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snowflake009

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Posts posted by snowflake009

  1. 40 minutes ago, evowrx said:

     

    If you want second hand give Matt at Innovate or Ajay at Subirex Automotive or partsouq will have them if you can wait 7 days.

    Thanks. Will give them a call Monday

    40 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Just chuck your applied model into partsouq.com and it'll give you the the part number.

    Could do a few logs with the laptop attached to yours sometime if you want to check things are actually working as expected.

    If we could bro that would be great! I'm booked in for Wednesday so before then if your free. Got hold of a scope meter so can check your alternator curve if your still having issues with it

  2. So replaced the sensors and I think it may have solved my problem. Idles and drives a lot smoother now. Guess I'll find out on Wednesday when it goes in for a retune. Unfortunately when removing the passengers side can sensor I broke the variable cam solenoid. A cable tie has got it sorted temporarily but will have to replace it. Does anyone know where I can find a part number for this? Not having much luck with this thing lately :/

  3. 11 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Have much of a struggle getting the axle's off?

    Ripped both my front axles out this arvo to get new boots. PF Auto guy reckoned I was pretty lucky they weren't completely rusted and seized to the hubs.

    I've had the shaft out a couple of times. Fort time for the boot and 2nd to replace whole shaft as the inner joint was knocking away. First time out it was stuck in there good and tight but a 3 jaw puller and a rattle gun made light work of it. Copper antiseize is good stuff! Put it over everything that requires it

    • Like 1
  4. So had a bit of a poke around today and found both of the cam position sensors are leaking oil through the wiring connector. one was drenched and the other only squirted some out when i probed the wires. tested with a meter and the readings arnt the same as i thourght they should be. im not getting a cel even if i unplug them with the car running. was told they can work when cold and fail when they warm up. A faulty cam sensor would explain the curvey dino chart as it would fluctuate the timing without the ecu knowing it. will be replacing those and the crank sensor just for good measure as its probably not far behind. pulled out the spark plugs aswell and they are mint. hopefully the sensor is the problem fingers crossed

    • Like 1
  5. On 6/12/2017 at 8:40 AM, Marky said:

    Does it actually need bigger squirters at this stage? 

     

    Have you done a pressure test on the whole intake? 

     

    Have you checked fuel pressure once it comes on boost (fuel pump or reg being sad?)

     

     

    I spoke to them today and fueling is good, pressure flow etc. bigger squirters are needed and the decaps were a cheaper option. they have done them plenty of times before with no problems. yeah the whole intake system has been pressure tested ok. I was having a bit of problems with boost leaks but better clamps and hairspray done the trick. 

     

     

  6. 4 minutes ago, evowrx said:

    Not to play the dickhead but I would wonder if its had an n/a block put in it or the timings off. 

    how would i tell if its a n/a block or not? without stripping the motor of course. checking the timing marks is on my to do list.

  7. 5 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Went and did another couple of logs with my MAF back in and it cut out at the same point so it's definately an issue with my car rather than the MAF. I know my battery is stuffed and have heard of that causing RomRaider to play up at WOT so probably just a result of that. 

    The readings from yours were basically identical to mine up till it cut at ~3900rpm each time.

    Thats good to know. just out of curiosity whats a set of bigger side fed injectors worth and where to get them from?

  8. Big thanks to @Andy_Mac for helping me out. After a few problems with data logging turns out the maf is fine. will give it a thorough clean for good measure. At least that marks one thing off the list so now for the spark plugs, compression and leak down test. 

  9. 29 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Yea can give it a go in mine. Don't really think it's the issue though. AFR's are sweet so can't see it being the issue. 

    You know when it starts detonating? Above a certain RPM?

    Cool thanks. Will give you a txt. Just want to eliminate it as a problem as I don't have a way of testing it. They said anything over 150kw. Not sure about revs etc

     

    14 minutes ago, evowrx said:

    Post up pics of the engine bay and dyno graph if you can/want to. Could help but more just to satisfy my curiousity.

    Haha yeah I will do shortly

  10. 28 minutes ago, BC5RA said:

    I'd go grab a genuine air filter and some CRC afm cleaner and give it a spray.

    Will give it a clean tho can't go factory air filter with intercooler piping in the way. 

     

    9 minutes ago, evowrx said:

    Wouldnt have thought it would be maf. If it was lean causing det that would be obvious with the wideband vs tune. Worth trying another in there but your fuelling tables would be way off compared to what one would expect for power/airflow if that were the issue.

    Tho if there was a delay in the reading it could lean out enough to det and not pick up on the wideband. After det it retards the timing so would be hard to pick up. Just an idea anyway. 

  11. Yeah has 98 from bp tauriko. Decaps crossed my mind too but i trust they done a good job. They done them there before the tune. 

    20 minutes ago, evowrx said:

    Running 98? Any history on an engine rebuild or timing change? How new were the plugs?

    Egbp test pre and post turbo?

    Engine hasn't been rebuilt as far as I'm aware and timing belt with all the bits n pieces was done about 30000kms ago. Back pressure test was before turbo. Plugs are about a year old ngk ir6b's. Will check them out and do a compression and leakdown test in the next week just to be sure but last time it all checked out ok. Is there any way to check the afm without a scan tool as I was told a faulty one could affect timing as well as the obvious afr

  12. I had my bp  legacy in for a tune the other day at Dtech and they can't put timing in as it detonated like a b**ch. Mods is upgraded turbo. Fmic. Intake. Fuel pump. Decap injectors and full exhaust inc headers and up pipe. They done a back pressure test and that checked out ok. My boost gauge is tapped off the fpr reg vac line so will change that and Chuck in some colder plugs. Has anyone had this problem or could point me in the right direction as where to start looking? 

  13. 2 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Tony had recommended I get SSI ones for that turbo back last year, assume you'll be going there for a tune once its in?

    ok thats good to know as that was my original plan. there is alot of banter going on between stainless vs mild steel and ive been recommended by a few people to go the mild route (v8 guys). ssi is easy too as nzkw does them.

    Yeah I will be going there for the tune. Will still be a few months away as im still getting parts together.

  14. On 09/12/2016 at 10:37 AM, TonyG said:

     

     

    Well. I don't know how the F*** I missed this when I had the tyres changed. Unless the bearing completely gave way after they were changed, giving it more play. It did get very loud today... Putting second-hand hub on it right now until I can get a new part for it.

     

    I am an idiot. :) Enjoy the funny video.

    Haha wow that could have turned out real bad. glad you got it sorted 😅

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