1989RS

took the motor out today so ill take the other sides camshafts off as well so i will be able to put solid lifters throughout, or just upgrade to a later model heads.

Thats what i was thinking, but i rang genuine parts and they sell the lifters with the springs. Also i have pulled apart a set of reconditioned heads i have lying around and all the lifters out of those heads are solid. It left me pretty stumped.

Last week my hack of a rally car started to tick excessively (has just had an engine oil flush, new oil, filter and a good dose of MBL-8). There has been no lifter noise at all for 2 months after this service was done but all of a sudden the lifter noise started. I tried to do another oil change and adding new MBL-8 but nothing fixed it. While it was quiet at work I removed the cam shafts and remove the lifters on the side that was noisy. The problem is there are 2 different types of lifters in the head, one is solid and the other has indent for the spring and the spring sits on a washer. There are 3 solid lifters and 5 "sprung" lifters. I would like to know which lifters should be in there and what ones should be replaced. Thanks for the help

seems like a joke, im a mechanic and have never had a problem with burning my hands with hot oil. All you need to do is get your hand away fast enough to make sure you don't get your hand covered in oil. You could buy much more useful stuff with $50.

if you start the car let it idle then take the injector plugs off one by one the plug that you take off and makes no difference will be the one that is stuffing it up

the same thing happened to me putting the yellows in for the first time pinched the middle o-ring it ran like crap take number 3 injector out and check the seals. Also try get some contact cleaner on the plug and on the injector terminals

sometimes clutch specialists if you by a new clutch kit they will get it skimmed for free if thats any help

I think that the reason people destroyed their house was just an example of how many people are getting annoyed at their pride and joys being stolen and hacked to pieces for parts. People have obviously had enough of it so people are retaliating which in my eyes is fair enough. Maybe this might need to happen to a few more thieves so they start to get the idea.

the codes are 14 15 16 17 all injector but the car is running fine probably better than it ever has

so i got it working it was a small break in the wire but not the problem is the check engine light stays on im going to try and reset the ecu one more time but if this dosent work what could be bringing up the codes

couldnt be a blown fuse could it

no have not done this yet the spark plugs are about 3 months old as well as the new genuine coils i will try this thought how do you check if its pulsing at the ecu

does anyone know what the resistance should be for the wire and injector could it maybe a faulty earth

got another injector off a mate with good seals put that in also took the spark plug out and made sure it was dry. the same problem occured. thinking it may be the ecu not working properly or something has fried inside it. any other ideas

ill try some different seals then and get back to you thanks

got the ecu off Cuddas he said it worked fine on his car

i took it out and put it on the bench and put 12V of voltage through it and it seems to tick fine and spit fuel

Today i have installed a TD05 and set of yellow injectors and a chipped ecu to run yellow injectors and a green afm in my BC5 legacy. Car was running fine before i put the ecu and injectors in. now it is bringing up fault code 14 15 16 17. It runs with a miss and if you remove the 3rd cylinder injector plug it does not change how it is running, but makes the car stall if you take any other injector plug off. what could be the cause of this. Thanks

on RA-Jays car some one had tried to do this ended up frying the ecu grounds and also would send it into limp dick mode doing about 4 pounds of boost and running like crap

no

otherwise a turbo shop can drill urs out to vf30 size

You need to make sure you use vf30 bango oil feed bolts or else the factory wrx oil flow will not be enough

he is running a in cabin boost controller so its just a spare piece of hose coming from the standard boost controller

im just loving my new coils its a new car

i have one you can have it for $300