thewabbit1
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Posts posted by thewabbit1
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53 minutes ago, Gripless said:
looked at trying to run power cable for amp.
Holy F*** the amount of sound deadening which is hard and molded into shape and cramped space behind the dash.
guess tomorrow I'll either take the intercooler off and cut the sound deadening away or take a wheel and inner guard off.
There isn't an existing grommet somewhere in the firewall you can use?
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I bet coming in tenth place really stung Kia....
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Thanks @sobanoodle @Gripless @evowrx @les666 for all of that. Gives me a good place to start
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Took the legacy out to SAS this morning to talk about a tune, he can tune it, but he needs the definition files... Anyone have any for a bh/be? Long shot I know
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40 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
Other question would be what makes you think you need to do it?
How old is the pump? If it’s the original a new pump could be worthwhile doing at the same time.
Just had cambelt down and they did a theother 100k inspections, one of those things was the fuel filter, but when i heard the price i quickly said no thanks
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I'm planning on haha, just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something
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7 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Guessing its not someone whos done one before. Even for me it was a 30min job. Would be max 60 minutes going very carefully which is what say 80+gst unless its a dealer at $120+gst or whatever. Cant imagine that was a dealer quote tho....
It was a quote from a well known Subaru mechanic in CHCH....
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So I need to do my fuel filter at some point in the (not immediate) future. Got quoted $350 for it replaced!?!?!
Had a look at partsouq and the filter is ~$50 (https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=42072AE000)
Am i missing something? is it harder than simply removing the rear seat and fuel pump assembly and then replacing the filter??
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6 minutes ago, Gripless said:
Looks interesting but not cheap when you have to spend another USD$115 to get sensors and centeral hub and the warning light which is the most important.
digital gauges are good for co drivers or diagnostics but you can't glance at them on track.
The site defaults to AUD, the 250 includes the sensors, you can also set it up to show a mix of different sized readings
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22 minutes ago, McMatty said:
Where did you find the gauge pod?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkTrademe - its an Autogauge one.
I happened to stumble across these guys tonight - a whole suite of gauges with a digital display ~$250NZD incl shipping... kinda tempting...
https://www.justraceparts.com.au/auto-gauges/digital-multi-gauge -
Valid point. Thought on oil pressure /temp? Worth it for an occasional track day?
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So I have plans to get the BH5 tuned, and for that I need (would like) a wide band. To also keep my mind at rest I thought I might aswell get an oil temp/pressure gauge as well. I bought a gauge cluster to sit on the dash to mount them in.
Its early days and I'm going to sit on it for a few weeks, but am interested to hear what you guys think of it....
Also keen to hear if anyone here has had there BE/BH (revD ) tuned. Touched base with SAS (I'm in chch) a while back but will follow up again soon to check they're able to and what it'll set me back
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Pulled the whole interior out and gave it a super good vacuum and carpet clean. Happy with the result
And damn are seats heavy! I can see why people strip the interior when tracking cars, be able to save a good 50kg from the legacy
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2 hours ago, IZichard said:
Is that a legacy equivalent of the casa Blanca? Or is it just a random oddball factory option?
I'm hoping, as the number plate says, its just the one and only...
God knows what was going through Subarus head when they made that and the Casablanca
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These are tuned for 100+ octane from japan... would only ever consider touching 91 to get me to a petrol station to put 98 in (and i'd put only enough to get me there).... and even the one time I've had to run 95 i played the 'lets-keep-boost-below-0-psi' game. Maybe i'm being too cautious? But i don't really want to get a new engine....
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rarely, my unit is slightly different to yours
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Yea, mine shows random Japanese, i just ignore it. And it will dim when your lights are on. Stops the driver being blinded at night
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yea, i think i just tapped them. I'd say the throttle issue could be the battery - but don't quote me. If it doesn't come right tomorrow find someone to talk to who knows what they're on about
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that could explain your battery drain? i dunno.... hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge than me can help!!
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possibly, i'm still not 100% confident i understand the relay wiring so that could be the issue.... you're certainly close to getting sussed!
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All good, yea, the two wires you're effectively shorting will go on those pins. And yes, the multimeter on those pins too - that's to check that the relay activates when you turn the car on
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Yea, that should be the case. Re the multi meter - most should have a continuity setting that buzzes when a circuit is complete/open ie put each lead either side of hte section of the circuit you want to check. May need to read the manual that came with it to see if yours has it
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Vampire connectors make it real easy to splice into an existing wire without cutting, I've just always used chocolate blocks, any other connector is fine. And yes, prepare to graze your knuckles a bit, its pretty tight
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soooo..... (this is thinking back a while.....)
On the (square? or maybe round) plug that joined the satnav to the stereo I poked around and tested all combination of the plugs (used a paper clip). I found two, that when join, would power the unit on. Stripped back those wires and connected them to a relay base like this (https://www.jaycar.co.nz/horn-relay-base/p/SY4069) with this relay (https://www.jaycar.co.nz/spdt-30a-horn-relay-12v/p/SY4046). In my earlier post i think i got the pins on the relay around the wrong way... Have a read up on how a relay works - it will help.
So, in terms of wiring the unit I made use of vampire clips and chocolate blocks soldering would be best, but this has survived nearly 3 years with no issues
85 goes to ground, typically black wire in your radio harness, use a multi-meter to check and tap it in with a vampire clip
86 goes to the switched 12v source (the one that turns your radio on) usually red or yellow/red, again a vampire clip
Its always good to test thing as you go, so in this case turn the car on (so the radio turns on) and using the continuity function on your multi-meter check that pins 30/87 are connected.
Then, using the chocolate blocks, connect the stripped wires to 30 and 87. Some relays may have 5 pins, thats fine, you don't need the last one.
It may sound hard, but really its not. I'm no electrician, i've played around, blew a few fuses, wrecked a few bulbs/voltage regs ect, if in doubt, use your multi meter. If you get nothing, its likely you blew a fuse - nothing major, that's why you have fuses (also grab a few spares - i think the radio circuit is a 10a... may be wrong on that....)
If that all works, you will now have a working after market stereo and a/c controls!
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Seems to be a bad few days for BH5s....