ReubenH

Tisc tisc, one should not even consider touching anything turbo related under the bonnet till they have a gauge. If you think modyfing is going to become your game, invest in a good gauge so you know what your car is doing. Get to know what your car is doing, how it does it's thing, well before you mess with it!!!

Phone a friend. Seriously, get a CS member nearby who knows their subie inside and out to tech you the basics. Try PMing purpleandy, he lives in dargaville. Otherwise see if anyone in whangarei wants to lend a hand.

Man, it's gonna break the $2/L mark down here then... oh wait!

B4 = GT, GT = B4. Engine wise there is absolutely no difference between wagon and sedan. Differences arise however between manual and auto, and then there's auto VDC, which just chucks a f***ing great big spanner in the works. Then there's differences in model years, after a certain year (is it around 2001, 2002?) they changed the whole system yet again. Personally, i wouldn't replace the whole solenoid box, stamp that idea out of your head. Do as the others have said, clean the sucker out. If you have blowby that's pumping oil into the vac lines, you're just going to pump that into the new solenoid box and have the same issues all over again. Search for an locate the source of your issues, before blowing $$'s on replacing solenoid box's and stuff. I'm affraid i can't be much help in tracking down the source of the problem, there's only so far i go with TT before saying f*** it, and start blabering on about drastic and alternative options.. And did you ever get your ECU code anyway? That should be the first step, always.... Get the code, find out what your car is telling you. And forgive me for pointing out the obvious, but if you can't even check ECU codes yourself, what are you doing changing a solenoid box man! Madness i say!

Nope, that'll be essentially the same. If you want a different manifold, look into the V3/4 ones, to match the loom. They have a different turbo intake and intercooler and stuff. But, to be perfectly honest, if you have to ask these things, it's probably best you don't mess with it that much. It'd probably be easier to pick a version and run with it. Yes there's allot of stuff you can mix and match with, but the only way you can be sure it's going to work is to stick with your version. On that note, V1/2 WRX is more or less is the same as Gen 1 legacy, on the outside at least, so you can consider that 'sticking to a version'

Have you checked the oil? Coolant? When was the last oil change?

Generally now days i simply go "If it breaks, i'll fix it. Nothing is unfixable short of a bent chassis" Other times i'll simply say it's only as reliable as you make it, look after em and they last forever.. Or Pretty much what subieboy just said. That said, some people make the mistake of buying 2.5's though, and get the idea that the whole lineup is headgasket prone. I will give them the EJ25 argument, but that's where it stops.

I'd recomend a Version 3 or 4 WRX loom. They run wasted spark, so you can chuck these useless old unreliable coils, and run a coil pack on the manifold instead. The plugs and stuff are all the same, you'd just have to do some customising on the 20G (reversing the TPS wires, getting a new AFM to go with the wrx ECU etc.) I'm not an expert on the conversion though, there's a few on here who've done it, i've just sat back and watched. The benifit to the V3/4 loom. Is you can later plug and play with an STI ecu, yellow top injectors, and the bigger orange airflow meter, to get some free ponies out of the engine.

A million times this. Plus it wouldn't suit the car, and the current colours suits the car brilliantly. Only option for black wheels would be some with a polished lip.

Sell it to me! $50. It's obviouslly doomed!

Yes, all TT's got slapped with the tiny turbo stick, that's what happens when you put 2 on a 2L. And you're especially tempting fate with an EJ20R too, given their reputation. What boost does the car make at the moment?

Do you have an auto btw? Cause you can barely feel the TT kick in those things at all, in the first place.

They are metal FYI, and pretty solid. They are also bolted to the roof by the pillars, so should be pretty sound.

Bloody good call! I dont know all that much about this buuut I've been told that alot of suby engine failure is caused by the injectors not keeping up with the amount of boost being expected of them, here's a thought - would the computer tell the injectors to up the amount of fuel for that primary turbo boost of 18psi or will you eventually end up leaning it out and then needing a new turbo soon after? Although I am rather keen to give this a try for a short wee boost or two ;D The injectors inject the right ammount of fuel for a given ammount of air that goes through the AFM, so yes, they keep up. The problem lies with when the injectors reach 100% duty cycle, and are pumping as much fuel as they can, after that is when you lean out. All BG's that aren't manual GTB's have grey injectors that will have difficulty with 18psi. However, all manual GTB's, and all BE/BH's have yellows, which can keep up with the demand. Also note, 18psi on primary ≠ 18psi on both. The primary boost may show the same on your boost gauge, but it's flowing far less air than when both are working, so yes, the injecotors can EASILY keep up with it if they are yellows (grey's probably could too) But have any of you guy's seen one of these turbo's on their own!? They are tiny! On their own, they'd be pretty much at home on a 1L at 16psi, making them do 18psi on a 2L is just pure torture! Man, i have big ol VF39 to do my 18psi... Ok, sure, it's only at low revs that the primary is boosting that much on it's own, but still, it's allot to ask of your primary.

