timsub

hi was just coming up a windy hill and after a corner on a little bit of boost the engine cut out almost to stalling and put out a cel light and the exhaust light and did it again about 30 seconds later any ideas? has a apex fc and getting a retune on the the 28th

Thanks 4 the reply yea tuned for 98 and only had 98 in it, just gonna get it dynod again and drop the boost a bit. Haha you guys must think I'm a silly c&$& just couldn't face doing it a day after I brought it for a little pin hole, but gonna get a alloy one and swapped my paddock thrasher's rad in there for the time being

Hiya Ive just brought a 97 sti with a rebuilt closed deck block with forged Pistons a apex fc Ecu gfb boost controler and 650cc injectors. It was tuned by torque performance for .9 bar and 1.5 bar and the mechanic says its detonating on high boost. Could this be the tune or would something not be upto the job of the high boost. I was considering getting e and h in puky to give it a new tune to 18 psi or so hoping that's safe I would rather have it not go pop then a little extra power. Also there is a slight split between the radiator and the left side tank that I was going to try use dynasteel epoxy b4 getting a new radiator and putting a stock radiator cap on insted of the 1.3 bar one but after seeing how tiny the water jackets are on a closed deck block I'm leaning towards getting a bigger alloy one to be safe, any advise? Any ideas would be great and gotta say it's awesome being back in a Suby after driving a 0-100 in 22 seconds diesel ute I can't get the smile off my face

thanks for your help but least of my problems now, after owning the legacy for a total of a day and a half i had dccd in the lowest setting and manage to slide it off the road into a ditch and then into a retaining wall, i think i should just stick to my diesel ute..... and if anyone has a rolling body of a legacy or a v 1-3 wrx for sale let me no

also would a boost tap solve it or would it only be able to increase it if its doing this without one cheers

well i just went for a drive to get some milk and gas ( so distracted i drove off without putting it in lol) and on the way in it hit about 16-17 in 3rd then on the way back went well past 20 before i could let off the gas, its an auto gauge gauge which im pretty sure is not the best brand but im reasonably sure its not the gauge, it also surge 3 times on the way back with a fuller tank under boost. its got a sti ecu with a organge airflow meter and red injectors (i think) yup its been running good apart from a bouncy idle, but the owner said there had been some oil in the intake and i notices a little bit of oil splattered around the Bov so maybe that could have something to do with it. haha my old wrx only boosted 9psi without a controller so im ****ting myself in this. i was planning on caging it and using it for my first gravel rally car but it handles bloody well on the road so it seems a bit of a waste when ill probably end up taking it into a ditch, so it will probley stay a road/track car now if it doesn't pop

took some pics but my cousin took my phone cord to ragland and the inter cooler piping and turbo guard thing is in the way, will get some proper ones tomorrow also should have mentioned its got a front mount instead of a top and i think the owner said the waste gate had been bored out? probably has something to do with it. also is there any real benefit to a front mount apart from the added size goes hard on boost but takes a while to spool up. thank you Mr vice president

hiya i just brought a 89 legacy rs r with all the gear out of a 97 wrx with a td05 turbo. its has no boost tap or controller but has been boosting between 18-20 psi, i ask the owner whos a subaru mechanic and he has said because its been sitting for so long ( been a unused track car with a kill switch setup that cuts all power from the battery) it should go back to factory after some k's because the ecu will adapt to it. it did drop down to 15-16 for a little while but then went back up again. so i am wondering if this could be from it sitting for a long time and the wastegates sticky or if its to do with the actual set up. any help or idea's would be great thanks p.s after driving a na diesel ute for 5 months its nice to be thrown back in my seat again haha

f************************ got it all done and it fixed the idling problem now the same thing happened the metal thing for the hose from the reservoir to the left top side of the radiator snapped off on the radiator any ideas for that one or will i have to get a new tank for it?

dam you guys are good, its number one in the picture it looks like there is only one bolt on it is that correct? it should be possible to get it out it'll just be a bit of a f*** around. for bypassing it that sounds like a good idea but would it cause any problems without the water flow thanks

sorry couldn't get my photos to upload but yep one of those bastards. i have tried with a mate but we cant even get a ratchet in there. sorry im a bit lost when you talk about rerouting it do you mean hooking the outtake plastic pipe that was connected to the metal thing that broke into somewhere else and blocking hole up. cheers

hello my 98 wrx is having idling problems and i took the IAC of to clean it out. i have a broken collar bone so had to take the inter cooler off to be able to reach the bolts with one hand. i got everything off expect the hose on the bottom right side that water passes threw and trying to get it off it suddenly came free with the hose still attached, the metal connector thing that comes out of pipes and the hoses goes on ( sorry don't no the name) snapped off the pipe, it looks like it was quite corroded. so my question is, is there anyway to reattach one onto the pipe without takeing it out because the pipe attaches to the engine under a larger pipe which is held in place by a bracket to the engine so i can see no possable way to get to the bolts to get it off. thanks any help would be appreciated Tim