IZichard
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Posts posted by IZichard
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The id stamping has worn off this turbo, can't really even see a faint outline. (actually I can just make out a "2" but that doesn't really help since they all have a 2 in that position)
So I was hoping someone with a little more experience would have an idea of which turbo it may be. I've narrowed it down to one of vf23,24,28,29 with what I have read online.
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33 minutes ago, slystiguy said:
Inside rumor has it, sometimes supercheat sells castrol edge below cost to get the punters in.
I'd believe that, I always buy my Edge 5w40 from supercheap when it is on special with the club deals. I buy it online, I buy at least 2 because then there is free shipping.
It is cheaper to buy like that than I can from Repco at trade (for 5L anyway).
Supercheap auto don't always have the best prices but they do a hard to beat special on 5L packs of Castrol Edge.
Per the original question. I usually research online and buy online since there aren't really any automotive stores near me. If I'm in the city I definitely will buy things in store as it is always nice to check something out before you buy it.
I also regularly buy things over the phone for stores that I cannot visit and don't have an online store.
Partsouq for oil filters and spark plugs, supercheap for castrol edge on special, repco for a ryco air filter.
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Not today but on Sunday I entered my first loose surface event, nothing serious just a grass/dirt autocross. Heaps of fun but I suck at driving like this.... understeer understeer understeer OVERSTEER. I sort of figured out how to start rotating the car under braking towards the end of the session. I definitely need a lot more practice if I want to be competitive.
Extra bonus, I didn't break the car!
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20 minutes ago, elliotp said:
Hey Guys,
A few months back i was having some starting issues with the car, there was lag when turning the key and the starter motor turning on. This was reasonably intermittent but when it did do it, it may take a couple of minutes of trying to get the starter motor to engage.
So i look it to the mechanic who replaced the contacts and plunger, which did the trick for a couple of weeks, but since then the lag in the starter has been creeping back in, it started out at half a second to a second lag, now it can be up to 5 - 7 seconds delay, depending on the morning. This is also intermittent, once or twice a week. But now i need to start looking at this again before it gets worse. So my thoughts are perhaps its time for a new starter motor. But before i do that, i have a couple of questions:
1 - Should i look at anything else before i replace the starter motor?
2 - I took the car back to the mechanic and mentioned if i replace the starter motor to go with a newer type. Has anyone had any luck replacing starter motors with not exactly the same type for the year? If so are there any suggestions as to what starter motor i should look at?
I`ve seen threads around rebuilding the starter motor, but the links are dead and im not sure if that advise is just around the contacts and the plunger or the brushes on the motor.
Thanks
It sounds like the brushes to me. I'm not sure why your mechanic didn't replace these when he first took it apart as it is a pretty common point of failure for an older starter.
Double check you battery connections, the starter ground, engine grounds and the starter positive are all secure and making a good connection first. These can cause similar symptoms.
If everything else is all good then get the starter looked at/rebuilt by an auto electrician.
You could do it yourself but you will need to find the right size brushes and solder them in which can be tricky.
If you are a gambler you can pick up second hand starter motors for dirt cheap. Which may bean easier option.
Hope that helps
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New:
@SpeedySub Yeah picked up some overalls from Resene Hornby. Got that white "the stig" look going on haha
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Old: Mitre 10 MEGA Papanui
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32 minutes ago, G B said:
Mods: any chance of a face palm emoji?
🙃✋🏻
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Forever alone
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36 minutes ago, Percy said:
So plugs alone did not fix the problem, It is a bit better, but still sounds like a tractor and has no power.
Apparently its making boost, or so the gauge says, just not doing anything with it.
Can't find any leaks, or loose wires etc.
Anyone have any ideas?
I'm hoping its not jumped the belt on a cam pulley or something stupid like that.
In other news, swapped the tyres round so the B4 now has the RE003's on it, and got it some new wheel nuts cos the chrome was flaking off the old ones.
Now I just need to clean the wheels and takes some unfilthy pics...
Very worn out plugs can cause damage to the coil or leads also. The spark attempts to find an easier route to ground than the plug. Would pay to check those for any signs of arcing.
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Changed the cambelt, water pump and cam seals on the gc8.
Mounted a fire extinguisher on the seat rails in the wagon and changed the oil. Then I washed, clayed and waxed the wagon. Now the paint is all clean you can see all the rock chips from winters down here. It is definitely a ten metre paint job, don't look too close.
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4 minutes ago, Subru said:
Generally I check just after a drive but definitely has a decrease over few weeks however maybe this is because i overfilled it. I never let it get even close to the 'low' marking. I might not fill it up unless it gets really low and see if it still leeks. Yes brand new 1.1bar. I dont recall hearing a gurgle under the dash so ill have to listen out for it next time.
Could bleed it again to get air bubbles out.
Just keep driving it and checking it. Don't fill it up unless it is at or below the L mark and see what happens. If it keeps dropping below the L try bleeding it again.
If the car is warm the level in the overflow will be higher and if the car is cold the level will be lower, just so you better understand what you are looking at.
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16 minutes ago, Subru said:
For a while now I have been losing a little bit of coolant out of the milk bottle reservoir, I top it up to above the full line and have to check it every two or three weeks. Mechanic did a leak test and head gasket test and both came up with no leaks/blown head gaskets, the mechanic said coolant could be seeping through the radiator cap so I brought the proper sti one but its still losing coolant somehow. Does it matter if I fill up the bottle above the full line as im sure the first drive after I top it up there is a noticeable difference in the level...
