blitzd808
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Posts posted by blitzd808
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Because i had to deal with the cert recheck during level 3 up in Auckland, just ended up putting the factory stuff back in
i get 'legally' why they make it an issue but also real stupid.
I'd also get some heat shielding for the brake lines and clutch lines up above the turbo if you're factory location - they made a point of that too
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Have you got anything in the way of other suspension upgrades? I had my RS certed last year and they wanted an engineers report on the whiteline bump steer kit. Also had a bunch of suspension parts which were "too close" to other things and s**t like that but i cant even remember the specifics of that. I didnt need a driveshaft hoop and my tune came out at about 205kW on an aftermarket turbo.
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Hey (Auckland based) folks,
Any recommendations about how best to restore a classic 90s vinyl dash? have a spare for my RS as the current one has holes and $h!7 from previous owner dash gauges...
Have heard about vinyl dye from the likes of repco etc but concerned about colour match (so if anyone has advice on this route keen to hear) otherwise i'm more than happy to pay someone if need be.
Hopefully pic attached works haha
Cheers
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Yeah for what its worth, in terms of the 'nit picky' comments:
1. change my boot seal
2. space out sway bar
3. driveshaft hoop (i'm only at 205kW)
are a few of the things that come to mind haha
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Probably not the answer you're looking for, but your best bet might be to just call up a certifier that you might want to use and talk specifically to them. They are the ones who will end up making the say on your car (i.e. their neck on the line if it all goes to $h!t) and presumably they will be able to tell you a) what they won't accept and b) what they would need you to do in addition in order to pass the cert. A bit of a google and you'll find a few local cert guys i would imagine. i had a mate do exactly the same thing with a v8 hilux conversion he's currently doing. If you do it this way at least it becomes a joint process to get you to the cert by the end.
I just got my RS certed as well and there were a bunch of annoying/small things the guy had me do but got there in the end.
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Finally got my RS back from the mechanic/dyno/cert etc. Will possibly do a build thread if i can ever commit myself to understanding how to post photos. Jumped on the "fACtoRy LoCAtiOn turbo" hype train and picked up 205kW atw on a top mount.
Anyway car is fully legal now and has a brand new steering rack and fresh shifter bushes to boot so feels (almost) new so now to actually drive it (within the various covid boundaries of course...).
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On 14/08/2021 at 7:50 PM, ginganinja said:
Seems like there isn't much option in NZ unless you got custom. Where as in the UK there are a few options but shipping kills it.
I picked up a new 3" inch rage system recently in NZ via my tuner so definitely still possible to find something local? It was in the same realms of an HKS exhaust in terms of dollars as well but i also just prefer the mild steel set up vs stainless etc.
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9 hours ago, lachlan said:
https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/wHTl09eYErOA
Not sure if that works . Lazy mans copy from fb
Car has 6s ecu like it should
Ecu had stored code for afm and 02 sensor .
Where is the done thing place to get a new 02 sensor from ? Even if it needs the plug swapped .
Ugly af blue leds for dash dials . Fml
Can anyone comment on how to tell between a vf 22 and 23 if the printing is gone off the comp housing ? Without removing it from the car . Probably not
Shifter has the usual 8 miles of left to right slop but actually feels nice in and out of every gear .
Ugly gay razo pedal covers that don't fit my shoes between them .
Day off tomorrow so ill go see what the wof man thinks of it
Anyone got a upgraded dump pipe they want to sell . This one appears stock
Have a siamese dump pipe (2.5") if you're interested? i'm in Auckland though.
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Hey all,
Probably a dumb question but sick of buying second hand ones that die. Any recommendations for a brand new starter motor in central auckland for a 5 speed (bc5)? Do you just rely on old Ripco/Super cheap ? or is there somewhere smarter for this type of gear.
Cheers
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17 minutes ago, Technikhaus said:
Yeah that'll work fine!
Note that the roll pin can be a PITA to remove from under the car, and that it's a dual-roll pin, so have to knock out the center one first, then the outer one.Yeah have seen a few people say that! Going to wait until i can get the rs up on a hoist tbh. getting sick of rolling around on the ground with no light haha
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On 7/01/2021 at 4:14 PM, Technikhaus said:
Just thought I'd update this with some info I've found, as I'm putting a newer setup in mine since the newer joint is easy to get (PN: 35047AC030).
