Loren
-
Posts
1,324 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
83
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by Loren
-
-
I'm finding it had to believe that info... it says the WRX (apart from the WRX wagon) has as much power as the STi, just slightly less torque.
- 1
-
1 hour ago, SpeedySub said:
What's the process you are you using?
There is a step by step instructions online that mentions about having the heater on to help clear air pockets. It can take a while to get to done fully
Is that a real thing though, because water flows through the heater core permanently... the heater/aircon controls just dictate where the air is sent...
i.e through the heater core or through the aircon core.
- 1
-
7 minutes ago, boon said:
Yep, I saw one of your runs, didn't get it on camera though. Figured it was you. Car sounded very racecar, plenty of good pops and crackles.
The V8 Skyline sounded rather glorious too.
A very sweet sound indeed... a real race car motor in that thing.
-
14 minutes ago, boon said:
Nice! I was watching from the harbour... even caught a few fish. The sound echoing off the hills was pretty excellent.
Sweet... if you heard a Subaru, it was definitely me... being the only Subaru at the event. Still road legal so not as loud as most cars there.
-
Are you sure it is using more fuel than usual or could it be due to the exchange rate at the fuel pump operating at a lower level?
- 3
-
I don't think water is going to cause overheating in a situation where the car is standing still and the radiator is being bled.
How much water have you put into the system? Is the thermostat opening? Do both the top and bottom radiator hoses
get hot? Does the whole radiator get hot or are there cool spots?
-
How do you know it's overheating exactly... how high does the factory gauge go?
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Shelly Bay Sprint yesterday. Only managed 10th place unfortunately. I haven't entered this event for 10 years and it's very technical with an
unforgiving bite if you make a mistake. And I had my daughter on board and her mother would have killed me if I landed in the rocks below.
That's all my excuses. Plus only 1 second separating 10th and 5th
- 15
-
Take some photos of all the water lines you have disconnected and re-connected.
-
9 hours ago, Gripless said:
Its a dual a layer coating and took 3 weeks to get done so if you want it you do have no car for a while.
the cost was about $800 for headers, turbo and Downpipe so that is the downsides.
That's not a bad price for all that... I was looking at buying some headers from RCM and the option adding a coating doubled the price of the headers... which put me off.
Where were yours done?
-
18 minutes ago, Gripless said:
can touch it after full hard drive it is amazing
That is bonkers.
@ginganinja I will take some pics.
-
As long as you have the right length socket extensions, and a universal joint handy... it's pretty easy. Just quite a bit of stuff to remove from the engine bay to get proper access.
- 1
-
7 minutes ago, Dairusire said:
This is the exact reason why I've left my factory heat shielding on my twinscroll STi headers. It does more than well enough and if it has to come off to fix the flexi's in the headers I will try take em off in a way that I can weld them back on.
Another thing to mention is also ceramic coating. Heard good things about it. @Username says he's used it on his stuff (turbo, manifold and up-pipe) and swore by it last time I saw him.
Absolutely no reason to take factory heat shields off.
Also heard that ceramic coating is good... what put me off was the cost and having to get the whole lot done again if it gets chipped.
-
I have used it everywhere... headers, up pipe, turbo and down pipe.
It's quite flexible and you just cut out sections and wrap them around the pipes and hold them in place with steel cable ties.
Get yourself a proper cable tie tool so you can get them nice and tight.
Make templates for the sections out of card board... cut out the shapes in the heat shield material... over sized slightly as
you have to fold the edges over. It's quite a lot of work... but it will last forever (or a very long time anyway)... is way more
effective than wrap as a heat insulator, and no more fibre glass on your hands, up your arms, in your face etc etc.
The turbo shield just sits over the top and is bolted to the bell housing with a couple of bolts... i.e. one of the bell housing
bolts and one other random bolt on the head.
Also, I didn't do everything in one go as it is a bit of work and quite expensive. Allow a solid day or two for the headers...
everything else is much easier.
- 1
-
7 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
Good stuff. How accurate do you reckon that GPS speedo is? Mine was all over the place at Manfeild but not sure if it's just a bit of a gimmick or whether the steel roof was impacting it, compared to yours which looks to be just below the windscreen?
I think the speedo is probably pretty accurate... g-force might be accurate but it's never in sync and quite erratic, so hard to corroborate the values.
- 1
-
Autox on Sunday. 2nd overall. Need to work out how to beat 200kg open wheelers!
- 3
-
Don't do it. Make some proper shields with this: https://www.pro-wholesale.co.nz/heat-shielding-exhaust-shielding/
- 4
-
$200 for 4 litres of good fully synthetic oil... motul gear 300 or similar... only $120 if you go for motul motylgear 75w90... which will be more than good enough.
- 1
-
According to google:
- Replace engine oil, filter and drain plug washer
- Inspect and adjust all drive belts to factory specifications
- Inspect and ensure cooling fan is operating within factory specifications
- Replace transmission fluid with Subaru High Performance Fluid
- Check to ensure air conditioning and heating systems are operating within factory specifications
- Rotate tires, inspect tread wear and check and adjust tire pressure as needed
- Perform brake system inspection; pads and/or drums, lines, hoses and fluid
- Inspect suspension system and steering components to ensure factory specifications
- Service battery, clean terminals, install anti-corrosion pads and check battery condition
- Inspect wiper blades and linkage operation
- Lubricate all door, trunk and hood latches and hinges if needed
- Inspect exhaust system and heat shields
- Replace front and rear differential fluid
- Inspect radiator and cooling system
- Adjust emergency brake to within factory specifications if needed
- Replace air filter element
- Inspect steering operation, tie rod ends and steering rack guides per factory specifications
- Inspect all engine and transmission mounts
- Inspect and adjust all fluid levels as needed
- Check all interior and exterior lighting operation
- Replace brake fluid
- Install premium fuel additive (dealer recommended)
- Factory trained technician to conduct road test
- 1
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Hillclimb in Hawkes Bay on Saturday.
- 10
-
Just get it running right and stop worrying about the sound.
- 5
-
Undo the 8 bolts holding the manifold onto the heads.
Remove the hose at the bottom of the expansion tank... it will leak coolant everywhere... so have a bung ready.
Undo the two bolts from the top of the expansion tank, and the one bolt underneath it... and pull aside.
Undo the intake pipe from the turbo... and what ever is attached to the other side of the intake pipe.
Unplug the two large loom plugs in front of the windscreen washer body.
Unplug any sensors wired into the manifold loom, but not attached to the manifold.
Unplug spark leads and move them out of the way.
Undo fuel hoses and breather pipe at the fuel filter side of the engine bay and the breather from behind the right hand headlight.
Remove the intercooler obviously and the throttle cable.
There might be some cable ties under the manifold that need to be undone or cut?
Don't let anything at all fall into the intake ports.
That's all I can think of.
- 1
-
yeah, obviously, but it will help. It can calculate the gear from looking at the engine speed vs ground speed... whether the car is actually
in gear or not will be helpful to know.
-
Why not just share the info here?
-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 173 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online
Part number needed
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted · Edited by Loren
Can anyone find out or know the part number for a brake master cylinder for a GC8078772?
jp-carparts, partsouq and Subaru NZ being unhelpful.
Actually, might have found it. 26401FA040. Can anyone verify?