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swamp

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Posts posted by swamp

  1. Installed water pump pipe 

    Tidied up threads on main coolant pipe bolts just ran em thru a m6x1.0 die 

    Cleaned up top of block/heads with old toothbrush and brake kleen

    Refitted oil dipstick tube 

    Tried to see if the belt I had laying round would replace my a/c belt that's badly frayed - nope its a p/s belt 

    Started refitting a/c compressor 

  2. On 24/05/2020 at 4:43 PM, 94 Leone said:

    yesterday fixed all the rust around the boot of the Leone, power steering sussed. Now i just need to get the windscreen out and organise getting another one in and installed. 

    How big is the crack in it? Having tried many methods fixing cracks I've found what may be the holy grail method, use the three suction cup based resin tool with vaseline so u can slide it up and down on the crack but from beneath use a flexi lighter inside to heat windscreen as someone else applies pressure from other side. The heat expands and it'll accept the resin better. Might save you some money? 

     

    Today I ripped off the last remaining hose off my water pump. It was seized despite being a relatively new hose, the pipe was really rusty. I may have damaged it with vice grips as it has slight cuts in it. Won't take any chances will try to get a new one in ASAP. If anyone has any tips or some good tools to use on Hoses please do share. 

     

    Then unbolted and moved out of the way the AC compressor so I can get the water pipe out. And accidentally pulled out the dipstick tube. Then called it a night. I'm replacing the water pump pipe. 

     

    Would love some good 14/10mm ratcheting spanners, maybe even a slim/shallow 1/4" koken ratchet, would make the job much easier. 

  3. All valid points made in this thread. I'd add that the 2k Cup could be a contributor to ending the life of many 4age/b18/3sge perhaps... And even the less tidy examples will be going up in value because even those with less money want to own a wrx, they've always been cheaper than other turbo jdm cars. Plus Dan Carter and Scribe owned one. Haha 

     

    Heres some screenshots I've taken, they're from December 2019.

     

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    • Like 2
  4. Just wondering if you guys think the Subies that are 20 years + are starting to go up in value slightly. 

     

    I mainly follow imprezas on Trade Me, I've seen that quite a few wrx (high km say over 250km) and rougher/high km sti in the less desirable wagon shape listed for around 5-7k. There's been a few rougher ones that still get listed for about 2-3, but I would say that pre covid prices had gone up. They're probably cheaper on fb though. 

     

    Cleaner, lower km hxs-20 for example are listed for around 3k on Trade Me. 

     

    Can't really speak for legacy gt models, but have seen svx hold their value quite well. If anyone cares enough I've screenshotted a few auctions lol.

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. Damn that sits so far forward.

     

    I find the newer maloo/fpv/hsv etc that have stickers stating how many HP they make over the top. Like it was cool when they had 351, Hemi 6, 440, decals etc but I just find "585hp" or "351hp" pure w**k factor. Partly because I don't really like v8s, because my car makes less power, and it's just egotistical. Wouldn't catch a Japanese car with stated hp figures on the sides. 

     

    Also sticker packs from eBay, one guy had yokohama/Bridgestone and many other tyre brands all on his late model crx haha 

     

    Edit: cos I don't have a pic of said v8, I'll upload this instead. Really not that bad if he's just trolling. Which I think he is hahaIWUd9um.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. Not my car but there's a bugeye at work that was stolen. Its been there for a while and today I noticed it was wrx badged and registered as a wrx. Checked tags and looks like it is a gd9 (2l awd n/a) so engine is in fact original. 

     

    Must suck to insure an impreza and have to pay wrx/sti prices. Unless its a cash grab and imprezas are all one rate. 

     

    Also concluded that people say turbochargers are complex systems. Well I find electric operated sunroofs quite fiddly and with so much bits to microadjust, and parts being numerous and expensive to replace, I'd say sunroofs > turbos in crappiness. 

  7. I'll definitely refer to this thread, the soldering iron smoke device sounds good 👍 if it's the gasket you can get by with rtv, I made my pipe work by taking it to supercheap and fitting together all sorts of rad hose, slipped over smaller hose, hose clamped together. That's because I needed it to work ASAP and a new replacement is like 200 nzd (ej20g wrx v1 mind you) though I should do a proper fix ASAP! 

  8. 47 minutes ago, Technikhaus said:

    From the canister to the Fuel pressure regulator?
    probably not best. 
    MAP and FPR should usually each go directly to the intake, as they're very picky and relied upon.
    So yeah may be best to move the FPR to the manifold and let the EGR share another vacuum source.

    Following this diagram: http://jp-carparts.com/subaru/part_detail.php?maker=subaru&car_baseid=F13031&type=G10&cartype=115&fig_id=061&part_id=H403482&part_code=807403482

     

    H403482 it seems is the bugger I'm missing. I checked underneath the rubber hose and sure enough there's a thin pipe sneakily hiding there.

     

    I don't remember ever having a hose there, so just stuck the fpr to the Fuel rail... 

     

    But I'll change that. I'll get a thin hose in lieu of H403482 and tee the boost gauge with the map/egr hose. 

     

    Weird if I've never had a H403482 hose, must've meant I've been driving with a vacuum leak.. And potentially map/egr not working.

    • Like 1
  9. Big thread dredge incoming

     

    I've just taken off and put my IM back on again, and I've just realised the brown egr valve hose goes to my fuel rail drivers side rather than intake manifold. and I have a boost gauge installed which takes the IM port of egr-intake mani hose. 

     

    This is bad isn't it? 

  10. Almost done stripping my Prelude, I've just got a fender and the two bumpers to go. I'm doing this partly because isolation, but also because I want to get started on the rust repairs. Everything else has been stripped and disassembled and I've tested every electrical circuit (except windows) and started a shopping list. 

     

    I may start a build thread in the other projects section... 

    • Like 1
  11. I've heard amazing things about carpro perl. A tiny bottle of what I'm guessing is advanced trim restorer, a little goes along way. And of course seen the results. 

     

    I've also seen videos of detailers using a heat gun. Supposedly this method can make your plastic brittle over time but it brings all the oils/pigments to the outer layer. 

     

    If you paint it don't use vht quick kote or motor tech. That **** sucks *** and will just crack after a day in the sun even with its corresponding clear coat over it. Duplicolor has been the best off the shelf paint I've used and lyndar 2k clear from supercheap is the best though Trademe has 2k clear for a better price... 

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