lol! The manuals have a hook like hanger bracket bolted to the box. There's a little bracket that pokes out of the heasheilds on the downpipes that hooks onto the hanger. ta-dah! I don't bother with any now, but i got a single turbo DP that weighs like 2KG now, it's fricken light. The TT monsters must weigh about 2 tonnes, so yeah, might want one, if even just to hold it in place as you polt it up.

EJ20R = Worth saving. Simply put. And lorens right, 4K is too steep for a head gasket job, you're getting taken for a ride. You can rebuild an engine from the ground up for that much. Ask around, where abouts are yah? If you don't want to, i'll take the car for $500 As for the resale of the car, i'd say $1000 broken, $4000 fixed. So if you can get it done for 2K, you'll def be better off getting it fixed. If you can't beat your 4K quote, flick it. Depreciations a prick, 5 years ago these cars were worth 15K.

Out of that list, again, the T1-R's. Personally though, i'd spend the extra coin and get some Bridgestone RE050's. Much better than the T1-R Gravel bens glowing reference above should attest to that, and i think the 050's have all the good of the 001, but with superior wet grip than the 001. The 050 wet grip is brilliant I got the 050's, not the 050A's. Standard 050's are symetrical, so half way though their life you can reverse them (take them off the wheel, and flip the tyre, so inside becomes out) and get even wear accross the tyre for a longer life, unlike the 001, which is asym only, and believe me, the 001 insides love to get chewed out! (keep on top of your wheel alignments unlike i did!!!)

Me and drunkenmonkey have done many, it ain't hard, but def better as a 2 person job. Doing it on your own sucks. Matt got the compressors for $30 at repco (mind you, that was mates rates)

K, now that's run it's course, i'm going to delete my spam posts... Matty, sorry if i offended you with that remark, it wasn't exactly appropriate. Ditchhobo. The whine from the power steering could possibly be from the power steering pump itself, it's not uncommon for them to die, i've replaced mine in past. If it turns out to be the steering rack itself, consider actually just installing an STi steering rack. I've also done this mod, it will reduce the ammount of turns lock to lock, and stiffens up the feel quite a bit, it's a upgrade well worth doing, and i'm very very glad i did mine. I used a V3 STi rack which set me back a very moderate $100. As for the struts, if they are bilsteins, it's very very likely they are poked, or on their way out. Again, another mint upgrade to do is to chuck some V7 or V8 STi struts in, but they aren't immune from death themselves as i found out on the weekend, and you need to get some camber bolts and spacer plates to make them fit properly. If you drive a gen 3, you can't do this upgrade because of the multilink rear suspension, so perhaps look into getting them rebuilt, or replacing them with some from a wrecker. If you want to know what wrecker to go to; talk to "strong for subaru" in Onehunga (they ship nation wide). Tell them you've been sent by the good blokes at clubsub and you'll get a nice discount there, don't be affraid to name drop

Hehe, you only make that mistake once Though i've done the opposite, and overtightened some once, stripping the thread out of the nut. They were aftermarket though, real soft. Makes me want a torque wrench so i can get a feel for all the different torques required over the car.

I agree with that, ever since SI drive, electronic throttles, 2.5 single scroll setups, i've been liking the brand less and less. I hope they realise a chunk of the market does not want these silly aids, and want to get back to driving. And no, i'm not implying i'm a part of that market, but i'm sure there's many that share my opinion, and they'll show it if subaru and toyota do the right thing with this coupe.

Because the money needed for some gear is MUCH better spent on the car. I have no need or desire to learn, driving is my sport and pastime

Looks like the water pump is now accessory belt powered too. That is a good thing. Timing chain should also reduce the 100,000K service cost quite a bit And is that AVCS/AVLS/Dunno-what-but-something-intersting on all 4 cams? I love my EJ's though, i do not look forward to it getting harder to buy parts for them over the next few decades, and i fully intend on keeping mine that long.

Sadly true. Regardless, what i have seen to date actually says the subaru version will be a AWD turbo boxer, and the toyota will be RWD and NA boxer.

1.25bar within the primary's limits? I doubt that. I'm just going to say this. If you mess with these TT systems, without knowing how they work, they are likely to bite back. Pick up some technical info on how they work before fucking with them. http://www.veloce.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/technical%201.htm