YoungOne

Followed the internet's advise on intercooler piping popping out of silicon joints and used $6 worth of hair spray... ...very skeptical about this

no they won't rub, 205/45R17 or 215/45R17 tires should be fine

My understanding was that ball bearing turbos can handle flutter/dose ok while journal bearings can't really? Made sense to me as under thrust loading the journal bearings could contact metal to metal while a ball bearing would still function against those loads. Compressor Surge is just a bad time on any turbo

At some point it would almost make sense if you were modifying 90% of the standard type R parts

No they don't drone much in my experience

Subjective but yes imo they sounds great on wrx's and are near perfect for a daily driven car; don't drone, nice note, awesome quality, STi part (if that's your thing). They're definitely not the loudest exhaust out there though if that's what you're after.

GR Series onwards have multi-link rear suspension which is better than the GD's trailing arm set up. Not night and day in my experience but haven't driven a GRB very hard, does mean the boot's interior's a bit better shape though...

Interesting post by Steve Murch on his facebook page regarding header diameter and length: "Turbo’s require velocity to function the more the better thus comes the two stroke effect, we increase header size or length we can move the power band further up a lot of the time for minimal gain but a great loss of power band, anyone who has rode a 125 MX bike knows what in talking about.So my approach is to keep gas speed up as much as possible to the turbine wheel which can be the speed of sound and more but just as important the low pressure wave that returns into the chamber, we use this to help pull the next charge into the combustion chamber before the next power stroke this when done right can make a four stroke turbo engine over 100% efficient. There’s a few formulas out there of use eg: header pipe length as P = ((850 * ED)/rpm)-3 where ED + 180 degrees plus the number of degrees the exhaust valve opens before BDC and rpm is the engine speed.I use my own version of this more suited to turbo setups but one thing that’s harder to calculate is header area or dia, you can have long small and short fat to achieve the same thing to which often as we all know headers are made more for fitment not necessarily ideal performance then we have stepped headers for a staged power band as in two different pipes Dia in one runner. Best example to understand what effects things can have is comparing two engines of similar displacement, 4G63 and EJ20. Due to engine lay out the 4G63 is inline versus a flat 4 EJ20, using a GT35R .86 A/R turbine we would on the average generic headers see full boost around say 4500 on the 4G and closer to 5500 or more on a EJ the main reason is area/length. The EJ would have close to 3x the header length of a 4G and having less exhaust port flow compared to the 4G makes for a doomed setup, here’s the killer EJ owners now buy larger than stock dia headers along with larger dia up pipe equals slower exhaust gas flow for what maybe a marginal gain up top and very poor spread of a power. Using a basic formula of area it’s easy to see where it all goes wrong eg: primary headers on the 4G ID of 38mm and 450mm long gives a area of 1134mm x 450 = 510417mm. Applying the same to the EJ but longer headers 38mm x 1200 = 1360800mm that’s 2.6x bigger than the 4G, can you see the issue?Now let’s change things a little lets go to so called big runner headers 41mm ID on the sub but retain the length we now get 1584510mm in area or 1.16x larger making them 3.1x bigger than the 4G headers, we only changed the ID by 3mm. This doesn’t include the effect of the up pipe in area.Bottom line you now have to work the engine so much harder to make boost generate heat etc now for some when using launch control, NOS or flat shift it’s not a issue right? But was the gain worth the loss of a better power band with marginal gain in peak torque ? In fact at times you loss peak torque, if you search the net you’ll find most 4 strokes reach peak torque between 5-6000rpm very few will hang on further. My idea for any given turbo car is maximize the power band but more so the torque after all that’s what makes your car get to point B faster thus turn the hair dryer on faster, or as I like to call it a really powerful turbo car that acts like a NA….not a bad thing. There is much more to this as in head flow, cam specs, intake design ,comp ratio,fuel, turbo sensitivity ( how much load it can take before serge ) on that note when dealing with little motors as a 2ltr you could see 20psi at 2000 rpm but things can go wrong. You end up with too lower rpm and load to high causing detonation plus other tuning issues and driving the turbo to the point of hurting it and the motor,2ltr is still a small motor thus turning a large turbo doesn’t make it user friendly there’s no substitute for displacement.Another point to note is the collector used on turbo headers, large collectors kill exhaust flow as in losing velocity I like to terminate the merged primaries right at the face of the turbo flange that keeps exhaust flow up right at the turbine, much better than killing exhaust flow in large runner headers to be collected in the turbine housing then try and accelerate them. Equal length? Yea na plus or minus 25mm per runner works fine but pulse tuning based on firing order on a split pulse housing is a must as per how the gate is mounted all affect the threshold point. The sweet spot for peak flow in a turbine housing is around the point the AR is calculated which depending on turbo frame size around 20-40mm in from the turbine housing mounting face not at the end of the headers, if you have a dead turbo have a play with a air gun blowing into the turbine ports you’ll see what in meaning. Rounding this pointless post take note of the picture from early 80’s F1 turbo headers I’ve attached, small runners somewhat short with a large turbine housing 1500cc 1400hp 70psi plus in qualifying mode back pressure often less then 1/1. Hope some of this makes sense or tiny bit of help downside for me is customers come to me with a already built motor which makes life hard to get the ideal result without re engineering their engine, I have at times done setups with a cam split of [email protected] intake and [email protected] exhaust works awesome but more to why that is another time." Original Link: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=10154608738582680&id=255636937679