Subaru changed the shift linkages around 1996/1997.
Running a couple of Chassis Codes in Amayama I found the images of the two.
You can swap between the two styles, but you need the entire shift assembly; the Joint, rod, and selector:Nice, i did assume that was the case ( i noticed from a trip to pick a part that the linkage did change slightly in the gc/gf chassis over the years too. I picked up a full v7 wrx shifter and linkage et (new bushes too) on the cheap so im going to run with that (and hope it fits....)
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Bonnet Latch
in Body
1 hour ago, ginganinja said:Don't you want your bonnet to stay locked when on the motorway though??
That is the end objective.
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Bonnet Latch
in Body
Possibly a really dumb question but having issues with my bonnet staying locked when on the motorway and my mechanic mentioned it might be a good idea to swap latches just as a check the current one isn't just worn out (30 years old now...). When bolting in the latch on the bumper should i be pushing the latch as far up or as far down as i can (if that makes sense haha).
Cheers
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I've got 850cc fiveoh side feeds in my RS and haven't had any issues (got them cheap asf). Its still on a base tune on the link but idle is still smooth (runs a bit rich though). Getting it on the dyno once back from panelbeaters but no complaints/reservations from my tuner at this stage at least. His commen was the new ECUs (G4+ etc) are sufficiently modern enough to deal with bigger side feeds if i wanted to stick with them
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3 hours ago, YogiTheBear said:
I haven't checked the heater hoses specifically but the heater is blowing hot air which would mean they are right?
Does it blow hot consistently? If you try bleeding again, just check that the heater hoses are getting hot as well during the process. i had that issue once in getting rid of an airlock
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Do your heater hoses warm up as the car comes up to temp?
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Rust in the floor of the RA so looks like my cert is gonna be a *tad* more expense then I had hoped🙃
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Ah, i mightve misread your initial post. I actually have a set of v5 rear hubs that fit the 2 pot rear caliper - i tried to fit them to my BC but they wouldnt fit the rear end so im guessing they are r180 ones. That might sort out your dogbone adapter issue if you want to move away from that.
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An option for the rears would be to try to get the r160 nz new wrx hubs that came with 2 pots. DBA then do a rear disc that suits the brembo rears without doing anything dodgy to the handbrake.
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Ah thats good to know. I think i'll just try to work with a later gc8 one or be/bh linkage rather than look for anything newer just incase.
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38 minutes ago, pl0x said:
I'm fairly sure all 5 sp's have the same "shifter shaft" with a vertical hole for the roll pins.
From there back I'm unsure what combo works with what.
I do know BP/BL legacy 6sp shifter/linkage combo do not work with GBA (all bolt up but you can't get into certain gears)
I also know I tried a gc8 shifter in a bf5 and it couldn't get into 2nd, 4th or reverse). Unsure what linkage was used.
Cheers, your comment around the bf5 is interesting. Would it depend on the actual gearbox in the car as well? like i haven't got the original RS box for sure.
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Didnt realise this either untiil i tried to install my short shift kit haha. The one in my RS has the bolt going through the linkage rather than the gear stick. its workable, but i'd rather move to newer parts, which are in essence set up in reverse.
Still havent figured out how to post images but this trademe link has the diagram for the older style: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/gear-boxes/listing-2587773565.htm?rsqid=d8a60ee179ef48a49794714639a80bea-004
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Hey guys,
Wanting to move to the newer style 5 speed linkage as i udnerstand there are 2 types for the gc8. Are the linkages compatable with all 5 speed gearboxes? My RS currently has the older style linkage but the bushings are shot hence decision to move to the newer style linkage and change out bushings while im at it.
Cheers
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Should be able to get away with just using your old intake manifold as your loom wont plug into the throttle body. Good opportunity to do ignitor delete and run later model coil packs too and then you'll know those will fit as well.
i get 'legally' why they make it an issue but also real stupid.
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Nice stock location turbo option
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
$4k price tag on those precision stock location turbos in NZ - i suppose cost isnt really addressed in that video either...
Very impressive result though.. speaking from someone who also has (foolishly) decided to stay stock location, albeit with much less ambitious goals.