Stoffa

a little off topic but here's some short pipework

i've added photos now, you could just redo a short piece to connect them easy as if you look at the third photo

I've been stripping out my engine bay for a respray, pulled the brake booster and clutch cylinder off the firewall today. I was abit puzzled by the amount of length on the clutch lines, they seem pretty long. They zigzag back and forth and have a little "T" peice that connects to a second bleed nipple. Do I really need all that length or can I ditch it all and just use the nipple on the slave cylinder? It would just look a little tidyier with out it there. Couldn't I just take it straight from the master to the end of the clutch hose?

I wouldn't run it untill you've changed the oil cooler thinge, if it had run a bearing there'll be bit of bearing filings in there which will cause it to go again. Those pistons look like V5 sti ones judging by the shape of the dish. If its the one I saw on trademe its only had a hone and new bearings. old rings went back in. so i'm guessing they didn't bother checking the bearing clearances. ...BUT, for the price you cant rally go to far wrong

When I got my cert they listed the front mount but I never failed a wof before I had the cert. Just because its listed on the cert doesn't mean it has to be certed. A good example....They also listed my rear strut brace

How much drama would the evaporator be to pull out of my V5? I'll be in there in the weekend trying to remove my brake booster for an engine bay respray

love it!! I used castrol egde 10w60 its great for cars with a few km's on, now I dont have oil to check

follow the other line attached to the purge solenoid its probably attached to your manifold, remove all the vacuum lines and just block it off at the manifold. dont unplug the solenoid if your running your factory ECU, it'll throw up fault codes

they only need the markings on them if they are hand assembled. The goodridge ones that guy on trademe is selling have the yellow tag but they have no markings. as long as they are a swaged fitting they will pass a wof.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/STI/auction-219593440.htm

I'm after a list of suppliers for CP pistons, if they are capricorn society registered even better.

could be an exhaust leak, you'll definatly know if its a big end bearing. RSB's have solid lifters dont they?? so I wouldn't imagine that would be the problem

sand blasting isn't good for powder coating, any bits of sand that end up pitted into the metal can react with the powder coat. If you take the whole thing to the powder coaters they'll strip it for you

My clutch did 138000kms on V5 sti, when I pulled it out it was still in good condition

definalty WAS, its on its way to my house, comes with paper work too You can get a rear bolt in cage legally, but to use it on the street the rear seats and seatbelts need to be removed and car certed as a 2 seater. You can also get a rear bolt in cage homologated so it can be used on the race track, but if you go down this route speak to someone who builds race cages they have pretty strict rules and regs on their construction this car is legal http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/WRX/auction-215853530.htm

make sure subaru have the throttle body gasket in stock before you pull it apart, mine was ex japan and took 2 weeks. HPC can reproduce the crinkle finish and its a thermal barrier paint too

Thats a bold statement I run a 24mm front bar and an adjustable 22mm rear bar and my car handles brilliantly. I do have DCCD though

you should do your cam seals while your in there too

sorry missed the part about not touching the core, if you buy a new turbo inlet gasket and match port it to that it should increase spool a little, but on a little turbo like that you probably wont notice the difference

you'd probably see more gain just getting a bigger turbo wouldn't you?!! other than exhaust housing porting, I would leave it to the professionals, unless of course you have a turbo balancer lying around. And would you really risk a brand new engine on a crappy old VF10?

2.008 inch Big Ends are 52mm which is correct for all ej20's as i've recently found out. My eagle Rods are 5.137 inches so the crowers are a bit longer

Vf turbos have plastic bearing cages as well, although Steve Murch does an up grade to a bronze cage. I like ronin's idea of having a seprate turbo water cooling system set up, stops all that hot water getting fed back into the heads.

reading from the top gets more heatsoak so reads high, reading from the sump has the rest of the oil to cool a down so reads slightly low. I just changed it as I hate the idea of wires hanging under the sump, mine had gone all crusty and broke from being twisted round and covered in all everytime its removed

they're not really all that flash, a bit hard to read at night, I definatly wouldn't buy brand new

you just need to look hard enough http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=211042221 They're made by Lamco, not Defi dont worry about the surround being broken, they pop up quite regularly as they were on heaps of foresters too. Make sure all the wiring (including the little black box) and sensors are there. Just realise the oil temp sensor mounts into the sump and is kind of crap for the wiring, I ended up modifying mine to plug into top of the block. you can buy them brand new but they retail for around $800 I got my set for about $250 from memory. also another thing is they're smaller (45mm??) than a standard sized gauge (52mm) so you'd need to modify the pod to fit