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boon

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Posts posted by boon

  1. On 9/02/2020 at 6:56 PM, Niran said:

    Different with euros though, high ks are generally ok if well maintained.

     

    Tell that to my Nissan with 4xx000 on it... or @DRFVDR's old Troopy which had like 600000 or something mad like that.

     

    High k's are fine on everything if well maintained, I've seen a V7 STI with over 300k on the original motor.

     

    EDIT: Also lol, euros aren't generally OK at any KMs. My friend has owned 2x S4's and both have shat the bed in incredibly expensive ways at under 100000, and he is fastidious about looking after them.

    • Like 1
  2. That'll be why both the front and back bumpers are wonky and the window line on the driver's side has a bloody step in it :/ Seriously, the front bumper, grill, and headlights look like someone threw them at the car and went "good enough!"

     

    The steering wheel is flogged out too. And there's some random wiring dangling from by the driver's right knee. 

     

    This is from a 30 second eyeball of a trademe auction.

     

    People seem to want absolute drug money these days for relatively s****y cars. Hang on to your money and wait for the right car to come along, or you'll pay over the odds for a probably lemon.

  3. On 11/01/2020 at 12:49 PM, Andy_Mac said:

    The old girl decided to be a little bitch and no longer start this morning.

    Made it all the way down to wanganui last night just to make matters worse...

     

    No clicking or anything from the starter but everything else powers perfectly so guessing it'll be the clutch switch or starter relay.

     

    My STI did this one day. Turned out the driver's floor mat had bunched up under the clutch and wouldn't allow it to go in far enough to activate the switch.

     

    What was wrong with yours in the end?

  4. 19 hours ago, swamp said:

    What sorts of things would make a link g4+ or haltech worth it? 20 or so other things needing upgrade and no significant increase after spending 2.5k? 

     

    All very good information! Surprised that no one really recommends an electronic boost controller, but suppose that's redundant as sti upgrade is there. 

     

    If you were going to run any equipment that Subaru didn't originally put on a car somewhat similar to yours. Basically, if you deviated sufficiently far from the factory specification that you needed to tune it.

     

    But you're not going to get reliability at anything beyond the power levels some or another factory Subaru was capable of, so there's not much point going beyond factory spec (even if that's the "ultimate" factory spec of VF22/23/30/34 with 440cc injectors).

     

    There's so much you would need to change to go reliably beyond about 300 crank horsepower (starting with the block) that, unless you're going to change all of those things, you may as well just run a factory ECU.

    • Like 4
  5. Devil's advocate? Putting in a G4+ and getting it tuned won't see any change from about $2500. Lot of money to throw at a car that literally won't make it any faster than a boost tap would.

    Get a VF23/24 (or even a VF30) and a STI ECU and set of yellows as above. About the best you're going to get out of it; you're so limited by about 20 different things that make a G4+ not worth the investment unless you have big big plans down the road.

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 2
  6. Yeah to be fair if you're just flashing a "this is for a stock motor" kinda tune you should be more or less OK, there's so much margin built into these motors that you're likely to still be well within the safe zone - and it sounds like you're going to do it fairly conservatively.

     

    I mean realistically, look how many of these things are getting around with a boost tap and a poddy getting caned on 91 octane completely un-tuned.

    • Like 3
  7. Just now, keeweechris said:

    Haha, ok, will think about that.

     

    "Ok here's your new tune, flash that and then go do some logging"

    "Right, went for a drive, here's the log file"

    "Oh yes, very nice, you can see just here where it started to knock furiously and smashed the bottom end bearing to little pieces"

    "Cool, thanks"

    • Like 1
    • Haha 2
  8. Uhhh 225s on a 9.5" rim, why are we are looking at anything other than your incorrect tyre fitment? The contact patch is herp derping about because your sidewalls are probably at about 45 degrees. Get tyres that actually fit on your rim. Your current combination isn't even legal (https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V3_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf)

     

    Jesus, going loop-de-loop on handling mods while running a frankly stupid tyre setup, what's the point?

    • Like 3
    • Haha 3
  9. You can bet your right testicle that the very first thing a dodgy tuner does when an engine goes full grenade on them is removes the previous change they made in the ECU.

     

    "Nah I just ran it up to 3000rpm and it went boom, wasn't even on boost at the time"

     

    How are you going to prove otherwise?

    • Like 1
  10. 99% of dyno operators have a frankly bewildering disclaimer that basically says they could pull the head off your motor and squeeze out a giant f***ing turd inside your block and it wouldn't be their fault. For a fairly expensive "premium" service they somehow get away with murder, imagine if you took your car to a panelbeater and their disclaimer was like "we may completely ruin your paint and dent all of your panels". Although on the other hand, there's probably too much risk of shed-built piles of s*** exploding and then being blamed on the tuner.

    • Like 3
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