wildturkey

what warning box bro?

ah ok if I have no joy with the more simpler fixes I'll look at the wiring but it hasn't been rewired in any way since I've had it

nah it was happening way before the brake prob but yeah I'll check out the brake lights for sure.

cheers I'll check it out

remember to put hose clips on all the tee joints lol

1989 RS leggy (BC5)..........whenever I turn on the headlights or spotlights I get this "stop lamp" sign lighting up in the top left hand side of the speedo dash. after 10 seconds or so it goes away. It started doing it at around the same time as one of my spotties started playing up so I replaced the bulbs in them and they are all sweet now.....but this stop lamp light still comes on when i turn either the spotties or the headlights on. Does any1 know what this is?

read my thread there may be something in there to help you. Look under Legacy thread..."front end shuddering"

V1 if u wana know where smokey is......cruzn up behind u.....comin towards u.....to the left or right of u hiding on side streets........u do wana know where he is right? lol. V1 and Beltronics STI Driver are still top of the range detectors around the world. STI Driver is pretty much invisible to police radar detector detectors (in countries and states where radar detectors are banned)......so if you think the law in NZ is gona change to ban radar detectors.....STI driver way to go. The new digital cams in vans run on a weak K band signal that most detectors can't pick up until ur practically on top of the van. They are having some problems right now with their accuracy. You mite have seen the write up in the Dom a while ago lol. Seems they have been clocking some vehicles at twice their actual speed and issuing tickets lol. If u enable K band ur gona pik up all sorts of crap like sliding doors, garage doors etc... I did it on my V1 and the damn thing was just going off all the time around welly so I turned K band off. The main frontline weapon for smokeys in NZ is still KA band in cruzers and hand held laser guns........so V1 or Bel still a great choice and even some of the other brands are fine as well.

ok I'm happy to say my front end shuddering is a thing of the past. The caliper pistons were stuffed so ended up replacing the whole caliper. Bled it tonite and all good. So thanks for all the advice

cheers thanks for that

who would u recommend (in welly) to recon the caliper? Cheaper to replace or recon? cheers Any good workshop or brake specialist Where abouts are you in Wellywood I'm in the hutt

ok sweet as.............so bottom line is..........with the hub right off, I could grab the bit where the studz are with one hand....wiggle it at any clock position you like and there was considerable play......i tried doing the same thing with the hub I was replacing it with and it had absolutely no play in it at all........ solid as. So my old one was rooted anyway

ahh ok then mine was pretty gone then............understandable I guess after being on there 20 years. But the thing is...........that movement was undetectable with the wheel jacked up and still on the car and trying to do the 12 and 6 oclock test. It was absolutely rock solid. It was only after taking the hub right off that the extent of the play could be seen and felt

nope not quite............when i had the hub off i grabbed the bit where the studz are and could get movement along the same line as the axle (in and out?)........and also grabbing the hub with one hand I had quite a bit of movement at the 12 and 6 oclock.............and also 9 and 3 oclock positions

sweet cheers for that..........just out of interest is there supposed to be any play in the hub at all?.....mine had in and out play.....as well as side to side

who would u recommend (in welly) to recon the caliper? Cheaper to replace or recon? cheers

cheers.......how much are the recon kits?..........an easy job?

cheers.......i dont really agree with the "never listen to a wrecker" line......I've had good advice from this one in the past and have no reason to doubt him yet. There also happened to be a mechanic there who agreed that unless the axle nut is loosened you will not get an accurate sense of play in the hub......but hey sweet as. I took the hub right off anyway and could feel the movement by grabbing it and rocking it side to side with one hand. We compared it to one he had there which was absolutely stuffed....and it had about the same range of movement...........now that range of movement was well outside acceptable tolerances but was undetectable with the wheel nut done up......

ok a bit of an update......first of all.......I learnt something I thought I'd share just in case ur thinking u might have a wheel bearing prob. After jacking the car up and doing the old 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock test for a mashed wheel bearing......(and then the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) I couldn't notice any movement at all...none. What I was told by a wrecker mate though .....is that if your wheel nut is still done up tight the test won't work (except where the wheel bearing is EXTREMELY farkd). So i took the wheel off and loosened the wheel nut and that's when I could feel movement in the bearing......quite a bit of movement. So wheel bearings being quite $$$.........i just replaced the whole hub with one that had a good bearing in it.......and slapped in a new bottom arm ball joint while I was at it........here's the kicker though.........I still have the vibration problem!! lol so after a short run we noticed that the passenger side brake disc was extremely hot compared to the other one so we're thinking one of the pots in the caliper (or both of them) isn't retracting.......so my next mish is to replace the caliper........or recondition it I checked the engine mounts they are all good I also checked the lower arm bushes they are all good

Oscar.........I just had a shitload of factory hoses fail on me all about the same time........I had a leak in the same place.......gave me grief for ages b4 i found it. Was just a perished hose so replaced it........and then others started failing so replaced those. Its frakn irritating when u have coolant leaks and can't track em down.........I've become a bit of a masta at it! lol good luck

ok cheers will have a closer look

cheers.........i jacked it up and looked at engine mounts but what exactly am I looking for?

I scored new ball joint unit off TM $40 incl postage

yep I did that BC.........minimal play in the 9 and 3 oclock..........maybe 1mm and that play seemed to be where the steering arm goes into the steering rack? (somewhere in the middle of the car).....the play wasn't at the hub anyway...........and no play in the 12 and 6 oclock

Hey cheers for the advice just going thru process of elimination........it's not discs I got them skimmed..........it's not wheel alignment I had it it checked. So next I will check all the bushes........and I will be replacing that ball joint as well. Yes.....I feel it when I'm braking but I also feel it sometimes when I'm not braking............for example when I've done a few hard corners up in the hills and then come down on to the flat. Sometimes it feels like a thump thump thump as the wheel is going round.....almost as if the wheel had a bubble in it......it doesn't I checked them. The problem is intermittent.......it's not there all the time.........i could be cruizing along at 100 ks and it might start......or I mite brake and it will set it off. Yes I can feel it in the steering as well when it happens How do I check wheel bearings?