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Shibe

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Posts posted by Shibe

  1. My understanding of my car is that the only 'mods' are a middle res delete to a muffler and equal length headers. I have no idea if the BOV is factory. What a shame I hardly know my car that well hahah. But either way, it's fairly untouched. 

    1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Alternatively get an e-tune for typically under $500. No real risk for a stock car. Not a fan of going that way with big power builds

     

    Can you please explain to me what e-tune is?

    34 minutes ago, Pappu1 said:

    if you were in auckland then i could have helped out with this as well..

    but yea man the reflash is a good way to customize the tune to your set of mods so its safe and makes the best power it can safely

     

    The crap part about living down here is the lack of places to have cars modified and tuned. Most people I know have had to travel to chch or dunedin to see some kind of specialist. 

  2. 6 minutes ago, Inked said:

    Hey mate, 

     

    A ECU is a great way to unlock a bit more potential from the car especially if you have bolt on mods like an exhaust. I found it a great way to know that my car was running how it should be. 

     

    Prices range from 800 - 1400 depending on the shop and then touch up tunes once you have extra parts can be done easily. 

     

    Aw S*** I did not expect it to be that expensive 

  3. Can anybody tell me their experience with an ECU Reflash + Tune on a Turbo Subaru, or even just an ECU reflash?

    I've read and been told that a simple ECU reflash gives the car a few more horsies and makes it run more efficiently since Subaru factory tunes are quite meh..

    Is this true? I drive an 07 Impreza S-GT and thought this could be a nice option for the car, the only issue is I have no idea where to get it done and how much it costs roughly (Invercargill)

     

    Sorry if i'm not using the right term by 'Reflash', just trying to fill my head with knowledge :D

  4. 1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Newer one's certainly should have front mount’s, no point feeding it all the way back just to keep a top mount when the turbo isn’t even there anymore. Plus with the BRZ reverse manifold in existence it’s not like it’s a fitment issue for A/C

     

    Its all just to keep the iconic Subaru bonnet scoop xD

    • Like 2
  5. 2 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Castrol Edge 5w-40 

    It’s normally cheaper than the 30 too which is somewhat of a plus

     

    Castrol is usually what I have my eye on. So the 40 really won't be too much different than the 30? Just that my cars mileage is getting up there so its probably a better idea to run 40?

     

    Damn I never knew oil could get so technical :o

  6. 2 minutes ago, TNHSTI said:

    Also agree the oem filters are $9.00NZD +14.42 for Freight which makes even buying 1 filter pretty cheap! if you bought 10x youd be looking around $4.50 per filter! pretty awesome price for an OEM Filter

     

    https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=15208AA100

     

    I may as well get a couple when the time comes around. I couldn't find the washer ¬¬

    Anything else worth while grabbing there? Oil pan plug?

  7. 52 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

    KM’s are getting up there but no reason to need anything thicker yet. You get much tapping from the heads?

    Dunno at what point it exactly becomes an issue but thicker oils can have detrimental effects on the AVCS operation.

    Castrol Edge 5w30 would be my choice. 

    I always wait for a decent sale a super cheap and buy 2 so i’ve always got one ready to go

     

    No tapping in the heads. Maybe I’ll just go via the k’s and get a 5w40 synthetic oil. I would imagine that the later oil changes are the ones with 5w40 or 10w40 but some of the invoices weren’t dated/have faded. 

  8. 2007 Impreza S-GT, 2.0 Turbo

    Bit of confusion with what oil viscosity is the best for my car. Those tablets they have at supercheap that take your make and model were next to no help. Unfortunately I don’t have the owners manual to refer to but today I shuffled through some service history papers with oil changes and they all had used different viscosity oil??

    one change used 5w30, one used 5w40, and another used 10w30. How much difference will each of these oils have? Because I was thinking synthetic 5w30 would’ve been the choice for a turbo Subaru but god knows. I prefer to do changes myself as opposed to having someone do it for me. If it helps - my car has just ticked into 170 thousand k’s. Any help or recommendation?