Apologies didn't mean to knock you. Each to his own, wouldn't take the risk on my own car.

The factory airbox's flow extremely well and the AFM's right behind them are extremely sensitive to change. Aftermarket intakes are the number 1 cause of (older) EJ failures. 5 step plan of how to kill your engine with a pod filter: Step 1: Fit pod filter Step 2a: Pod filter causes engine to ping Step 2b: Engine runs the wrong ignition control Step 3: Knock sensor can't pull enough ignition out Step 4a: Further pinging occurs that the ECU now cannot correct Step 4b (Optional): Potential Piston damage usually occurs here due to pre-ignition Step 5: Long term big end bearing failure You're better off spending your money elsewhere.

At a guess I would say that you'll run into the same idle issues as a turbo but you aren't as at risk to knock issues or any real problems. Basically yes it'll be fine. Though I would get the tailpipe first if you are wanting a bit of a rally car vibe in you life

Assuming you've replaced the spark plugs themselves here? Get rid of the Pod filter and bov as soon as possible. Subaru's (particularly older ones) are extremely sensitive when it comes to intakes and bovs. The factory airbox on a GC/GF series will flow enough for 400hp+ so I would pick one of them up as soon as possible (they're cheap enough). Likewise with the Bov. Again the factory diverter valve has been proven to hold upwards of 20psi and is absolutely rock solid. Atmospheric or Recirc I would still put a factory bov on it, google atmospheric bovs on subarus and run for the hills if you have one on a factory ecu. Both factory parts are extremely cheap and easy to pick up from a wreakers. Refer here for more info: Hope that helps and welcome

My father bought a GF8 WRX NZ new in 2000, only thing that has gone wrong with it in 17 years is the plastic radiator header tank thing needed replacing. Its been up ski roads, driven hard, towed stuff, its still on the original clutch 250,000K's later! I've no doubt if you looked after a WRX correctly you could easily reach 1,000,000K's without replacing any major components, interior will fall apart before the engine.

If you track or modify a Subaru you're almost certainly going to want to change the oil every 3 months (with expensive oil that most young people just can't afford), properly warm and cool it down, run 98 fuel etc. They're not as foolproof or as low maintenance as other cars especially anything N/A. I do find it weird though that RB's have a reputation as being bulletproof as they seem ridiculously unreliable to me, every time I go to a track there's 6 tow trucks loading various Nissan's to be carted away

The Blitzen Bumpers have in previous years been notoriously hard to source and expensive when found, might be a few of them going off the road now so maybe more around. One place to start would be to hit up subaru speed in auckland: https://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/ Wouldn't be surprised at all if they quote $500+ Dansco in Blenheim currently has one in red for $450 on trademe Hope that helps

car has been owned by my father since new (MY00) and has done this from the moment it came off the lot so its not a wear thing, engine is completely standard, its a cable throttle which I think would rule out the ECU?? Maybe it is the flywheel, hadn't even considered it

OK so I'm not even sure what you call this so don't know what to google. I'm planning to do a bit of a restoration of my fathers GF8 WRX and the car has an issue where the engine continues to rev for a split second after you come off the accelerator which would be great to fix. I've also encountered this on a mates GC8 WRX RA (non Sti) however it does not appear to happen on the STI models I've owned. Does anyone known what causes this or at the very least what its called so I can google it? Thanks

Not sure if they're still made for subarus but imported a set of A1RM pads off QFM from Australia a few years back that were stupidly good for the price, didn't need warming up and had no dust. My theory is when the guys in Commodores and Falcons rave about a brake pad you know it must be good...