gazzy2000

Yea i have low boost and definately running rich as per Air fuel analyser road test. Cant smell fuel though

cool thanks, but thats just for vacume leaks aye? I am talking about making the home made valve adaptor and pumping 10-20 PSI to see if it holds it, using soaping water etc to find leaks, this is how they do it yea? Similar to here (but this is for a FMIC) http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=879900 Thanks

Hey, I have googled how to carry out boost leak tests and the interweb seems to only cater for fella's with FMIC's. I just need to know the ins and outs for doing it on a V5 with a TM. Can ya help? Cheers gazza

also, another DIY thing to do (if you havnt already) is fit an earth kit and/or clean up your battery terminals, regardless, this is a good thing to do as the factory earth system is rather substandard anyways.

Yea i did aye, i tried heapsa of stuff bu the thing that nailed it for me was removing the coil over plug coils and fitting the standard 4 point coil pack off a V5 STI with leads. The thing i found was if you know for sure all the plumbing for the boost control and teh turbo and solenoids are all operational (you have to be 100% sure here) then think about what puts the car in safe mode (i.e. low boost). I can throw more suggestios you way but need a tad more info. Please ask other questins on this subject here http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,6951.60.html (cause this is not our thread )

Mate, just dont take anything anyone saye as gospel, i researched this subject hard when i had the prob on my STI. Yes there is a list of things it could be, simply work through the easy DIY ones yourself. and nope knock sensors are "not meant" to pick up "other noises" for sure, but ask Possum Bourne MS they dont hestitate to relocate the knock sensor if they are having issuses, its simply so easy to do and it eleminates that being the issue straight away and probably fixes half a dozen other probs you didnt know you had! ** PLUS **- each time you change, shift or clean ANY sensor you MUST reset the ECU so it can erase old false readings from sensors etc and relearn info from the fresh/fixed inputs etc (even after cleaning the AFM and IACV) BTW - i had a K&N high flow flat pannel on my STI, when trouble shooting i even brought a factory flat pannel. cleaned the AFM (again) and reset the ECU, made no differance!

Have read of this link http://www.imprezasport.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=785&st=0

I had this prob on my v4 STI, removed and cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) with brake cleaner, that helped. The IACV is the main componet keeping the revs up when cold and they can get all gummed up and need a good clean. ALso clean your AFM with CRC AFM cleaner ($20 from ripco) Also a cheap and easy thing to eleminate is to relocate the knock sensor, they can be be too sensitive with cold engine noises and driving etc, specially in their current factory location. If the o2 isnt that old it wont /shudnt be that. By unplugging the o2 it makes the car run rich and will only mask the surging, not fix it. Hope that helps

Hey, some guy asking this question on my listing on TM. DO they simply plug and play? Heres what he said " hey mate would these bolt str8 on my 1996 gtb wagon???same maifold and stuff??and all tha pipes" Cheers

yea cool thnx, i didnt go with any of that relay stuff that i craped on about for mine, just did what Reuben suggested and bridged it out. etc. But am experiancing knock conditions from being too lean, hense the low boost conditions as well, so just looking at possibilies and have a new pump on the way. Sorry to rob this thread....... please....continue chaps

Hey Funky, is there a thread on here that tells you how to do the wiring mode for walbros? cheers wiring mode? what do you mean.. you mean just to plug wire it up (safely/normally)? unscrew the +ve and -ve off your old pump, fit the walbro to the harness and then screw the connecter to +ve and -ve to the walbro. Its that simple - least on a WRX.. I remember the legacies have odd wiring and relays You wrote that there seems to be a alot of VD across the walbro pump when using stock wiring, if there is whats the wirinig mod you speak of?

Hey Funky, is there a thread on here that tells you how to do the wiring mode for walbros? cheers

right you are frumpytown

if these are the same as what i have just priced up, it is $200 incl GST The part number for mine was 22794-aa010, and that is for a v5/6 STI or BE5/BH5 legacys The white writing on the AFM is c36-700 R92 teh R92 means Turbo Application, where-as R82 is NA I just told them at subaru "hey i can get these for $180 off Trade Me, whats your best price?" and he said they are normally $250. I dont think i would buy second hand for such a important sensor.

as per normal, i will stick my sales pitch in here..... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=253485364 for club sub members $400 for both or $250 as single items

hey, my V5/6 yellows are still for sale http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=253485196

Hey does anyone know if a knock sensor throws a CEL only when the sensor itself is stuffed or when it detects knocks, or both? CHeers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5l1L20fWHY

This is a photo from the 2009 Inauguration, In which you can see IN FOCUS The face of each individual in the crowd !!! You can scan, double click and zoom to any section of the crowd... wait a few seconds... and the focus adjusts. The picture was taken with a robotic camera at 1,474 megapixel. (295 times the standard 5 megapixel camera) Makes you wonder who's watching us right now ! ** click link ** http://gigapan.org/viewGigapanFullscreen.php?auth=033ef14483ee899496648c2b4b06233c

hey, i still have my twin turbs for sale, Vf31 & VF32 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=251844339 cheers

nup, wasnt that. I am going to try a AFM next, failing that i am going to borrow a Bosch monitor and go for a drive with an "on to it" auto sparky mate (considering i have been out of the game now for a 9 years)

i have a theory that i am going to try. Maybe a crack in the intercooler...... because wen we tried a MBC it boosted to 15 fine but was very jerky, i.e. the MBC obviously was letting boost get to 15 but if it had a leak the boost would hold at 15 thanks to the MBC but would be forever fighting to keep it there as the boost leaked out, like a crack expanding due to the pressure build up. I have the original TT TMIC so will try that, soon, i have my chores to do first :'( wot do ya reckon?

forum with same issue on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=959190&highlight=%2Awont+boost+past+10+PSI%2A&page=2

can any one tell me what sensors the ECU relys on that would knock back the boost to actuator pressure (limp boost mode)? i know mechanically how the boost is controlled and am 100% certain its plumbed right, but this problem points directly at the duty cycle of the boost solenoid (wastegate solenoid) of which is controlled by the ECU so somethings gota be telling the ECU to backoff the boost.