Bugeye01WRX
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Posts posted by Bugeye01WRX
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Hey guys been a while since I posted
Been taking on a lot of your guys advice and not worrying about little things and these days I'm 99% better with worrying way less and having fun with car.
I live in a pretty flat town, like really flat, so I barely ever hill start.
However, today I had to stop on one of the steepest hills in town at around 40 degrees and i was like, oh f*** as I hate riding the clutch.
Instead though, I end up stalling the car aggressively on the hill and then on 2nd attempt, I end up "launching" the car rather than gently riding the clutch to get moving.
There was this bad smell which Im concerned about as I don't think it was the clutch since I never rode the clutch so am unsure of what it could be.
Then, after "launching" the car up, the revs dropped to like 800rpm and I basically lugged the car for a good 3 or 4 seconds getting up the hill before the revs got up.
Now, every time I take off in first the car is stuttering and shuddering like it wants to stall even if I am revving the car to like 1,500rpm as soon as I start letting the clutch out it shudders so badly now.
A few questions:
1. Is it better to ride the clutch up a hill or better to launch/slingshot it and then lug it briefly?
2. Anyone have any idea what would be causing the car to stutter like that
3. I have been told lugging is mashing throttle in 4th or 5th gear at like 2k rpm. I assume that small "lugging" in such a low gear while building no boost is not an issue.
Thanks everyone
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8 hours ago, Gripless said:
If it only under vacuum
Brake booster lines.
PCV or breather lines to heads?
Thanks Ill check those out!
10 hours ago, Loren said:Do you have any glass bottles in the car?
Haha sadly no
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Hey guys
Just today I noticed my WRX making a high pitched constant sound I have never heard before.
It kinda sounds like when someone is whislting/blowing into a glass bottle is probably the best way to describe it.
It seems to only be there when I am maintaining speed generally in 4th or 5th gear for example it was most prominent at 110km/h in 5th gear when I was neither accelerating or decelerating.
I don't notice or hear it when boosting and still hitting 15.5 psi nicely it seems to be occuring between 0.4 and 0.2 vaccum pressure when I am just maintaining speed.
I have just had ALL fluids done to the vehicle about 4 weeks ago so they have all been bled, drained, refilled etc.
Cambelt was done at 169,000km and car sits at 210,000km currently.
So I'm not sure where else to begin as this noise is really irritating when I am trying to enjoy my drive and listen to my car and I hear that.
Any suggestions?
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Hey guys
Just wanting to know if Open ended lug nuts are as bad as people say.
I currently have some basic 38mm silver spline lug nuts atm but I am wanting some that stick out because I like the look so looking for 45 - 50mm lug nuts.
Problem is, I wanted to go closed end but there are almost 0 options. I have seen circuit performance ones but after reading reviews I wont go near those. Project Kics Heptagon look really good but at $150 and then having to paint them red (I want them red to match car) it just doesn't feel worth it.
It seems that all the extended ones are open ended for some reason so I just wondering if I bite the bullet and get open ended ones.
Just wondering if the issues with rust, seizing of the studs are a real concern or are they not as bad as people make it out to be?
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49 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
I guess you could try anyway. The only issue I can think of is without a load correction resistor some led bulbs can stay slightly lit when off but that's with 240v AC stuff, I'm not sure what would happen with 12v DC.
Is it the brightness or colour you want to change them for?
Colour :). I have done purple for everything else and this is the last thing to do.
Ok ill give it a go without the resistor!
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16 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
Jaycar will have something that fits that profile.
When I talked to jaycar, they said that the LEDs like that needed a resistor or something when going into a car. I am not that savvy with electronics so I dunno if this is true or not but I tried wiring up a resistor to one of those LEDs and it cannot fit back into the socket.
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Hey guys
Anyone done the HVAC replacement on their V7 - V9 WRX or STI. I have done all the cluster, floor, keyring etc in purple but the HVAC ones are really weird.
I have attached some photos of what they are. For all the other bulbs, it was just t5 wedge bulbs but for these they are very different.
If anyone has done them please let me know what you did!
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5 hours ago, Gripless said:
I like @Andy_Mac plan of new short block and add forged pistons.
selling rebuilding what is left left depends on how it dies. Also how soon you catch it.
I got my new motor for $1500. Sold as blown but it was only worn turbo and wastegate that was faulty. Otherwise it was clean and tidy.
My stock motor had one bearing go and the last guy paid $5k to get that rebuilt correctly. Actually I maybe selling that soon with 30k km on it.
