SpeedySub

I got my can at Repco, $25, but gor it cheaper as they were having a sale. Best to call around to make sure they have it first. Only 1 repco in Chch had it.

This may be of some help. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167463 I did find a much better list, but for the life of me can't find the the link to it anywhere. Can't even find it in my history! will keep an eye out and post it up when I find it

Looks like I have been given misinformation about Avgas in my past. I had been led to believe it was good to use in certain modified applications. I do know of someone who was running it in their series 2 RX7, but not sure if running 100% or a blend. It was a reasonably modded RX.

Anyone need some Jetfuel???? Only 50 million litres - maybe a group buy?? http://www.nbr.co.nz/article/cancelled-refinery-strike-leaves-oil-companies-holding-emergency-fuel-shipment-bd-163175

Check the coil pack, on mine it has the cylinder numbers under where the rubber boot goes.

Sweet thanks for the info. That helps, as I couldn't find much info on them. And no I don't have tiptronic (would have liked it though). Last car was a Mondeo with a 3 speed with overdrive that could be switched on or off, that was a real piece of automatic s**t, it ended up losing 2nd and 4th(OD). I went to get a price for a rebuild and they advised it would be probably a minimum of $4000 to fix, not including taking engine and gearbox out (only way to get it out!) and didn't want to put a second hand one it as not sure of qaulity and still needed to get engine out (about a 4 - 6 hour job if everything went right. So the Subaru is so much much better in that respect.

Ok, I have found this. It gives me a little more info but not quite what I was wanting i.e how many gears. This gives some model info and gearbox info https://www.drive.net/l/1980141/ T= Transmission, Z= four-wheel drive, automatic transmission, 1A= Automatic transmission, 4=??? ( maybe the number of gears?) Z=four-wheel drive without a center differential, rear wheel connecting hydraulic clutch (Active AWD), K= 2.5 DOHC (atmospheric), AAA= version type????? (maybe first version of gearbox)

Hi all I have a 1998 BH 2.5 N/A 250T wagon. My question it is supposed to be a 4 speed (4EAT). But it seems that mine has 5 gears! Now I could be counting wrong (counting the times the rev needle drops/feel of gear change). Could it be that the 4EAT has an over drive? 4 speed + overdrive? or I am thinking that it could have had a gearbox change at some point? My last car was a 3 speed + overdrive, what they called 4 speed. I am confused as it appears to me that it has 5 gears. It appears to go into "5th" at about 3000rpm at about 100kph (drops to about 25000rpm at 100kph) The code on the gearbox is TZ1A4ZKAAA-WC. I have looked on the web for info but cannot find anything useful. Any help would be great. Mainly just for my information more than anything. P.S all the gearbox info I could find was for the manual transmissions.

Yesterday I spent the afternoon cleaning up the engine bay a bit. Just getting rid of dirt and grime thats built up on stuff. While doing this I removed the spark plug leads at the coil to get at the manifold area, and noticed that the terminals on #1 and #4 were corroded. Is this normal? I cleaned them up and tried giving the inside of the leads a clean up as well, #1 and #4 seemed a little loose compared to #2 and #3. IS it time for new leads and coil pack or just new coil? or is it ok as it is?

I'm just glad to know what the noise is. Got it booked in tomorrow to get the O2 sensor changed. Should hopefully run better, not that I noticed it was running bad before, but hopefully a little more economical.

Have just been to the dealer (car that is). They were checking A CEL and got them to check the noise from the motor, they have said its piston slap and won't need to be worried about for quite a while. The CEL turned out to be a faulty O2 sensor. So taking the car in on Saturday to get changed.

Last night I tightened up the throttle cable. It had a huge amount of slack in it. Now the throttle response is much more instant and feels slightly faster (I know it won't really be faster but that's the impression when driving)

Not sure about the sticky lifters. The only details I could go by for the oil is the sticker on the windscreen. It says change at 162,000 if I remember right. The dealer is Crowe Sport in Christchurch, good history of Subaru sales and repairs (as well as rally/racing) which is why I brought it from them. As I said before will see if it gets worse over the next week and after a drive up the hill and then take it in and get it checked. It could be that its always been there and I just didn't noticed before.

I have too listened to some you tube videos, but not convinced its the same. Unfortunately when I tried to listen to it yesterday on way home (at gas station) it didn't seem to make the noise. I am wondering if too paranoid about engine noises now after my last car. Will be taking it up the port hills next week so will have a good listen, If it gets worse when going up hill will defiantly take it back in.

That was the plan for tonight. Was going to do it yesterday but with the head cold I had I couldn't be bothered. I did check when I got home on Monday when I first noticed the noise but when I got home it had seemed to have disappeared.

Yeah definatly remember the warranty- the reason I went for a dealer this time! I really just want a bit of background before taking it to the dealer, as I really don't want take it to them and have them say its normal, then once out of warranties it s**ts itself. I do trust the dealer, but just after the problems with my last car I want to cover all the bases. I have also heard that it can be the Timing belt tensioner, not sure if that has been replaced when the belt was done.

Have been doing some investigation, apparently the lifters are solid (correct me if wrong). Also could just be piston slap, have read a few posts on different sites that sound like a similar noise, but listening to the clips doesn't quite sound like mine. Mine sounds more deep when in the car (haven't been able to listen to it under the hood yet. Also note that I have only noticed it in the last couple of days.

Hi all Just notice a noise coming from my engine. This mainly seems to happen from just after start up, but seems to go away just before I get to work/home (about 20 -25min). The noise sounds like its coming from the passengers side of the engine, but can't be sure. The noise sounds like a knocking/taping at idle and is quite noticeable when driving slowly under 25000rpm. It reminds me of a diesel type sound. It is loud enough to be noticeable in the cabin while sitting in traffic with stereo off. Does any one have any ideas what it could be? The car is still under warranty at the dealers but would like to know what it could potentially be (I usually don't like going in without some knowledge)before taking it in. Car is 1998 250T with 154,000kms on the clock and oil level is correct, water is fine and not over heating. I will try to post a video with the sound but have had trouble in the past.

I did buy some Threebond cleaner over the weekend. Thats why I noticed the oil. Smoothed out the idling on the car and does seem to run a bit smoother.

Thanks, thats set my mind at ease a little. My car has done about 168,000k's so not sure if that is high milage for a Sub? I ended up giving it a clean out anyway just in case. I have read a few threads of people adding a catch can, so maybe might do that at some stage money permitting. I'm not so keen on having extra oil in the intake.

Hi All New to the site and to Subarus in general. This is my first Subaru, a 1998 250T. The question I have is I was having a little look around the engine bay and removed the airbox/Manifold? at the TB and there was quite a bit of oil in it (sorry didn't think to take pics). I know that the breather pipes connect to the airbox/manifold but I am a bit concerned that there was a reasonable amount (at least to me). It appeared to be a few mils in there. Is this common? Also I have read that this airbox/manifold is there for low rpm torque, so I am assuming that if I remove this and put a pipe connection directly to this it will change the torque characteristics. I would rather have more torque than more horsepower at the moment, so it would be best to leave on? And yes sorry for the long post - I have been told that I ramble on sometimes!