hear the fuel pump prime (turn on) from the rear of the car (behind back seat)

K, so you can hear the fuel pump prime with KOEO?

sh1t oh dear man ???, most will assume you have done this already to 100% you have any spark in the first place... this is both fundamental and critical with a job like this use that plug you broke if you have to... so just chuck a plug in the lead and turn the key? someone told me to pump the accelerator dnt think that helps though easier with two ppl, yip pull the leads off (one by one) plug the test plug into one lead, repeat on all leads... the body of the plug needs to be earthed on any bolt on manifold or WHY, then someone crank the car over while the other looks for physical spark on the plug... yea no accel, we are just checking for spark here (on every/any lead) what if the sparkplugs poked ? the one used for testing is there still gunna be spark? also if one spark plug out of the 4 is poked will this result in in no start? well the testing one really has to be a known good one... for the test plug, if you have to, buy a $7 brand new one from repco if one is stuffed (assuming your wiring is done right) it would/should start but run ruff as maybe run crap under load...

sh1t oh dear man ???, most will assume you have done this already to 100% you have any spark in the first place... this is both fundamental and critical with a job like this use that plug you broke if you have to... so just chuck a plug in the lead and turn the key? someone told me to pump the accelerator dnt think that helps though easier with two ppl, yip pull the leads off (one by one) plug the test plug into one lead, repeat on all leads... the body of the plug needs to be earthed on any bolt on manifold or WHY, then someone crank the car over while the other looks for physical spark on the plug... yea no accel, we are just checking for spark here (on every/any lead)

sh1t oh dear man ???, most will assume you have done this already to 100% you have any spark in the first place... this is both fundamental and critical with a job like this use that plug you broke if you have to...

so have you pulled off the leads one at a time and used an old spark plug to see if there is spark on all four leads?

ah yip hear what you are saying... well yr mate's one is a good option then, youd just want to find out if because it has been tinkered with, is it running the same/right CR for your car. But yea, if the CR is right.. grab his long block and swap yr TT shyte onto it and youre away.

all good then aye... all he wud need is the single turbo bits off his mates car and a new v7 STI shortie. Oh and make sure you got the right head gaskets i.e. for an STI not a BH legacy (just incase you know you are not farking with the CR) this is all assuming his sucko moto is indeed borked

yes is the same if it were me... i would prolly try n find some cheap STI v5/6 heads just to make sure its all STI (dunno.. but STI heads may not be the same as the BH TT ones i.e. cams and port size etc)

und if that was my rev C BH, und the donk was borked - i wud get a v7 shortie - grab your mates one and use all the single turbo shyte off it incl STI ECU etc etc - make yours a single turbo - bit of wiring to do, Reuben will do it for $$ - sell bits left over i.e. shortblocks, heads or WHY, incl injectors etc etc FYI - the Compression Ratio (CR) is engineered into the pistons, so getting a new STI v7 shortie will be all good in the hood for the v5/6 STI ECU