blitzd808

its an RA haha so next to no sound deadening at all. . . but yeah valid point, i'll have to remove the floor mat too to get a bit of extra clearance as well. Will probably just have to dummy something up and see how it physically clears the space

Hey team, havent had much luck with the google-ing but just wondering if anyone knows the clearance underneath an a gc8 STI bucket seat (the red and black ones if it matters?). Looking at an underseat sub for my bc5 (which has the gc8 seats) and its looking pretty tight (maybe a touch over 60mm) but wondering if anyone knows or has had similar experiences running an underseat sub. Cheers!

not trying to be a cop out but any reason (besides cost i guess) you wouldnt just want to replace it with a Link? i did the same thing with my RS primarily because i got sick of all the CELs haha. Also slightly related, are you still running the old school coil packs? One thing that solved a number of 'gremlins' was going to the newer style coilpacks and deleting the old ignitor.

Definitely sort that exhaust leak mate - all the exhaust gas that should be spooling your turbo is exiting out that leak before it makes it to the turbo so that will likely be your main issue (if not all of it).

$4k price tag on those precision stock location turbos in NZ - i suppose cost isnt really addressed in that video either... Very impressive result though.. speaking from someone who also has (foolishly) decided to stay stock location, albeit with much less ambitious goals.

Because i had to deal with the cert recheck during level 3 up in Auckland, just ended up putting the factory stuff back in i get 'legally' why they make it an issue but also real stupid. I'd also get some heat shielding for the brake lines and clutch lines up above the turbo if you're factory location - they made a point of that too

Have you got anything in the way of other suspension upgrades? I had my RS certed last year and they wanted an engineers report on the whiteline bump steer kit. Also had a bunch of suspension parts which were "too close" to other things and s**t like that but i cant even remember the specifics of that. I didnt need a driveshaft hoop and my tune came out at about 205kW on an aftermarket turbo.

Hey (Auckland based) folks, Any recommendations about how best to restore a classic 90s vinyl dash? have a spare for my RS as the current one has holes and $h!7 from previous owner dash gauges... Have heard about vinyl dye from the likes of repco etc but concerned about colour match (so if anyone has advice on this route keen to hear) otherwise i'm more than happy to pay someone if need be. Hopefully pic attached works haha Cheers

Yeah for what its worth, in terms of the 'nit picky' comments: 1. change my boot seal 2. space out sway bar 3. driveshaft hoop (i'm only at 205kW) are a few of the things that come to mind haha

Probably not the answer you're looking for, but your best bet might be to just call up a certifier that you might want to use and talk specifically to them. They are the ones who will end up making the say on your car (i.e. their neck on the line if it all goes to $h!t) and presumably they will be able to tell you a) what they won't accept and b) what they would need you to do in addition in order to pass the cert. A bit of a google and you'll find a few local cert guys i would imagine. i had a mate do exactly the same thing with a v8 hilux conversion he's currently doing. If you do it this way at least it becomes a joint process to get you to the cert by the end. I just got my RS certed as well and there were a bunch of annoying/small things the guy had me do but got there in the end.

Finally got my RS back from the mechanic/dyno/cert etc. Will possibly do a build thread if i can ever commit myself to understanding how to post photos. Jumped on the "fACtoRy LoCAtiOn turbo" hype train and picked up 205kW atw on a top mount. Anyway car is fully legal now and has a brand new steering rack and fresh shifter bushes to boot so feels (almost) new so now to actually drive it (within the various covid boundaries of course...).

I picked up a new 3" inch rage system recently in NZ via my tuner so definitely still possible to find something local? It was in the same realms of an HKS exhaust in terms of dollars as well but i also just prefer the mild steel set up vs stainless etc.

Have a siamese dump pipe (2.5") if you're interested? i'm in Auckland though.

Hey all, Probably a dumb question but sick of buying second hand ones that die. Any recommendations for a brand new starter motor in central auckland for a 5 speed (bc5)? Do you just rely on old Ripco/Super cheap ? or is there somewhere smarter for this type of gear. Cheers

Yeah have seen a few people say that! Going to wait until i can get the rs up on a hoist tbh. getting sick of rolling around on the ground with no light haha

Nice, i did assume that was the case ( i noticed from a trip to pick a part that the linkage did change slightly in the gc/gf chassis over the years too. I picked up a full v7 wrx shifter and linkage et (new bushes too) on the cheap so im going to run with that (and hope it fits....)

That is the end objective.

Possibly a really dumb question but having issues with my bonnet staying locked when on the motorway and my mechanic mentioned it might be a good idea to swap latches just as a check the current one isn't just worn out (30 years old now...). When bolting in the latch on the bumper should i be pushing the latch as far up or as far down as i can (if that makes sense haha). Cheers

I've got 850cc fiveoh side feeds in my RS and haven't had any issues (got them cheap asf). Its still on a base tune on the link but idle is still smooth (runs a bit rich though). Getting it on the dyno once back from panelbeaters but no complaints/reservations from my tuner at this stage at least. His commen was the new ECUs (G4+ etc) are sufficiently modern enough to deal with bigger side feeds if i wanted to stick with them

Does it blow hot consistently? If you try bleeding again, just check that the heater hoses are getting hot as well during the process. i had that issue once in getting rid of an airlock

Do your heater hoses warm up as the car comes up to temp?

Rust in the floor of the RA so looks like my cert is gonna be a *tad* more expense then I had hoped?

Ah, i mightve misread your initial post. I actually have a set of v5 rear hubs that fit the 2 pot rear caliper - i tried to fit them to my BC but they wouldnt fit the rear end so im guessing they are r180 ones. That might sort out your dogbone adapter issue if you want to move away from that.

An option for the rears would be to try to get the r160 nz new wrx hubs that came with 2 pots. DBA then do a rear disc that suits the brembo rears without doing anything dodgy to the handbrake.

Ah thats good to know. I think i'll just try to work with a later gc8 one or be/bh linkage rather than look for anything newer just incase.