nickch

yeah.. gonna get my reflashed once i get all the plans done..

never really had a good look at which gear pulled how much boost.. hence why I said 'iirc' but the bugeye wrxs peak at around 13-14psi... STis boost quite a fair bit more..

IIRC, I've pulled a 11-12 psi on 2nd before..

didn't the alarm go off? (just going by the trademe post saying its alarmed)

word on the street is that there might be one coming soon..

the Phillips Blue Visions are pretty good having had a set on my old car. the Hella/Narva bulbs are a hell lot better than no name brands. It just depends on your budget really.. But do not expect too much out of the those bulbs. They may advertise that they give you the HID look but prepare to be disappointed.

Not sure what bulbs are in the GCs, but if you know it's H4, then yeah, they will work.. Just don't get HIDs..

I do prefer the stiff and rigid feel of the GD chassis though.. But yeah.. I reckon the GCs still look pretty good even how old the model is and so much lighter as well..

Oh! You probably won't do much by removing the resonator then, if its still there that is. Most would remove the resonator to fit a duct to get cold air to the filter as well as fabricating a cold air box around the filter. And you should be able to hear the woosh from the stock BOV. If thats not enough, then you'll need an aftermarket one.

I didn't have to. But it would depend on the size of your wheels among other things. I have the factory 16"s on mine.. IIRC, I did have to jack the car up a bit..

most likely.. same intake config.. Just full lock your wheels. Take off the wheel arch covers.. IIRC, there were 2 bolts to undo to slide the box out from under the guard.. i'd recommend looking at fitting some pipe from the airbox into the guard, because the snorkle/resonator extends right up to the airbox.. you'll probably want to block off the gap where the snorkle entered the guard from the engine bay.. to avoid hot engine air from getting into the guard.. on the V7 wrx, there are vents right next to the spotlights that would allow cold air to be rammed into the guard.. and I have a 90deg PVC elbow that goes from the airbox down to the same level as the vents..

http://www.google.co.nz/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=desnorkling+wrx This link should get you going on how to remove the box.. You'll most likely need to get access to it from under the wheel arches. I'd say keep the pipe on as long as you're running your stock BOV. If you do change, if you have a full atmospheric venting one, then you will have to block it off. If you get a full/part recirculating one, then you should be able to fit the hose onto the aftermarket BOV easy. ie. GFB Hybrid WRX

was suspecting that.. but wasn't too sure... ^^^ what he said too..

The pipe is the recirculating pipe and plumbs back air into the intake (just before the turbo compressor).. I think what your mate might've meant was to de-snorkle the intake system. There is a resonator box that sits in the intake system before your filter box whose purpose is to quieten down intake charge noise as well as the hiss from the turbo charger. Removing this also improves your intake flow by a reasonable amount. This will make your turbo whine louder and make the 'woosh' from the factory recirc valve a bit more audible However, if it really is the recirculating pipe you are removing, you will want to block this pipe or close it off. It will make it louder, but the valve will sound quite s*** I will assume as its not a proper smoothed outlet Probably not something I'd recommend.. Getting an aftermarket blowoff valve is all good as long as you block the recirculating hose off! In terms of side-effects, it is said to cause your engine to run richer between gear changes. People have had different results.. some don't notice it, some end up with mean backfire between changes..

Check out http://www.dealextreme.com/c/car-led-light-bulbs-712 Cheap LED bulbs.. takes about 2-3 weeks to get to you though.. Can't complain given the price and free shipping!

it happens to a lot of other cars too. never knew why it did it. silent observations of mine have seen people getting into reverse then back into 1 to rectify..

don't go with a capacitor! look at upgrading your battery, Optima (at least a red should do it). Or in extreme cases, upgrade your alternator. Most likely alternator not supplying enough current to power your system..

Passed through Taupo on Saturday for a fuel stop. Pissing down with rain and a marathon going on. Made me wonder if it is always that happening on the weekends?!

Hi all, As the track day is coming in just over a month, I'm trying to sort out my brakes. Car is Bugeye V7, non-STi. (so 2 pot fronts and 1 pot rears) So far on the list: * DBA 9000 front rotors * Front pads: DS2000 * Stock rear rotors * Rear pads: ???? * Motul RBF 600 fluid I seem to have most basis covered apart from the rear pads. I'm wondering if it is really worth it to get high performance pads for the rears for the general track day use, or would I be okay with standard pads? Can someone recommend me any decent pads for this current setup? Bearing in mind that purchasing the other parts on that list has already put a hole in my pocket and would like the most economic but still usable solution. Cheers, Nick

probably be better then whats in there now and maybe they will know the issue and how to avoid it or fix it lol.. come on.. we like a challenge.. rather than washing a grain of sand with a hose..

did the central locking problem go away right after the new battery was fitted? did you have any electrical devices installed in the car recently? can you explain what sort of problem the central locking was giving you?

I still regard Cusco stuff as top of the line. So seeing blue and chrome in your engine would have a larger impact on me than the CF STi one.

I've had a look last night. It appears that the boot is secured to the gear knob with a plastic locking ring. Am hoping the duracon knobs have the grooves needed to fit the gear lever boot back on.. Will post pictures when I get around to changing it.

Hi all, Am replacing my stock gear knob with the Duracon STi gear knob. I was just wondering how you'd keep the stock gear shift boot when replacing the gear knob as it seems the boot is pinned to the stock gear knob.

nuffsaid