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Loren

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Posts posted by Loren

  1. 1 hour ago, SpeedySub said:

    What's the process you are you using?

    There is a step by step instructions online that mentions about having the heater on to help clear air pockets. It can take a while to get to done fully

     

    Is that a real thing though, because water flows through the heater core permanently... the heater/aircon controls just dictate where the air is sent...

    i.e through the heater core or through the aircon core.

    • Like 1
  2. I don't think water is going to cause overheating in a situation where the car is standing still and the radiator is being bled. 

    How much water have you put into the system? Is the thermostat opening? Do both the top and bottom radiator hoses

    get hot? Does the whole radiator get hot or are there cool spots?

  3. 9 hours ago, Gripless said:

    Its a dual a layer coating and took 3 weeks to get done so if you want it you do have no car for a while.

    the cost was about $800 for headers, turbo and Downpipe so that is the downsides.

     

     

     

    That's not a bad price for all that... I was looking at buying some headers from RCM and the option adding a coating doubled the price of the headers... which put me off.

    Where were yours done?

  4. 7 minutes ago, Dairusire said:

    This is the exact reason why I've left my factory heat shielding on my twinscroll STi headers. It does more than well enough and if it has to come off to fix the flexi's in the headers I will try take em off in a way that I can weld them back on. 

     

    Another thing to mention is also ceramic coating. Heard good things about it. @Username says he's used it on his stuff (turbo, manifold and up-pipe) and swore by it last time I saw him. 

     

    Absolutely no reason to take factory heat shields off. 

     

    Also heard that ceramic coating is good... what put me off was the cost and having to get the whole lot done again if it gets chipped.

     

  5. I have used it everywhere... headers, up pipe, turbo and down pipe.

     

    It's quite flexible and you just cut out sections and wrap them around the pipes and hold them in place with steel cable ties.

    Get yourself a proper cable tie tool so you can get them nice and tight.

     

    Make templates for the sections out of card board... cut out the shapes in the heat shield material... over sized slightly as

    you have to fold the edges over. It's quite a lot of work... but it will last forever (or a very long time anyway)... is way more

    effective than wrap as a heat insulator, and no more fibre glass on your hands, up your arms, in your face etc etc.

     

     

    The turbo shield just sits over the top and is bolted to the bell housing with a couple of bolts... i.e. one of the bell housing

    bolts and one other random bolt on the head.

     

    Also, I didn't do everything in one go as it is a bit of work and quite expensive. Allow a solid day or two for the headers...

    everything else is much easier.

    • Like 1
  6. 7 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

     

    Good stuff. How accurate do you reckon that GPS speedo is? Mine was all over the place at Manfeild but not sure if it's just a bit of a gimmick or whether the steel roof was impacting it, compared to yours which looks to be just below the windscreen?

     

    I think the speedo is probably pretty accurate... g-force might be accurate but it's never in sync and quite erratic, so hard to corroborate the values.

    • Like 1
  7. According to google:

     

    • Replace engine oil, filter and drain plug washer
    • Inspect and adjust all drive belts to factory specifications
    • Inspect and ensure cooling fan is operating within factory specifications
    • Replace transmission fluid with Subaru High Performance Fluid
    • Check to ensure air conditioning and heating systems are operating within factory specifications
    • Rotate tires, inspect tread wear and check and adjust tire pressure as needed
    • Perform brake system inspection; pads and/or drums, lines, hoses and fluid
    • Inspect suspension system and steering components to ensure factory specifications
    • Service battery, clean terminals, install anti-corrosion pads and check battery condition
    • Inspect wiper blades and linkage operation
    • Lubricate all door, trunk and hood latches and hinges if needed
    • Inspect exhaust system and heat shields
    • Replace front and rear differential fluid
    • Inspect radiator and cooling system
    • Adjust emergency brake to within factory specifications if needed
    • Replace air filter element
    • Inspect steering operation, tie rod ends and steering rack guides per factory specifications
    • Inspect all engine and transmission mounts
    • Inspect and adjust all fluid levels as needed
    • Check all interior and exterior lighting operation
    • Replace brake fluid
    • Install premium fuel additive (dealer recommended)
    • Factory trained technician to conduct road test
    • Like 1
  8.  

    Undo the 8 bolts holding the manifold onto the heads. 

    Remove the hose at the bottom of the expansion tank... it will leak coolant everywhere... so have a bung ready.

    Undo the two bolts from the top of the expansion tank, and the one bolt underneath it... and pull aside.

    Undo the intake pipe from the turbo... and what ever is attached to the other side of the intake pipe.

    Unplug the two large loom plugs in front of the windscreen washer body. 

    Unplug any sensors wired into the manifold loom, but not attached to the manifold.

    Unplug spark leads and move them out of the way.

    Undo fuel hoses and breather pipe at the fuel filter side of the engine bay and the breather from behind the right hand headlight.

    Remove the intercooler obviously and the throttle cable.

    There might be some cable ties under the manifold that need to be undone or cut?

     

    Don't let anything at all fall into the intake ports.

     

    That's all I can think of. 

    • Like 1
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