Oh 1,500 is allgood for an engine and I assume STI engine as well?
So if I bought for example a used EJ205 engine if mine blew, how much would I be looking at roughly in that case to get it on the road again including replacing all the oil pump, seals and cooler.
5 hours ago, Loren said:Or you could buy a running wrecker motor and pull it apart and refresh at your leisure... and then hopefully by the time your motor goes... you have a drop in replacement.
If your motor does not blow... you have a motor up your sleeve to sell if you decide to sell the car.
That's potentially a lot of money sitting around in your garage doing nothing though... might be better in an investment fund.
Haha that sounds like they are both good points. Thanks a lot for all the info tho I definitely feel like I understand the options more!
Thanks everyone for the replies! I definitely feel like I understand the options much better!!
5 hours ago, boon said:Part the car out, or buy a $2k wrecker motor and cross your fingers.
Converting to anything STI is going to be a very expensive journey.
Can an EJ207 be dropped into WRX easily?
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Thanks everyone for the responses really appreciate it
11 hours ago, Loren said:I have used a new sti short block in the past.
Also rebuilt once and in the process of doing that again.
The first motor I blew was a stock standard v5 sti motor... so the replacement sti short block was a no brainer for me.
The second motor had forged internals... so rebuilding is the only option really. Forged crate motors are way way too expensive.
5k is not realistic for either of theses options. If you are doing everything properly and using a mechanic... up to 10k is more realistic.
Wowsers that is a ton of money haha! At that point I'd rather part the car and just buy an STI.
But if I had an STI already it would be a different story. Is that similar prices for WRX short blocks or getting crate motors? Would be around 10k?
5 hours ago, boon said:Part the car out, or buy a $2k wrecker motor and cross your fingers.
Converting to anything STI is going to be a very expensive journey.
Ah ok so you don't reckon getting new short blocks etc is worth?
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1 minute ago, WRX300 said:
Facepalm
Wait why facepalm? I was genuinely wondering what others had done and if they could maybe offer some advice on things that worked well, didn't work well etc?
I didn't mean it to be a stupid question I was genuinely curious?
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Hey guys
Seems like there is a huge avenue of lines to take when your engine goes boom after I did some reading.
Just seeing what others out there have done and based on their experiences what they would/wouldn't recommend?
I assume it also has to do with how the engine blows as well that will determine your approach?
I have not blown my engine but it is getting up there in KMs and is running 311bhp and while I do look after it, I am aware it could go at any moment.
Even if it doesn't for a while, I'd rather gain knowledge on what to do and what options there are anyway rather than something happening and then scrambling around trying to sort something while I don't have a car haha.
So yeah, Rebuild? Replace with used longblock? Buy new Shortblock off PBMS? Dropping in an STI engine instead? Other options? What should you usually budget in the case this does happen? 5k?
Thanks all!
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On 24/08/2021 at 5:12 PM, coolstibro said:
Hi everyone,
I was looking to purchase the valve cover reseal kit from Subaru for my bro’s 05 legacy non turbo as I’ve found a bit of oil in the spark plug hole.
tried calling winger Greenlane but I think they’re closed due to level 4 restrictions currently.
Anyone know any legit places I could try source this part?
From memory I think it’s $91 + gst for each side.thanks guys
Hey bro same boat can't get some OEM stuff for my service. Luckily it was only 1 thing and fairly minor but they said their suppliers can't get things atm.
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On 31/07/2021 at 7:41 AM, Loren said:
Yes the strut, shock and spring are one unit. You need to buy a new strut and swap over the spring and top hat... and if the new strut doesn't come with bump stops,
then put those on too. I have no idea what spec shocks you have in your car.
You don't really need an special tools for this work apart from spring compressors... I don't think you should attempt it though.
I suggest that you ask them for a breakdown of costs, then you know what you are pay for parts and labour... I'd say it's only 3 to 4 hours work,
but the dealers tend to charge for more labour than they need. Ask them if a wheel alignment is included in their quote too.
Just a quick question. I got my car serviced a few weeks ago and needed new rear shocks and had no rear bump stops so basically rear suspension is shot.
Had it booked in to do this work tomorrow but since we have been plunged in Lockdown unable to get the work done.
I have avoided driving my car as much as possible but I notice that every time I drive over bumps in the road my back goes "thud" so I know the suspension is pretty bad.
I'm really pissed as the other day I hit a HUGE pothole where I scraped my exhaust (already posted about that), and I hadn't driven car since (lockdown). Had to drive today and I felt like the car just felt a bit "cheaper." If felt like it was thudding/clunking worse even with smaller bumps.
