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McDoof

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Posts posted by McDoof

  1.  Andy_Mac said:
    Cheers man, but already got a tactrix. Used it for my last cryotune. Could go back to him but the idea of doing it on a dyno and getting it done straight away rather than a month of f'ing round would be worth the extra coin. Quite like the idea of differing boost maps based on SI drive mode which i believe he can do too.

    PM Matt and book it in. And yes he can do the SI drive boost maps.

  2. Yes he's in Auckland too from the 22nd to the 24th of October. We are looking at booking a dyno for the day on Friday the 23rd for those that want it. Let me know if you want book in some time and I'll get him in touch with you

    Edit: Here are the actual dates

    Auckland: 22nd, 23rd, 24th

    Wellington: 24th/25th

    Christchurch: 25th/26th

  3.  
    As I said before Im happy with the car, more curious about it. Wouldn't mind a bumping the torque though, not really worried about the HP side of things, I know having a N/A 2.5 is never going to be a power monster or readily up-gradable. Will be looking at a fourth Gen for the next family wagon.

    If you are looking to just give it a tune then I would probably not go with XRT. I know people from the Aussie forums that have used him and then retuned afterwards with better results. Personally I can't speak highly enough of Matt Mcleod. He is Kido_tuning on the aussie forums and Throttlehappy on the US forums. He is reasonably priced @ $400 and does free retunes for the life of the car in case you ever do any mods to the car. He is in Christchurch on the 24th and 25th of October so he could do a road tune for you. He only comes to NZ very rarely.

  4.  SpeedySub said:
    I have just been in contact with xtreme tuning (saw an ad on facebook). I asked what they could do for my 1998 BH9 2.5 N/A engine. They have come back saying they can bump the HP by 20 and Tq by 50. The price for this is $850. This is without any engine/exhaust/intake mods. The question is would it be worth it and how noticeable would the changes be. I was under the impression that you couldn't do anything to the ECU. I can post the full email if anyones interested.

    I have to agree with Marky here. If you really want more power then get a GTB. They are pretty affordable these days and will put a good smile on your face. Better handling, more power and just nicer on the inside in most cases. If you can afford it get a post facelift (2001 onwards)

  5. I had a 2000 GTB and I loved the thing. But I think a facelift model would have been better due to the ability to smooth out the engine with a reflash. The earlier cars we just a bit like they had to be driven hard to be smooth-ish. Never drove an auto though so this was just a manual car. Almost bought another before picking up my current car. I found half of them would not spool up the primary turbo properly and felt laggy up to 4500RPM. As for fuel consumption. I found that it used 12.5l/100km all day every day. Town, open road, driving like a nana or driving like it was a rental. So very consistent. Reliability was OK. In the 40k I drove it, the radiator blew up which is a common thing and I had to replace the MAF so that it would stop CEL turning on all the time. Anyway, I still think they are amazing value for money.

  6.  Marky said:
    I'm not sure if you're arguing or agreeing with me tbh

    The argument of "not all engines are the same and one tune does not suit all" is fair if you have a heavily modified car and/or a knife edge type of tune, but for a general touch up etc it's no different to the stock tune (which is also identical for every car)

    A bit of both :-)

    We all know that stock tunes are pretty pants. Most of Subaru's stock tunes will pull timing by dropping the IAM

    This bit is only my opinion, so I'm open for discussion.

    Pre made custom tunes could go in 2 directions. 1. A good safe tune that will work on pretty much any engine that is stock. I think these are actually a good start. This would be what most E-tuners would send you as a starting point and is normally 80% of the way there 2. If the tune has been custom made to a specific engine and not normalised for the mass market so to say then I think these are a bad idea because your engine may not be as good or as bad as the engine it was made for and you could either end up damaging your engine (worst case) or with worse performance.

  7. Yea. Kido_tuning (Matt) did a great job on my 3.0R and he is busy doing my mates GRB JDM Sti. He's turned that into a weapon. So I would recommend Matt all day every day. He is actually going to be in NZ at the end of October so he can do a proper road tune too. Price stays the same $400. Cryotune had a go at my car about 2 years ago and the result was far from spectacular. It was one of his first 3.0Rs though.

  8. You can get a decent e-tune for $400. Matt from the Aussie (Kido_Tuning) forums knows the EZ30 inside out and will make it much nicer to drive. You will need a tactrix cable (or borrow one) but it's worth it.

    For Handling start with a Rear sway bar upgrade. Either Whiteline or Cusco. It will reduce the body roll a bit without making it too firm.

  9. I have a MY05 3.0R and have done headers and some exhaust with a remap. Best thing I ever did. MUCH more torque and worth every penny imho. You can't get rid of the big air box in front of the intake unless you are going forced induction. You can replace it with an aftermarket unit from Kakimoto but you will need to spend a fair bit for relatively small gains. But if you are wanting a starting point for performance on the 3.0R then a remap is the first and best thing.

  10. I have an anycarlink plugged into the CD changer port on the McIntosh system. Gives me bluetooth and Aux input plus SD card etc. The sound quality for music is outstanding on the bluetooth. It goes a bit soft for voice calls for some reason though. Also upgraded the parcel shelf sub with a kicker unit that punches a bit harder along with some dynamat on the shelf. A worthwhile investment.

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