Technikhaus
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Posts posted by Technikhaus
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21 minutes ago, Serchn said:
Installed the new strut brace from moonlight racing that turned up this morning 😂
Nice! Now go find some twisties to drive!
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That's a fantastic result.
I bet it's way more fun to drive now. Quite crazy what a basic remap will do.
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Jeeze what a pain!
Awesome feeling to have it running though I bet. -
10 hours ago, Shibe said:
This is very true.
More or less concerned about any internal damage from overheating. Just me assuming the worst though!
Ah that's fair!
if it didn't go right into the hot and stay there, then I'd say you're fine.
haven't had any issues since? -
11 hours ago, Shibe said:
Potentially quite a bit of damage
but really. Leisurely drive, gave it a wee bit of berries because who doesn’t like being thrown into the seat a wee bit?
final corner from my destination and white smoke pissing out from the engine bay. Temp gauge 4/5 of the way up. Pull over and coolant all through the engine. No obvious sign on where it’s coming from though
big sigh 😓
Straight from the radiator cap maybe?
Never hurts to buy new ones, not too expensive, and rules them out. -
1 minute ago, Joker said:
I've just finished a 2 day print & reliase I need some Nuts & stuff to assemble
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624625
who would I go to for random small screws like this etc?
or : just get those etc?
I use Blacks Fasteners quite often, well priced and massive variety available. Not sure if there's one near you?
https://www.blacksfasteners.co.nz/-
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I typically just scrapped the remnants of one of those engines sorry!
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6 hours ago, Scoobydoo said:
Changed out my Legacy rear boot gas struts. They work just like new again
Best
Feeling
EVER!
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Go on... they look great with roof racks.
I've been tempted myself! -
19 minutes ago, blitzd808 said:
Nice, i did assume that was the case ( i noticed from a trip to pick a part that the linkage did change slightly in the gc/gf chassis over the years too. I picked up a full v7 wrx shifter and linkage et (new bushes too) on the cheap so im going to run with that (and hope it fits....)
Yeah that'll work fine!
Note that the roll pin can be a PITA to remove from under the car, and that it's a dual-roll pin, so have to knock out the center one first, then the outer one.-
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Yeah sadly with more modern cars it's just too much of a mess, often the transmission mounts themselves will be completely different.
Also 100% will need a cert, technically changing the brake pedal in any car requires a cert
As much as it sucks, the best/potentially only option is to sell it and upgrade...
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44 minutes ago, Subru said:
I need some maintenance parts and partsouq appear to be lacking (including other cars I needed stuff for). Are there any alternatives to partsouq around?
I often use Partsouq to find the parts, and buy through Amayama.com they tend to stock, or at least say they stock it more often.
Just put through an order yesterday of things that Partsouq said they didn't have, so will see when they get back to me...-
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Just thought I'd update this with some info I've found, as I'm putting a newer setup in mine since the newer joint is easy to get (PN: 35047AC030).
Subaru changed the shift linkages around 1996/1997.
Running a couple of Chassis Codes in Amayama I found the images of the two.
You can swap between the two styles, but you need the entire shift assembly; the Joint, rod, and selector:< 1996:
>= 1997:
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Yup from memory it can be removed with ECUflash and a tactrix cable.
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You make me want a 3D printer even more, quite a few things I've wanted to print in the past, and just can't ever get myself to pull the plug...
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On 26/12/2020 at 5:59 PM, Jack.c11 said:
Lastly these Siemens Deka 80lb/h 875cc. The seller said they fit a v8 sti and the injectors look shorter but hes the bit to extend the injector. comes with everything new. I'm most likely keen to buy this or the 2nd option. What are your thoughts?
Sorry about all the questions
Hey!
So that's actually me selling those
I can double check the length tomorrow, but according to NZEFI, they're 64mm from the middle of each o-ring, can measure over-all length tomorrow.They're classed as full-length injectors, I'm unsure if a v11 needs full or mid-length.
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12 hours ago, piopio said:
Anyone have experience swapping an EZ30 into one fo these cars?
Done quite often in the GC8s for rally, bolts right up, but you'll need to do a harness merge, or aftermarket ECU to run it.
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40 minutes ago, TNHSTI said:
The good news is NPD is expanding to the North island with its 100 Octane..
https://www.npd.co.nz/npd-announces-north-island-expansion-plans/
Ooh nice! That's good to hear!
