mitch8198

I feel like my old 5speed is a ticking time bomb lol @Kiwi_Fozze I hear you're the man to talk to about some basic launch guidance. heres how mine is at the moment, any tips? trying to keep it rich on launch to keep egt's down on the poor old hydraulic heads. 4200 & -10deg is enough to build 0.6bar and spin all 4 cheap tyres wonder if dumping at 6k like everyone seems to would just result in even more tyre (or clutch) smoke!

if you dont mind me asking whats special about a the "V6" that makes them so in demand? from what I've read you get a little different exterior trim, remote central locking and here in NZ 12monthly wof's haha

haha its your car do what you want I'd argue the fresh driveline etc improves the desirability of the car, purists can get lost.

wow, one of 2000, special car you've got there man

STi RA Limited?

thanks for the all the good info, great to know that before I started hacking up what is likely a phase 1 injector based on the v3/4 sti mani that someone put on. nice work @shadywrx that engine bay just looks perfect.

a-ha, makes sense. Are you on stock internals? 20psi might be pushing my luck for the poor old ej20g. The yellows are at ~95% duty cycle too, will have to decap & retune

Model: V3 WRX Displacement: 2L Mods: VF30, Link G4+, V7 STi top mount, V1 RA cdb, 440's, fpr, Link bcs, Link iat, full catless exhaust & headers. Fuel: BP 98 Tuner/dyno: Keith Stewart / Dynapack 179.5awkw @ 15psi: posting up for comparison, would love to know what everyone's doing to get like 190+ out of similar setups

Idk how far you want to go with this but It is possible to convert to electric speedo by getting a V4 speed sensor (phase 1 gearbox) and sticking it in your gearbox then wiring up to back of cluster. There may also be wiring differences so do your own research. The Americans do lots of random things to their cars, one of the many threads that turned up when I was googling it myself a few months ago: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1776925&highlight=mechanical+to+electronic

Yeah, I would never have picked up the last owners mistake without the hub dyno. I don't feel any change in the handling, on a sealed road shouldn't it just act like an open diff? Will give jacking it up a crack and have a look

Yeeessss it was actually kind of cool on Manfield. wondered why the back kept stepping out: I had the world's cheapest setup for a drift wrx. Wish I had a button to turn it back to proper 50:50 awd like the focus..... (for tuning purposes only )

Thanks evowrx really good to know I'm not the only one. yeah even now I've fixed the ratios his dyno really doesn't like my car haha. Thanks for the offer, will keep that in mind when I get around to replacing it. (ie before next track day haha) We managed to get a good enough tune on it for now and the car drives great. First mod should have been a Link

Finally got a v7 dash and a Link G4+ in my v3 wrx and was ready for the dyno. Keith Stewart is doing the tuning so bolted it up and the back hubs spun faster than the front . He made a good call that there were incorrect ratios going on. Must be when the previous owners swapped to the 4.44 ratio V4 STi box in my parts car, they left the original 4.1 ratio diff in there Put a proper 4.44 rear diff in and Keith got it tuned to 180awkw He was still having trouble getting it to hold rpm on the dyno, the controller kept getting confused as one minute power was 50/50 and then the next the car starts surging and the front hubs are spinning faster than the rear. We only managed to get a couple proper power runs after 4.5+ hours. My question is, has anyone experienced this before? Given ive done a couple track days with the car like this plus the previous owners kms aswell, maybe the centre diff fluid is so stuffed now it cant even keep them going the same speed.

I have got a few from many places across the internet haha. old forum links go dead etc and they can be hard to track down again. Heres a V1-2 WRX Manual, just download, open with adobe reader and click the bookmark labeled "Wiring Diagrams" https://1drv.ms/b/s!Ah8ilcC7VAn3-DbkPd_r6fVawyKa Also have V3-4 and V7-11 aswell if anyone needs.

It confuses people a little, 1.5 badging, no tailgate spoilers or sideskirts then 18x8s and a turbo under the bonnet

A mate and I converted a 1.5i fwd to wrx everything, all we did was bolted it all in like stock from the crashed wrx. Took just the car to the cert guy and passed, no need for drive shaft hoops, paperwork etc. Maybe we got off lightly? EDIT: Didn't check dates lol sorry for bump

the 3plug pnp links get snapped up on trade me pretty quick, ill keep an eye out. forester ecu cant keep up with the VF30, local mechanic suggested I fit a tap in the meantime, probably will kick in quicker to control the boost spike, even if its set at factory pressure. Thoughts?

Took the external gate off, made a block off plate, just running off the internal gate. Plumbed it up to the 3 port boost solenoid off your car, running the map sensor off the silver car. Dunno how well the forester ecu is coping with a solenoid it's not used to.