  9. 5 hours ago, boon said:

    One thing to remember is that if you've just driven it a reasonable distance, wonky tyre pressures can be a sign of a S*** alignment, i.e one tyre is scrubbing a lot and getting much warmer than the others == higher pressure.

     

    If you have one of the little gauges, take it for a decent drive then race around it and check all 4 corners.

     

    Didn't actually think about this.. car is badly in need of a balance + alignment

  10. 9 hours ago, Gripless said:

    What's the factory pressure written inside the drivers door sill by the lock catch?

    Think factory there is a few psi difference front to rear due to the weight balance to keep the DCCD happy.

    Somewhere between that factory pressure and the max psi rating on the tyre works.

     

    Think im some thing like 38 front 36 rear on 45 profiles but it's the value on the door sill plus 2psi over winter.

    you can run more on pure nitrogen as it won't expand as much with heat like the 21% oxygen content in the air. Which is only a benefit in traffic really where the tyres don't heat up.

     

    Low pressure like 35 psi on 45 profile tyres won't be pretty at 100kph and a big pot hole.

     

    Good point there. I didn't even think to check that. It's not sitting on factory wheels but this could probably still apply since I think the factory S-GT wheels are 17's.

  11. My 07 S-GT is sitting on 215/45R17's all around. 

     

    One thing I remembered to do yesterday was check my tyre pressure and adjust accordingly. When I check some one was sitting on 40psi, another sitting at 32 psi, one at 38 and basically it was all over the show. I put each tyre to 35psi to try an even balance and one thing I've noticed very quickly is that my fuel economy has dropped about a half kilometer per litre. 

     

    I'm really lost with a general rule of thumb when it comes to tyre pressures since everyone has about a billion different answers. I'm thinking put each tyre at 38psi all round and just keep experimenting til i find a balance I like?

     

    Any help is appreciated

     

  12. On 4/11/2018 at 2:42 PM, Inked said:

    As YoungOne mentioned oil/filter and keep an eye on other areas. I would personally not let the Cambelt run right to the KM just to ensure it isn't getting weak. Maybe replace that in the next 10k and you should be good :D personal preference though!

     

    A very good rule to go by! I'll have to set the money aside to get it done haha

  13. 29 minutes ago, YoungOne said:

    You can generally get away with just doing the oil and filter and a good visual check over, I wouldn't touch the AFM sensor, if its all working correctly leave it alone, reset the ECU if you like but again if its running fine don't bother. While you're doing the filter check for any oil around the rocker cover gaskets and head gaskets, these do fail over time. Check the intake filter and coolant level and that's about all I do. 

     

    You will have to do the cambelt at some stage in the future if it hasn't been done, generally they are due every 100,000k's

     

     

    Excellent, thanks man.

    Yeah Cambelt was done at 98000 k's so will be due in the next 15-20 thousand. 

    • Like 1
  14. Sorry if this has already been a thread before,

     

    but i recently got picked up an 07' Impreza S-GT, 2.0 Turbo 5 Speed. Excellent car and I'm having a blast driving it. 

     

    Anyway, the car has just under 170000 k's and I believe it's time for me to do a service - oil, filter, etc.

    What are some other things you guys generally do when servicing your turbo Subaru's? I was having a gander at servicing videos and the general service seemed to include cleaning the AFM, resetting the ECU, and top engine cleaning? I feel like some of it is a bit unnecessary but and pointers are greatly appreciated. I feel and oil and filter change would be sufficient enough? 

     

    • Like 1
  15. 2 hours ago, Gripless said:

    Sensor or intake leak post MAF sensor. Maybe alternator supply issue at low rpm.

     

    does it rev freely and smoothly when in neutral? Is it a load based issue, more people in the car makes it worse.

     

    Like @THUNDA said if you don't have a obd2 dongle or cable to log data take it to a shop. Or you'll blindly be replacing parts.

     

    Idle in neutral isn’t the best. It tends to fluctuate the revs a bit and shake when it drops 

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