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15 hours ago, BMCracer said:
Was in Auckland, in Western Australia now ( same car, took it with me to Oz ) .... but wow 100 at the pump would be great, and yes interesting to see the affect. Don't think I can get 100 over here, but surely someone in NZ can run 100 in their 3.0 for a bit and see if it makes a difference? I know I'm not the only one with this problem in a 3.0
Ahh, wasn't sure if you were previously there, and now here, or the other way haha.
Yeah NPD do 100 now at many stations in the south island, so would be quite interesting to see!Sadly we sold our 3.0 a few years back so can't test it sorry!
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13 minutes ago, BMCracer said:
So I finally got a new unit in the dash cubby to replace the Nexus 7, so I can keep an eye on things once again with the BtSsm. IAM still around 0.LOW.
I've been wondering for a long time if it's simply because they run 100 octane in Japan and the best we can get is 98? When I got the car I was running 95 in it, then when I changed to 98 it didn't make any difference to the IAM. The IAM has always been low, and any time I gave it a bit of reasonable accelerator, or had a semi-loaded trailer on the back, the IAM would instantly go down to 0.000, before recovering (!) back up to 0.2ish several days later.
Last week I bought a bottle of Octane booster ( NF race octane booster ), which has been independently tested to give up tp 6 Ron increase. I put in half the 375ml bottle which should equate to 3 Ron increase which would bring the 98 up to 101. Went down to the petrol station ( 7 Eleven which sells Mobil petrol ), tipped in half the bottle, and filled up with 98. The next morning once the new juice had got through to the engine, the IAM instantly went up, right up to 1.0, before settling at 0.625, where it stayed for the rest of the week until I put my trailer on the back, and then the IAM went down to 0.375, still better than pre-octane booster. The thing that really convinced me though, is that the several times I'l given it a bit of reasonable accelerator which previously would see the IAM instantly plummet to 0.000, it has not moved, stayed exactly where it was.
I filled up again last night, whiteout adding more octane booster, and we'll see what happens,. The octane booster at $45 a bottle is too expensive to use all the time, but I think I'll start using it when I know I'm going to be pulling my trailer or some other hard work for the car.
So that's my unscientific research to date, still more testing to do to see what I can get out of it.
I'm curious if you could get your hands on some NPD 100 if that would have the same affect, I'm assuming you're north island though?
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21 minutes ago, pl0x said:
Just do it 😉
But seriously, cheaper to do it right the first time than spend $1k on a Chinese turbo and tune then upgrade and tune again
Aww man, I'd love to do that setup!
Sadly it's just too much, as I'd still need to get new injectors, and that'd force me to go FMIC, so another cost there too, as I doubt that FMIC setup would fit.
It'd tempting to stay with the VF22 until I can do something along those lines, but the risk of it disintegrating on me is always on my mind, as it would be with a Chinese turbo too. -
55 minutes ago, Gripless said:
Aren’t those head, cams and valves going to need a twisted setup to work well?
The off boost performance can’t be great.
the Chinese stuff is pretty hot and miss but it does get better every year.To get the most out of them, yeah, but I'm not too worried about getting 400KW, everything else would need upgraded first. but maybe one day.
18 minutes ago, boon said:Power goal? Everything stock location pretty much sucks.
Don't really have a goal, just whatever I can afford to get 😂. The more the merrier, it's only a toy. My main restriction being the Turbo.
Eventually (in years to come) I'll go full twisted garret or holset etc, but for now just wanting something fun to get it on the road, and enjoy the lag that I'm sure it'll have with these cams. -
So with the car now running I'm looking at options for turbos, I'm running @snwmbl's old heads with 282 cams (https://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/54135-fs-v4-sti-heads-w-kelford-cams/)
Currently have VF22 which is far too small for these. I'd like to keep stock placement, and would rather stay under $1k for the turbo, second hand is fine. Although I did consider the chinese TD06's you can get for <1K, IE these.
The short block is a 2L CDB, bored out 1mm O/S, with forged rods/pistons. Currently running Pink top feeds, but considering getting some EV1 1000cc. Fuel pump is a DW200, running 100RON.
Any thoughts/opinions?
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EJ25 block with EJ22 heads and EJ18 cams, one of the best N/A frankenstein combos you can get
I was also told that the Ej20/22/25 ECUs can all cope with that combo too, as I was looking to do it to my old 2.2 Legacy for club sport stuff.
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Just one Reason Why I love Subarus
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
That's awesome.
Did you have muddies/atrs on the SF5?