Fixed the problem, put everything back together and drove her yesterday. Surprisingly everything works, idles nice, timings perfect, temp gauge right in the middle, revs out really well. I had the wires for crank position sensor on backwards which meant base timing was at 10deg ATDC not 10deg BTDC, no wonder it diddnt run. Swapped them over and car started first crank no worries. I do have a problem with the boost, it sort of spikes to a nice 1bar at 4k rpm the car surges and then immediately drops back to like 0.5bar. Not sure what's going on there, might be the forester ECU desperately trying to control a VF30 with the fancy open headers and exhaust. I've never driven a WRX so I dont know what it should feel like. Thanks for the help everyone, its been a big learning experience for me, See you all at Flatnats...

thanks for all your help, found injectors plugged the wrong way after your advice yesterday gas is a few weeks old 91 i put in to start it, 98 will go in asap if i try to drive it. still looks like a electrical problem, ill see if anyone whos good with wiring can shine some light on it.

Ok, still can't get it going. Hooked up timing light and it showed very retarded timing, like 10deg atdc? Anyone had this before?

no code given from the test connectors either. did have one for cam angle but moved the plug around and it went away

pretty sure leads are on correct cylinders, just in order of their location on coil pack. injectors havent been touched, reg was showing 50, turned it down to just over 40. havent checked earths, voltage is 12.5 dropping to 11 at startup as shown on the turbo timer, will do a proper check on ecu and battery with a multimeter soon. thanks man, might be voltage. can the cam/crank angle sensors send incorrect signals? it is almost misfiring, like the spark is going off at the wrong time.

ok so I have a big problem now any help would be much appreciated, it starts but doesn't run right. It cranks over for ages before it fires then idles really rough with the engine shaking all over the place and dies when I add any throttle. almost like its a timing/spark issue. Video link below: [video=youtube;kNzWgdzO_Us] Ignore the squeaky starter, that's off my daily, I blew the original one. ideas everyone? (thanks stevie, I'm getting there)

ok so time for a big update, engine is finally fully bolted in and I connected up all the vaccuum lines, heater hoses and throttle cable. Swapped over the boost control solenoid onto the new style mounts. the wiring, everyones favourite part I pieced together wiring diagrams for both the old 20G and the newer 20K. (the silver car has 20K style wiring and 3 plug ecu) I started writing down the differences between the wiring looms in order to plug my 4 plug Z5 ECU in. I thought that I shouldn't be downgrading the silver car to the unreliable Coil on Plug AND shifting all the wires to fit an older style ECU. I wanted a 3-plug instead, this leaves me with a easy '20K upgrade path. Looked at V4 STi chips (6S etc) but they run the 8:1 CR (not 8.5:1 like the 20G) and have aggressive timing, rev limit and boost maps for my engine. I then found on the internet that SF5 Foresters run the old '20G engine and had late style wiring and wasted spark. I bought a Wasted Spark coil setup from a 250T legacy and matching 4W ECU from a manual forester. This all fitted on my car well (it already has a V4 manifold) and I adapted the engine loom to '20K style wasted spark using the newer ignitor I found on the car. Found that my mystery random round plug on the RHS of the engine bay originally had the Cam, Crank and Knock sensors connected to it. Sensors like these on the red car had such a hack job of wiring them in the past I had to trial and error the pins on the ECU with a multimeter then match up to the '93 pin out, then match up to the untouched loom and pinout on the '20K style wiring. Checked every single wire in the engine loom with a multimeter making sure they all did exactly what I thought they did from the diagrams (didn't want to blow my ECU on the first crack) Found a battery and turned the key, all dash lights came on, even the CEL so my ECU had booted up. No starter or fuel pump however, must be old AT wiring messing with things. Found an awesome thread on NASOIC about the specific wiring in a manual conversion. Found the reversing lights circuit pins on 9&10 and the ECU Neutral Safety switch on 11&12 of the small AT plug and then wired up accordingly and jumpered the cabin park sensor switch so I could get my key out of the ignition. Still no pump or starter. Must be the aftermarket immobilizer in the car, never ever used one so I googled about them, didn't know I had to "disarm" it with the fob the owner gave me. Clicked it once and the interior LED stopped strobing at me, fuel pump kicked in and the starter worked (yay) still no spark from the timing light I borrowed. Plugged the black read connectors in to check, no flashing error code, it should at least have picked up that I don't have a Purple sticker AFM yet. Guess I should reset the ecu first so it can start getting the codes afresh, plugged the green test mode connectors in as well and went through the ECU reset process. Unplugged the connecters and turned the engine over so the ECU could get a reading and then it randomly fired into life. So stoked did it with no intercooler, no AFM and wires spread everywhere. The only error codes were for my missing AFM and the starter circuit being interrupted by the immobilizer. If you got through all that, well done, this writeup is also for myself so if I have issues I know exactly what I did to the car. TLDR: Rewired some things, used a Forester ECU, found out how an immobilizer works and got the car started. Now ill put the car back together when my purple AFM arrives and drive this thing.