thewabbit1
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Posts posted by thewabbit1
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2 hours ago, scratch said:
the easiest way is take a feed off at the headlight bulb to a relay, then your feed to the isolation switch goes thru the normally open side of the relay before the switch.
I hope this makes sense
Confused me a bit, so here's my take on the same scenario. I always find relays stupidly hard to explain
So the light bar side of the relay doesn't change (still hooked up to the batt).
The trigger of the relay changes. Instead of the switch opening/closing a 'constant' 12v source, the 12v source is actually fed off the high beam. So when high beams are on, you can flip the switch and the relay will turn on. If the high beams are off and the switch is on, there is no voltage/current coming through the trigger, therefore the relay doesn't switch.And don't take the 12v off the lights side of the highbeams relay, take it from the switch side
something like this (i think)
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Slow, remember stopping distances are much greater. Don't be violent/abrupt when steering/braking, be gentle and predictabe with your movements
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Did my first track day ever on Saturday (Ruapuna). Heaps of fun, managed to spin it on the second lap of the first session (coming out of the hairpin). Started the day with times ~2min, and finished with consistent 1:55s and managed a 1:53.9 on my second to last lap. Definitely pointed out some weak points on the car (mainly pads/rotors) and gave me heaps of stuff to learn!
Car didn't miss a beat, used hardly any oil and temp stayed at normal driving levels
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Gotta be careful with them... this was in the news a few days back
https://www.tvnz.co.nz/one-news/new-zealand/nzta-warns-car-enthusiasts-illegal-light-modifications-trademe-looks-sellers-fudging-details -
My mates old flatmate had an atmos BOV on an auto caldina (turbo obvs) and it would vent all the time
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Installed a fire extinguisher under the passenger seat ready for the track day in a few weekends!! Nervously excited
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https://www.stuff.co.nz/auckland/104356124/auckland-council-approves-regional-fuel-tax
Well this will be interesting. I reckon AKL will only see a small increase and the rest of the country will also see an increase to cover the 'losses' in AKL
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Not neccessarily cool, but got a laugh out of it
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My guess would be larger cold side means more volume of air available post the (relatively) restrictive I/C
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21 minutes ago, Joker said:
is not TM but a mate is listing his dads 4wd Justy asking 1500 for it near CHCH
https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/58735-fs-subaru-justy-4wd1985-chch/
you may need to sign in to view
Yesss!!! Love me a justy. My first car was one, 2 door, 3 cylinder, alloys, <100,000km. Miss it heaps. Even had a button in the gear knob to enable/disable 4wd. Bought it for 1900, sold it for 1700 after hitting a letter box
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Damn there's scum about. It amazes me how they can get away with it in a 'secure' car park like that. A similar situation a few weeks ago at Wellington Airport.
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Picked these up for a bargain yesterday. Like the look of them, but they sit really high....
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1 hour ago, AnimalJnr said:
I also read somewhere that you can take hose one off at the BBOD and insert a 0.8m pill and it apparently helps a lil with the change over.
Yep, thats hose 1 mod
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Z/S Controller apparently won't help much on the rev Ds - but in saying that i'm low key after one as well (got a BH5 rev D).
I've done the hose 10 and hose 1 mods - seemed to make a small difference to change over, and have also change the pipes under the I/C to silicone - gives a bit more flow.
You're not going to get much power out of a TT setup, if you want power, single turbo convert it. Because you have a rev D its tuneable - i'm considering getting a tune for mine at some point. Not sure what it'll give me.
The best performance change you can make to it (other than handling) is to learn how to drive with the two turbos. Learn when the change over happens and how to drive around it. Want to fang it? run the second turbo out, then change. Otherwise your gonna shift into the VOD and loose all boost. It takes a bit, but once you've figured it out, its pretty fun and suprisingly quick
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i don't see why not... but again, don't rely on me for this
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i'd hazard a guess that front door+glass fit, and rear door fits but not rear glass..... thats just a guess, based on me eye balling the two vehicles
Also if noone on here knows, try uklegacy (uk) or subyclub (aus)
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22 minutes ago, 1randomkiwi said:
Damn that looks good.
Should get a quote to get the other ones tidied up
Yea, asked how much it would cost through the panel beaters and was quoted $180 per wheel.... wasn't so keen at that stage, but now.... gonna see what other places will quote me
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Got my car back from the panel beaters after a prang a few weeks back. There was slight damage to the passenger side front wheel so that was repaired. It is now in immaculate, as new condition. The other three wheels are in good condition, but god damn does the repaired one make them look S***!!
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You're not a real Subaru owner till you leave your lights on for days on end
EDIT:
or till you clean you car and accidentally turn the park lights on
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11 minutes ago, csrgm1915 said:
Sorry guys it’s a 07 Legacy Gt-B Wagon
If this helps haha.
So would a rear sway bar and front strut brace (out of the 3 items available) be the ideal combination?
I definetly dont want want to introduce more understeer if a front sway bar may do so!!
Would the rear sway bar be able to be installed at home too? I’m always keen to do things myself where I can as I have plenty of tools
Yep, easy install. Even easier if you have ramps. Bit harder with jack stands. It's about 6-8 bolts/nuts, 2x2 for the sway bar mounts and 1 (or 2 if you're changing endlinks) on each end of the sway bar
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6 minutes ago, Joker said:
can you Narrow down what Chassis or year GTB you have? they range from the GT/B Spec in 1993 to late 2000's GT - B Specs ie 2nd Gen through to the 4th Gen Legacy's 2005
might be obvious to others who have seen your posts but will help the guru's narrow down what path to track down
hur durr, I insta thought BH. But yea, BP/BH/BG are all different. Have edited my original post
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In my BH I have a front strutbrace (STI), rear sway bar (whiteline), underbody k-frame (cusco), rear strutbrace (Z/S). They were installed in that order (months between each one).
Not sure how they will effect a BG/BP, but below is what I encountered on my BH
After the front brace, noticed no (maybe a little bit) difference. When the rear sway bar was installed I noticed a huge difference. The rear was less boat-like, centred/re-balanced a lot faster and has invoked less understeer and some more tail movement. k-frame really helped with the turn in and corner stability, also reduced understeer. The rear strut tower was noticeable, firm up the rear part of the car, felt a bit less body twist (not roll) in the corners.
No comfort loss, but definitely a handling change.
To rank the braces I have:
- rear sway bar
- k frame
- rear strut
- front strut
Someone else may argue that the order should be different, but this is what I thought. I'm not sure on front sway bars, but think that they may introduce some more understeer - happy for someone to correct me on this
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Could you let us know what car/year you have?
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jesus that things huge
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If this helps haha.
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Who's Online 1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 117 Guests (See full list)
What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
@Subru I got some vinyl decals from these guys: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-caliper-sticker-decal-cut-letters-fit-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-rally-front-X2-/201831506109?var=&hash=item74d924181d
Have stood up well, no peeling or anything (been on the car for ~2 years)