Percy

Roger. Was only wondering because as you say they do drive nicer, which I know now because Kim has a 2003 BE5 RSK, which I got to hoon on Ruapuna a bit after mine spat the dummy. Will be doing all the mods I can while the engine is out, best time to do a lot of them, and refurbishing anything else in the engine bay while access is easy! I do miss being able to stand in the engine bay (yes folks actually stand on things, like the engine) of me old Valiants, while the engine was still in there! Made maintenance sooooo much easier than on modern cars.

Cheers! It was bound to happen eventually, 240000k's will have an effect on things, no matter how well maintained they are. Aye, will be looking at V7 engines if the current one is toast, or if I find one cheap enough anyway.

Yep, was going bloody good before it went pop tho!! Question for those what know these things, converting a RevC to RevD means changing the engine loom, ECU/ dash loom, ECU and dash over yes? Anything else needs doing? Only asking in case I find a RevD car for cheap, probably not worth doing unless one has the whole vehicle/ front cut to swap bits over.

Don't they cause weirdness during twin turbo changeover? Yeah yeah, someone will suggest single turbo it blah blah, can't afford that malarky at the moment.

Ahh, yes?? Me cheap nasty Aliexpress "Defi" boost gauge beeps at 1.5bar apparently, which alerted me to the spiking, but it may have been going up to just under that without me noticing as I had set the boost controller at 1.2bar the week before. I had looked at the gauge on the first lap to check it and it didn't go over 1.2, so I then ignored it till the beep. Might get a better quality boost controller so it doesn't lunch the new motor. Mind you I haven't checked the controller's knob (hur hur!) to see if it was winding itself out or anything derptastic like that.

Aye, read about half the internets about it, and its most likely a burnt ring/ ring land issue. Current plan is source a non munted running engine, bung that in, then pull the munted one apart and rebuild it better stronger faster! Or if its toast, Sti motor conversion time. Might have to "invest" in a track car too, so I don't keep exploding the daily.

Aye, I will do that, cheers!

I forgot to mention, its puffing smoke out the oil filler, biiiiiig puffs of it. So probably not a turbo issue, which annoyingly would be a lot easier to fix! Another thought is a rebuild, which I could do meself. Does anyone know the approximate cost of all the rebuild bits, ie pistons bearings gaskets etc etc?

Broke it.

So like yeah, I think I had a boost spike or 3 at the track day today, and something has let go or melted internally. Cos now the poor old girl has a miss at idle, smokes like a steam train at start up for about 5-10 seconds, and felt sluggish as driving home (very carefully driving home!) So anyway, I considered some options to fix stuff. Bin the whole thing and get something newer/ less k's etc, can't really afford that right now unfortunately. Replacement engine, probably cheapest option at about $1-1.5k, un-known condition of engine is the only worry, and finding a RevC to match mine could be annoying. Chuck an STi conversion at it, issue the same as option 1, $$$ RevD conversion, possibly the cheapest/ best conversion for me, as Legacy's are a boatload cheaper than Sti WRX's and I like the twin-turboeyness. Also after taking Kims RevD RSK for a couple of laps, it goes a heap better than mine does! Anyway, is there a possibility that all my twin turbo stuff will bolt onto an STi long block, without needing any computery tuning? Also is a non STi WRX engine the same/ similar to a GTB engine? Anyone else got any idea's for a fix that doesn't involve a second mortgage?

Same... Not sure I want to know whats going on here or not.

I agree. My old Subie had a Uni Filter triple layer oiled filter thingy in it for the 9 years I had it, never caused an issue, and I was rather generous with the oil! Current car has a Simota one in it already.

Roger! Best I leave it alone then...

Mint! Cheers fella's!

So if one was to swap the top hats they would fit sweet as?

So does anyone know if the later BL-BP Bilstein struts, will fit a BE-BH, and if not why not? I know the part numbers are different, but that doesn't tell me what the difference actually is.

So looking at that diagram, if one has a MBC installed, theoretically hose 10 does nothing? Or does it still supply pressure or vacuum to something in the BBOD?

Newer BBOD sorted it out! Might try parallel sometime, just for a giggle.

One Litre Castrol oil bottles will screw into a Subaru oil filler neck. Cut the bottom out, and Bam one "factory" oil filler funnel that wont blow/ slip/ spill oil all over the place. No charge for that one, other than buying the one litre of oil in the first place.

Interesting, will give that a whirl tomorrow.

Right, progress is progressing! Several solenoids in my BBOD are dead or dying, which would explain several other things, like the inconsistent single to twin switching. At least I have eliminated the BOV, the IACV, and ECV being the issue! Its the solenoids what that control them which are dead/ dodgy. Might replace teh BOV anyway, for more choo choo.

Roger, will make something ghetto tomorrow. BOV is stock at the moment, if its the issue some form of venting one will go on to replace it, might do that anyway. Hose is straight from manifold to BOV, no pills, as per Marky's Hose10 mod. ECV and IACV are both moving now, I'll take the BBOD out completely and check all teh hoses, they're a bit hard to check properly when its in the car. Then clean the living daylights out of it all!

BOV was filthy, now its not, but i have no way of testing that it will hold pressure. Might concoct something tomorrow. I did find the RH head breather pipe was not connected to the head, but looking at the gunk around it it hasn't been for sometime, so I doubt its the issue. Took it for a longer test drive, in a 100k zone, pulled ok at 0.7 through 2nd, whacked it in 3rd BOV made its chooo noise, boost went back up to 0.7 for a second, then it was like turning the key off, and the CEL came on. Came up with code 66 (no surprise and not very helpful either!). Cleared it then had another go, same result just with violent jerking on and off instead of just off! Fecking thing.

Ahh roger! NGK PFR6G came out looked ok, just quite worn, one the insulator bit was greenish not grey/ brown like the others, no idea what that means. NGK BKR6EIX went in, gapped to .75mm.

Ahh, say what?