Just wondering what things would bear the brunt of the assault on hitting a massive pothole if the shocks are bad. I assume control arms and ball joints primarily?
I had a look and can't see any damage to them but what else should I look out for that could be causing this worse ride? is there anything specific I should get the workshop to look at when they do the work.
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Bro that exhaust looks mad! Mine comes out on an angle now and I love it! I can see literally most of the muffler and it just looks aggressive and wicked.
Honestly bro I would not change your exhaust it looks bloody awesome!
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Hey guys
Hit a big pothole today (stupid road) and because I need new rear shocks and my bump stops have gone (they were getting replaced next week), my car completely bottomed out badly and I heard the dreaded sound of the exhaust smashing against the road.
I jacked car up and checked and it scraped on the midpipe right on the lip of the resonator.
It took a few gouges out but it seems like there is no hole and no dent.
There is also a VERY slight dent in the muffler at the outer edge. Again, just a few gouges and a small dent probably the width of a finger tip and only very slightly caved in.
Based on that, as long as it is not leaking and sounds the same, just carry on? To me it seems just surface but I am really pissed at myself for 1. not seeing the pothole and 2. Because this was a nice new exhaust I have JUST put on.
I'm just wondering who else has scraped/hit their exhaust and had to replace it and what were the obvious signs.
First 2 photos are the muffler damage.
Last 2 are the Resonator damage.
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I probably wouldn't go from a 3 inch downpipe into a 2.5 inch Catback. There is conflicting evidence as with anything but if you research I think there is something about increased backpressure compared to just running 2.5 inch straight through.
Also something about the gases expanding and contracting etc with some people doing dyno runs with this setup and getting worse results compared to either 2.5 inch through or 3 inch through.
I just would leave it with 3 inch personally or redo the whole system 2.5.
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2 hours ago, Bugle said:
I'd had similar warnings from folk re going too short with the shift kit, synchro needs time to do its synchro thing, go too short and they wear out/dont shift well, hence sticking with OEM
That doesn't make sense as the only thing that changes is the throw length, the gears are still engaging in the exact same way that doesn't change.
THe only way synchros would be affected would be from too fast or aggressive shifting, which is not to do with the short throw shifter but to do with the driver.
20 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:Tony has always been against aftermarket ones. Supposedly the different positioning can cause them to not sit quite right and wreck synchro's or something like that. Could be that that is only the case with the more extreme models but it was enough to deter me from taking that route.
That is a driver thing not a short shifter thing. The only thing that changes is the throw the gears still engage the same. If you are smashing it into gear or shifting too fast then yes, can damage things but you can do the same on stock OEM throw.
On 6/08/2021 at 6:14 PM, Loren said:I had a GFB short shifter on mine... was terrible... you lose precision... can't tell when it's in gear properly... can 't tell what gear it's in... can easily change into the wrong gear. Hated it.
Can you elaborate on how you lose precision? Most reviews I read and watch on YT with a Kartboy/Bushing combo or CObb/Bushing Combo speak about how much more precise and great the shifter feels.
On 6/08/2021 at 7:27 PM, Timmah said:I have this in my WRX: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/shifter-and-bushing-combos/kar-kb-002-wrx-combo-kartboy-short-shifter-and-bushing-combo
Love it.
Nice! Yeah I think I am going to get Cobb because being able to adjust the shift and lever is just such a great feature to pass up on.
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Hey guys!
I am planning on getting a Short Shifter and bushing combo. I was pretty much 100% sold on Cobb as I prefer the stock shifter height and the Kartboy is lower and I like the adjustability.
However...
After looking on Cobb's website it says the throw is adjustable down to a 25% reduction?
I was reading heaps of reviews and it was saying that the Cobb could adjust to as much or even lower than the Kartboy which is at 40%?
I'm now a bit confused and not sure I would want the Cobb at only 25% reduction but then I don't know if I like the kartboy lever being shorter.
I really like the stock height of the shifter so the Cobb being able to be a short shifter at stock height is appealing compared to the Kartboy.
Also as a side note, anyone know if JDM V7 WRXs have A short or narrow barrell shift fork? Might save me having to open up the shifter.
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Was looking a slowly switching over to poly mounts but after researching lots and watching some videos it looks like the vibrations and NVH can be quite rough for a daily driver. These were engine mounts I was looking at in the video so I assume that is one of the worst offenders.
I am currently needing to replace my shifter bushings, steering rack bushings, rear shocks and front top hats.
