1989RS

dont have any of those tools i could just disconnect the battery but i want to know if it will actually fix my choke problem

My choke has not been working the whole time my car has been running im wondering if its my faulty ics valve or something else. Also when the car is just idleing and slightly tap the throttle the revs drop by about 500rpm and then pick up what could this be. and last but not least when your driving at and sitting at about 3000rpm and i put my foot down to pick up speed the car starts to pink. I have made sure all the timing is lined up and correct and i have been running 98 bp ultimate every since it first started running the car in. any help would be great

found out what it was. took it to a sparky and while i was helping take the steering shroud off we noticed that the cables that were connected at the end of the ignition barrel was loose. So with that tightened up she now starts prefectly

how do you reset the ecu

no the valve is off a manual gt and my car is manual so messed up

but would it make a difference

I replace my ICS valve today because the one that came with my engine did not work (you had to move the top magnet to adjust the idle speed). The one i replaced it with is off a 1991 GT legacy. now the engine constantly stays at 3000rpm when cold and when hot/ i have made sure there are no air leaks that i have found. Im wondering if i need the exact one for my car as its a 1989 RS and if so could some one give me the original number on the sticker so i can get one

yeah ill use less next time But what happened today was i was having a look at the electrics and under the hood there is a small black box where the original exciter wire is connected to but then connected to the this black box there is an earth, a cable to the battery and another one that goes to the starter motor. in theory if disabled the black box and connected the original exciter wire to the starter motor it should work. But it didnt still nothing happening. then looked at the ignition and there was nothing that seemed out of place. so what next

true ill have a try tomorrow

while the gear box and starter were out i to the top cap off and checked the starter bushes they are fine but also the car can start if you bridge the exciter wire with the earth it starts so im pretty sure its juat a dumb arse trying to modify a perfectly fine car but how could it test if it is

Hey guys in about to lose my rag at my car finally got it running but it only starts when it want to no matter how many times you turn the key it wont crank over or make any noise im wondering if its an immobileiser because there is a small red button near the steering wheel but im not sure does anyone else have this problem??????

Ive already had 8 or 9 cars in the 2 years that i have been able to drive (and 2 motorbikes). But the diff seals are all done now at a cost of 49.59 for the side seals and big o rings (its good to be in the trade ) thanks for the help guys

na just sucks being 17 on minimum wage trying to buy car parts every week oh well the car is close to being up and running now just need these seals exhaust welded and wof and reg then shes all go

how much and where could i get a chip upgrade ( i know how to fix cars but not to much on the performance side :-\)

would be keen for a nice long drive but have to run the bugger in and get the exhaust welded on so i can get warrent and then rego so i would if i could

Does anyone on CS have good experience with welding up exhaust pipes properly as pit stop and a few other places want to charge heaps just pm me if you could help in the auckland area

Looks like genuine will be the only way bugger time to get charged $30 each side

does anyone know of a good place in auckland where you can get your car tuned. as i have now gone to a 2.5 straight through exhaust i want the car to run at its best 24/7 thanks for the help

does any one know where to get the rear diff seals from im sure i could get them genuine but they might have to import them have tried everywhere else and no luck please help

would it be easier with the radiator out or does it not really not matter

Just wondering if its easier to put the motor in with the gear box attached or to put the gearbox in by itself and the motor in afterwards ???

do you know if it will fit a gt block as thats the reason i dont have one

does anyone have an rs that they are wreaking

Oh sweet as where can i get one of them from is it worth doing it

does the oil cooler come straight off the oil pump as the 2 holes on the oilp pump have been blocked up and would it be a smart idea to get a oil cooler ???