During normal operation the level should move up and down between the L and F marks. The radiator cap will open and close to let coolant in and out of the system as the temperature changes.
Are you checking it when it is at the same temperature each time?
Was the radiator cap you bought brand new? What pressure is it rated to? I think the STI caps are 1.1bar instead of the usual 0.9bar but i'm not 100%
You shouldn't fill it above the full line, there is deliberately room left in the top of the overflow bottle so that the coolant can "overflow" into it as it expands in the cooling system.
It would be a good idea to check that the front passenger carpet is dry under the dash. It could also be an air bubble in the system somewhere allowing coolant to boil off.
Do you hear a quiet gurgle under the dash when you first start the car?
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As title, where did everyone buy their 100% cotton overalls? I checked my local mitre 10 but they only have cotton/poly blend overalls.
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Any v8 wrx or sti bumper should work, just needs to be a sedan bumper and of course sedan lights. I've seen people use the v7 bumper but just cut out a small amount so the lights fit.
The V9 bumper is slightly different to fit with the small flares on the rear arches so stick to v8.
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21 minutes ago, Subru said:
Whats the benefits of locking bolts? Does it just align the subframe properly?
They basically just bolt the rear subframe to unibody, instead of being connected with the factory rubber bushes. You may need an alignment afterwards as when installing them the subframe can move in relation to the rest of the car.
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1 hour ago, calebwrx said:
Me and the Mrs did a thing.....pics and details to be shared tomorrow, but it's nothing too exciting and actually quite tame.
BP Outback soon to be slammed???
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5 minutes ago, Firenza said:
Yep, should be. Always wanted to visit the South island, so this is a good excuse
Awesome, can't be a true Kiwi until you have visited the mainland!
The best bits are south of Christchurch IMO.
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1 hour ago, 1randomkiwi said:
I wasn't even aware voting had opened... Kinda glad my car isn't featured. Would be hard to look at.
Sorry, I voted for you
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The whole idea of a proper pulley holder is to avoid damaging the resin pulleys, which shouldn't be clamped due to them being relatively fragile.
You don't clamp onto the actual pulley itself because as cooper found out and you mentioned they crack. You use the vice grips to help tension the belt so that it doesn't jump a tooth when loosening the bolt. I'll try find a picture to help explain. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
Like this:
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I did mine using the old timing belt like you attempted. I went between the one cam pulley I was working with and the crank but it was a really sh*tty job to do as the cam bolts are ridiculously tight (~70ftlbs iirc). I actually couldn't undo one of my cam bolts and decided to not change the seal on that one because I thought it was going to cause more grief than it was worth..
A small electric impact makes this job much easier provide it doesn't round the internal hex on the bolts. I would have used a cam locking tool but my car has avcs intake cams and the tool I had was made for non-avcs cams meaning it didn't fit.
A cam locking tool or an impact makes this easier but it is definitely possible with just the old belt, some vice grips and a breaker bar..
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40 minutes ago, juanccy said:
Hi guys,
I recently bought a BG5 94 Legacy Ts-R and planning to do a timing belt change. However it's giving me a headache to find the kit online. Does this engine share parts with EJ25D? Like this kit for example. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayco-Timing-Belt-Kit-for-Subaru-Outback-BG-EJ25D-2-5L-4cyl-DOHC-KTBA161HP-/181853365634?epid=11004707594&hash=item2a574e2582:g:39kAAOSwXeJYEJeI&vxp=mtr
Thanks a lot.
You should really go genuine for the timing gear. Talk to you local Subaru parts place, I think they do a deal for timing belt kits that aren't too dear. They will also be able to give you parts that will be correct.
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Tidied up a few things on the GC8 today. Put the front lip back on. Replaced the clock bulb in the gauge cluster so I can actually see what time it is. Removed the Speedline wheels and swapped the tyres over to the Rays Gramlights. Fitted some hubcentric rings into the Rays wheels and bolted them on the car. I also installed some whiteline LCA rear bushes with the offset position for more caster. I still need to give it an alignment.
I also noticed one of the front inner CV boots is beginning to split
Grrr... I hate CV grease splatter.
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6 minutes ago, Kiwiflyboy said:
Yeah can’t miss that one now. Need to do that to all the pot holes around Chch too!
Nah didn’t forget but haven’t managed to get out. Anyone get one up before me feel free to go for itIf only....
I won't be back in Christchurch until FlatNats so it won't be me.
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On 20/09/2017 at 1:37 PM, Kiwiflyboy said:
Finally got around to getting to Riccarton bush and snapping a photo. I’ll throw up a new one tomorrow.
Ooh, they re-did the carpark! That speed bump looks flash now.
Did you Forget about the new one?
The best bits are south of Christchurch IMO.
Grrr... I hate CV grease splatter.
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Can anyone identify this turbo?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
As in damage to the leading edge or contact with the compressor housing?
Edit: Nvm you said turbine.
How bad are we talking? That whole angle shouldn't be there? lol
It is such a perfect edge on all of the blades, it feels like it was made like that. What do I know though haha.