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R.D

Auckland Member
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Posts posted by R.D

  1. i tried to look under the car, the drain bolt area looked a bit wet, but it couldnt be leaking from there aye? it would have to be seriously seriously loose for that too happen? and i know it was put on tight.

    also, when the cars completely cold, is 'ideal' on the low mark, then when warm, on the full mark??

  2. what does happen if u overfill oil/ trans fluid??

    this morning checked trans fluid, was low as (changed it a week ago), so topped her up, dip stick was coming out with diff readings every time. Added some more, still seemed too low. took her for a drive, BOOM shes fill alright.

    Does it just mean it will take longer for the fluid to heat up pretty much?

    cheersss

  3.  STi-TypeR said:

    If its got the short RA box it will be doing around 3200k at the 100km point

    as with the motor, get a code?? Or post some photos up so we can have a look

    hmm, mine (non RA sti) sits at 3000rpm at 100. Def not 3200, but 3200rpm doesnt seem too 'short ratio' does it??? if that helps lol

  4.  ReubenH said:

    3 things. Those cars are in japan, those are the japanese prices for the cars, pretty ordinary.

    2nd, the $ value is US$'s, so times it by about 1.5 to get $'s NZ

    3rd, that's before shipping and certification.

    you can change the dollars into NZ dollars on the right. Still cheap as!

    but say that 3rd link, in NZ dollars its 2.3 grand. Plus 1.5-2k (shipping etc etc). Thats a pretty mint wrx for around 4grand all up. that is a sweet deal.

  5. Due to sitting in traffic with nothing to do but stare at the gauges, i have grown curious. just wondering if oil temp changes much between cars, not just subarus but all different types, or is it more of a general 'optimal' temp kinda deal. Once the oil as fully warmed up, is the temp it sits at (roughly), affected by the weight of the oil?

    Mine sits just under 90 most of the time.

    Also, dont want to start a horrrible 'what oil should i use' thread, but what is the weight that most aucklanders would go for in the rex?

    Cheers :)

  6. A while after getting my car, i noticed sometimes when i stomp the pedal down to where it belongs, the boost jumps to around 18psi. It normally holds around 14psi~. untouched. But on occasion it jumps to around 18 and then slowly decreases, but doesnt really make it back to the usual 14. (it might in say 4th/5th gear, but when going that fast I generally dont study the gauges haha).

    Its fairly stock, i think i read that bigger diameter pipes from the turbo can cause spikes? But mine is cat-back, so cant be that?

    Im guessing it has to be a leak, cause it definitely doesn't go harder when it jumps to 18pound. I think id say a decrease in power, but if it was a leak somewhere, wouldn't it be happening nearly all of the time, if not always.

    Wat do ya'll doctors suspect ??

    Cheers!!

  7. you did say "best"

    Trans/front diff Motul 300

    http://www.motul.co.nz/product_line_up/gear_box/gear01.html

    Rear diff Motul 90 PA

    http://www.motul.co.nz/product_line_up/gear_box/gear10.html

    Will cost just under $200 for the needed 4L for trans, i gave up there coz im poor, guessing the 1 litre of rear diff stuff will be around $40 as well.

    Mag and turbo can order this in for you.

    Not from personal experience, just from hours of research online.

    If your like me and not keen on spending ~$250 bucks on juice.

    Castrol Multitrax 75w90 was like $40 for the whole 4L

    and then i went with Valvoline HP Gear Oil LS90 for R.Diff $17?

    Got both from supercheap auto.

    Just make sure whatever you buy has GL-5 rating and the recommended weight is 75w90. May want to go bit Thicker if using on track, too hold up to higher temps.

  8. I wanted to do exact thing as you, except the previous owner put in a head unit that is wider than the standard size (why would you make such a thing!!) its a piece of ass Chinese tv player, that spells words wrong LOL. absolute trash. anyway, its stopping me pulling out the plastic panel thing coz they cut into the panel.

    I removed the hand brake cover, so i could remove the gear stick cover, but i dont know if you actually need to do that, just lets you get under it a bit more. I was pretty aggressive since i have a whole spear stereo/AC dash panel, But it popped out (until my retarded tv restricted it) with a flat head screw driver to me, just try do it gentle and not to pop the whole thing out from one location, else i believe the tabs can be damaged. Once that surrounding cover is out, you should see screws in which you can attack. and all should be well.

    Oh also, two screws hiding behind the cup holder just above the AC, again not sure if those are needed in or out, but hey why not haha. And pull the coin tray out, there are screws facing up inside there, i THINK they dont affect it at all. Some pro will fix up my poor attempt at helping haha.

  9. it does not, it is your more general items lol.

    But true, im sure liquids have to be the biggest mark ups in the world. e.g that 4L of motul 300 i went to buy. $400. They would pump that crap out in the factory for nothing a litre. Now that is some serious mark up-age

    edit: just got the fluids. yay. Btw Are there any other ways (for free) than havin to buy that lil pump to get the diff fluid in?

  10. when i rang up to change from National Auto Club to club auto, i got confused and told the lady im going to be changing to auto club? she was like HUH? ohhh u mean club auto darling? i was like yeahh! she had a little giggle then explained how its owned by the same man. He created NAC and then went on and created Auto club.

  11. ah u did too, i guess i was put off by the '80w' figure, been glued to a 75w90 haha.

    haha the old mark up, cant say where i work, but we crank up to the 900% mark ups hahah. poor customers.

    Going to the west gate supercheap/recpo combo now. Lets hope they have this in stock.

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