runrabbit

22mm rear sway bar installed - finally

grr ... new issue took car on motorway and it vibrates at 100kph through the steering wheel. Only happened since the new brake pads/and machining last saturday. Car doesn't shudder under braking, its only at high speed. Tho there is faint vibration at lower speeds as well. is this likely to be a wheel balance issue (ie thrown a weight) rather than something to do with the new pads etc and the work done on the brakes. I did ring the guy who did the job and he said get a wheel balance, ie - not his problem. annoying that it happened only after they had the car :-\

its a manual. after reading a bunch of posts re brake pads both here and on Rexnet.com.au a couple of things stood out a) dont sweat the small decisions b) go for a 'better' upgrade rather than the 'best' upgrade (which was never on the cards anyway) went to Repco for some Fedoro TS2000 - which they didn't have - and ended up with TWR. Should be adequate for a std street rex. Discs machined and system bled. Will update in a few weeks wrt how the brakes are going.

A couple of (simple) brake questions for the more mech minded. Driving from Wgtn to Akld my brakes decided to fade at around Taupo. (Noting my car hasn't been used much in the last yr - ie 500km) Pedal was getting softer every roundabout around the Taupo bypass road - having been going ok in the tighter stuff around the lake. I checked the brake fluid resevoir and its full and no signs of leaks. Question 1 Is this caused by condensation/water or an air bubble? Seemed they faded with a bit of heat/harder use. Took it easy the rest of the way and I still have brakes now, but they don't seem as affective as they shld. (and they're just starting to slightly squeal). Time for a flush and new pads Could attempt myself - (tried it once b4) but tempted to just take it to a mechanic. Question 2 Car is a standard 98 GC8 (no power mods) - is there any point looking at a brake upgrade? Even it was just better pads & dot5.1? Any brand suggestions, suppliers, or just stick with suitable budget/OEM replacements? (Wish-list being 2pots, braided lines, bigger rotas etc - but not really needed or justifyable :) Question 3 Im in Massey/Whenuapai - where can I get this done? Pitstop or find a private workshop/mech nearby? ..oh one more Q4 Tein springs - worth it? I have ALK and rear sway bar to install asap. Brakes first tho. Cheers

after almost 2yrs of my aerial not going down and getting stuck on the last telescopic extension - it now has decided to go down perfectly ;D aweeesome! (apologises mods for resurrecting and old post)

been away overseas for over a year - car done around 500km in that time. taking it from Wgtn to Akld tmrw - wondering whats going to pop, split, crack and leak :

I got a reconditioned short block for $1800 off trademe. But to get it all put in, and everything else replaced at s subbie shop was another $4K+. bugger of a decision to make, part out, sell as 'non runner' (urs still goes), or rebuild. I figure i'm just going to have to keep it for a long time now, I just tell myself its effectively a 'new engine', and therefore 'new car'. (despite the myriad of other niggly mech and elec issues)

Learn the alphabet - well, some of it. :-\

There should be a prize for the first muppet to crash after the rule change.

i have a 3 inch tbe, no cat, and it is loud. Usually drive it with the silencer in as not to attract too much attention and to pass warrants. The worse part is the can on the back is probably close to 6 inch diameter, with a four inch tip. any very shiney - so it sticks out like dog nuts. Whats a good brand (muffler only) replacement that is smaller and still in the canon style?? ((noting the earlier comment about the STi genome) (sorry for the hi-jack)

Started taking mine off today. Can confirm GC8 '98 had screws in them - so needed to pull the seals out a bit. Actually found it easier to pull the seal out and go in from the interior side of the seal. To remove the adhesive - started with Desolv-it and a plastic scraper. Then used turps. The adhesive is old and crusty and takes a fair amount of effort to remove. Haven't found a caramel wheel. Half way thru I've decided it looks much better without the monsoons. Can't quite get the last of the adhesive off tho. Will try something more abrasive. Looks like its almost scratched in. Not really wanting to have to get it resprayed.

purchased WALK. rear sway bar to come.

sup dude, where's abouts in Oz did u get the brace, and how much?

I had one on my old rex puchased from www.aerotech.co.nz/products.php It was moulded plastic, and much better than some fibreglass copies i've seen off trademe.

I usually park away from other cars in car parks too. Tho the missus complains about the walk to get to the shops. ??? Parked with the rest of the herd last week, and got a massive white paint mark on the door, where some muppet slammed their door into mine. Set off the alarm as well, so they knew they'd caused some damage. No note or nothing. Rage!

bumper removed and in for painting front speakers in this afternoon

for a '98 wrx should the rear demister and hazard lights icons on the switches be illuminated when the head lights are on?? These are both located on the centre console next to the cup holder. Currently driving around at night, these don't rear illuminate and I have to 'find by feel'. Minor annoyance, just wondering how many other electrical gremlins are lurking under the dash : ... pretty sure my spot light switch illuminates - and when turned on a orange light across the top of the switch lights up.

grill removed - check lights jiggled and dangling - check flat head off plastic black clips - roger swearing at last clip that got totally destoryed in the progress - yip prying open under wheel guards - sure hoist car up, wheels off, more mangled clips and splash guards off - double check spotties, indicators removed - why?? tug at bumper to remove - copy discover two remaining screws in behind licence plate holding bumper on - a ha. realising last two screws have special heads that you don't have a screw driver for - f*@ken S&#t Mutha F*!ken C*#T almost 3 hrs pulling it apart - then having to put it all back together again. Of course with a few parts left over. why subaru, use crazy screws as factory?!

awesome! cheers

.. any tricks to this - or just a number of screws, clips to undo. (for a 98 GC8) I read on another site about disconnecting the battery due to the airbag switches?? If anyone has instructions/copy/scan from a manual muchly appreciated.

Hi all, Did a search but came up empty handed. The aerial on my rex which use to work fine, now refuses to retract all the way when the car is off, or HD changed to CD. There doesn't seem to be any damage/bends in it that would stop it going down. It's just the last section of the aerial - but its those little things that just get annoying. Any ideas?

hi all, my 98 wrx is currently boosting around 18-19psi. it has a vf22 turbo with a 3" exhaust all the way thru to some massive fart-box with 4" tip. (it came like that :) How can I lower the boost to a more 'respectable' reading? Do I need to increase the back pressure, by having a more restrictive exhaust (ie muffer)? Although she can up and more when needed, the vf22 seems a little laggy, is this a symptom of lack of pressure as well?? The muffler is huge, so wouldn't might replacing it anyway - any recommendations? cheers for any advice

The Gobstopper

excellent - next mission acquired.

should there be a light?? This Auto Gauge boost light was already installed in my car when i got it. Tho at night there is no back light. Being mounted where it is, its not so easy to see if there's a wire that I can easily connect up. I've been to the product web page but i think its an older model. Anyone had any experience with this type and getting it illuminated?