boon
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Posts posted by boon
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Yep, did it ages ago, can't say if it makes much difference unless you also have phenolic spaces because your manifold just acts as a giant heatsink for the heads.
Can't remember exactly what was required, I think I just used a cheap plastic irrigation joiner from Bunnings?
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6 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
What would be an acceptable loss for a not so restrictive set up though?
Surely just about any setup would perform a lot better with the axle back section removed, maybe not so bad on a relatively straight through single exit V7 setup but the overly convoluted later setups must surely add noticeable restriction even when pushed up a size.
Not sure really. I went to an obnoxiously loud 3" (not a straight pipe mind you, it has a muffler and resonator) and it made more power again, but we changed a couple of other things. Would it have made >230kw with the old exhaust and those things changed? Not sure. What I'm getting at is that a smaller (or at least, constricted design) exhaust is definitely a significant restriction at those power levels, whereas a freeflowing 3" didn't seem to be.
4 hours ago, Subru said:Another question,
The exhaust from the donor car has the o2 sensor in the 'post cat' area of the downpipe (if there was a cat) but on my car the o2 sensor is at the very top of the downpipe. Will it matter if I move the o2 sensor from top of downpipe to underneath the car without screwing with the tune? I doubt it matters but wanna be sure.
Neither exhaust has a cat.
Nope, no difference. Make sure the loom is long enough. On a V7 the O2 sensor should be at the bottom, if it's at the top you probably have a GC/GF downpipe shoehorned in.
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18 hours ago, Loren said:
So you couldn't make more than 230kw... and you swapped the rear muffler only, and then you were able to make more than 230kw?
Yes, exactly that, literally without removing the car from the dyno. Ran the car up and it made like... 236 or something, tuner was like "I suspect your exhaust", unbolted it at the mid-pipe and did a pull and it made 250-something.
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Smoke coming from the turbo itself, wut?
Sealant on the compressor plate isn't going to make it smoke.
1.5mm is on the larger side for a ball bearing turbo, I believe the standard ones are 1mm? But also unlikely to actually be an issue.
Did you re-use the copper washers on the oil and coolant feed banjos, and if so, did you re-anneal them?
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I'm gonna be a pest and say it's probably too restrictive for 250wkw, from memory those Genomes aren't big mufflers, like.... 2.25" or something. I had a 2.5" Zerosports on mine and it became a limitation over about 230wkw.
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Tried a whole lot of them, the no-name stuff is a waste of time, goes to s*** inside 12 months, flakes to bits and falls off.
The best of what I've tried is the Lava Rock stuff from Pro Wholesale, goes on nice, doesn't make you itch quite as much as all the straight fibreglass ones, and seems to have lasted at least somewhat well.
But the true best is OEM heatshields.
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18 hours ago, ginganinja said:
I understand that but given at 220-230kw and 23psi the VF22 is basically a hairdryer i was thinking something like a GCG GTX2867R at less boost will make a bit more power or similar but be more efficient doing it and keep things a bit colder as @Gripless was referring to. I just don't think there is much point in going too big but I could be wrong.
Your engine doesn't really care if the turbo is a hairdryer. As long as it's not knocking, power is power is power. The air gets really really hot as soon as the spark plug goes off anyway.
I had 231kw from a VF34 for years, no problems, and that was with a topmount, on a stock V7 longblock.
I don't know if I fully understand your goals... you only want less than 250wkw, and you want it to be... deliberately laggy... so it doesn't feel like a big lazy V8? Sounds like a TD06 is the turbo for you, ancient pieces of s*** that they are.
There doesn't seem to be much point in going to a probably quite expensive Garrett GTX-based turbo when you could achieve everything you want to with a Kinugawa TD06.
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Going to an aftermarket turbo for about 10kw more than a tapped-out VF22 will manage... seems counter intuitive. My 2c anyway.
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It will have a stored code. Find out how to extract it. Might be some combination of plugs under the ECU and then it will either flash some random code at you, or display it in the trip counter or something.
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Keep an eye on the seams in the door sills. That's where my old man's one started to go brown, and it never went on the sand, just boat ramps.
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For those who are reluctant to Google, here's the complete write-up:
https://www.perrin.com/blog/post/efr6758-stock-sti-turbo-killer
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4 hours ago, Loren said:
On the same engine? Sounds a bit like Unicorn poo to me.
Correct.
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Borgwarner 6758 has the flow for 300wkw and spools about the same as a big VF. 6258 will spool faster but obviously less flow. They will fit in the stock location but obviously not on the stock flange so a custom uppipe/downpipe is required.
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Funky's was surely twisted wasn't it? Cos for a while he was running a good old GT3071R.
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See if you can find a Zerosports World League. I had one on my V7 a while back and it had a really nice sound to it, not loud at all, but much nicer than stock.
Has a hard power limit of about 235wkw though as it's only 2.5" and quite restrictive.
Also it's been said before but you are probably getting heavily overcapitalised into a 200000km WRX, but at the same time heaps of people have done similar and had fun so whatever
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A 4000rpm clutch drop isn't exactly a launch, did it even chirp the tyres?
There's at least a few people out there that just use the rev limiter as launch control. Not saying it's good for the car but it doesn't just instantly break it.
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Borgwarners are magical. Throw an 8474 at it and find out what your block can do.
I don't know s***e about the G series, sorry.
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Gonna sound ruthless but like.... learn to drive better? I literally never had this issue with my 5 speed GF8.
Also:
-Worried about damaging car
-Gets it tuned to make more power
-Asks about launching it
Wut.png
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Exhaust leaks sound like a tractor, not a whooshing. Maybe get it smoke tested?
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I'm pretty sure the AFM thing is like... an urban myth or something. So many people out there running oiled K&Ns for years with no issues.
If it bothers you, take the AFM out every service and spray it with AFM cleaner or something.
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18 minutes ago, ginganinja said:
The top left corner of the sheet says flywheel torque, hp and kw. So maybe its not at wheels.
Even so thats still very good number from a TD04. I have a friend in aussie with v7 wrx with a vf48 on it and sti intercooler and only made 176kw at wheels.
So it does, good spotting. Quick maths says this one probably approx. 177wkw. As you say, still a good number from a TD04.
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whp? From a TD04? What was the TCF on the dyno, that's a crazy number.
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Partsouq, but you'll need the part number.
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5 hours ago, Subru said:
Bit of a thread hijack.
I have a vf30 in my v7 atm. Are vf22 much better and worth swapping? My goal is to make a car that feels quick. I love the way these turbos kick as they make it feel quicker than it is. Will have aem fuel pump, 3 port, full exhaust and tune.
Nah, they both top out at ~230kw, BB centre doesn't even make the VF22 spool better. The only worthwhile VF upgrade is the VF34 which spools about 400rpm earlier than the VF30 and is disgustingly responsive. Pretty rare though.
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Throttle Body Coolant Bypass Mod
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Have you already got spacers? After a decent drive mine would be too hot to comfortably touch.