I am looking at getting either a Kartboy or Cobb SHort shifter (have not decided yet), and everyone is recommending to get the front and rear stay bushings in poly to go with it. ANyone done that? I heard the trans will whine when doing that?
Also, I was looking at doing for the moment the steering rack bushings and the sway bar/end links in poly.
As far as I am aware, the swaybar and endlinks will not cause any increase in NVH so those seem worth doing.
Anyone done poly on steering rack? Worth doing or keep stock?
I also am quite interested in the Group N Hardened rubber mounts.
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3 minutes ago, Subru said:
I feel much more heatsoak after sitting in slow traffic than after pulls. With pulls at least there is decent airflow though the intercooler.
Heat soak is mostly just annoying because it feels slower than normal. Your just getting less boost due to higher temps. If the motor ist happy it has ways of dealing with it such as pulling timing.
They always feel great on a cool winters night haha.
Haha yeah I think I experienced heat soak once. It was a super hot day and had been in bumper bumper traffic for ages. I then went to do a pull (stupidly it was early days of owning the car), and I was barely hitting 6 psi. I got such a fright but went home, let car cool down, drove again an it was fine :).
Sweet thanks man I was just wanting to make sure I was looking after the engine as it has done 210,000km hehe. From now on I'll definintely wait around 30 seconds between pulls. I may even get an IAT sensr/gauge installed post intercooler so I can monitor intake temps :).
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1 hour ago, Loren said:
If it's not overheating, keep up the beating.
Haha I love that! Yeah this new tune really opened up the car. I had a custom retune done on stock exhaust in February.
I just had a turboback exhaust and retune done and even though I gained no torque and only 10hp, the car just FEELs so much more responsive it is crazy! The exhaust just sounds, feels and responds so much nicer with the higher flow cat in there now.
I am only at 257whp and it feels so damn fun!
1 hour ago, Subru said:However far apart the traffic lights are is the correct answer 😄
Nah I'm sure someone has done some data logging on this for how long IATs get back to normal but I wouldn't worry about it. If it feels slow then it's heat soaked and you can tell.
Ah sweet! So if it was still hitting max boost and pulling hard then IATs would have been fine and engine would be all good?
So basically, you'd know if it was heat soaked as power would diminish??
I was doing these pulls at night in cold temperature. I love doing that as the cold air really makes the car perform even better compared to a hot day haha.
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Just wondering how long most of ya wait between pulls when you take your car out for a spirited drive?
I was only thinking about this the other day when I did about 8 back to back pulls with only maybe 10 seconds between them and since car has been retuned it feels like it flies. I thought that our cars would be able to handle this no problem but was doing some research and some people were saying to wait longer as doing back to back pulls lead to higher intake temps and heat soak and eventually detonation? I assume the vehicle would pull timing if it started to detonate from heat soak etc?
So yeah, if you do decide to go for a spirited drive, how long between pulls should you wait?
Or is doing the consecutive pulls fine as long as it is not all the time haha. I only do that once a week or so.
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2 hours ago, Loren said:
Why do people go to the dealership? I don't understand.
Though 1200 to 1500 doesn't sound all the bad.
The shocks you use will have a big influence on the cost I'd say.
I only go to the deaership here because they serviced the car before I got it and have good records of everything so far. Also havn't found a new mechanic to go to as of yet but I understand dealers are expensive usually.
Good to know that that cost doesn't sound too bad.
In terms of the Shocks, i know there is a difference between struts and shocks but was hoping you or someone else could help me with understanding these.
WHat exactly do Bugeyes have? They have Struts right? Not separate Shocks
Is this a repair you can do yourself if you have the tools and a little knowledge or best left for mechanics?
And if I decided to at least source the parts myself, any recommendations on what to replace with.
Thanks Loren!
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Hey guys
Just failed wof on the following:
Front suspesnsion Top hats Split
Vehicle has no rear bump stops
Rear shocks need replacing
Steering rack bushes need replacing.
What is a reasonable cost including parts and labour to do this? I was quoted between $1,200 - $1,500 for this work at a subaru dealership.
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Car stuttering a lot after bad hill start
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Ok Ill remember that for next time. Havn't done a hill start in a while like anything was a little rusty and it was a big hill. I didn't mean to lug it I might not have actually Lugged it I just basically took off and then them rpms dropped really low and kind of felt like it although it wasn't actually shaking so that is probably a good sign.
It could be driver error but Im pretty sensitive to this stuff and know when soemthing feels different and the car would never do this while warm.
Alright Ill keep on keeping on cheers